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dangerranger1983 build


I would leave it if you are not having any problems, unless you are running into fuel starvation while wheeling.
 
Problems are it doesn't get up and go like it did, like it's getting to little fuel but when the secondaries open, it adds like it is getting the fuel it needs to operate correctly. But also 8 mpg hurts to as it limits how far I can travel to wheel due to fuel pieces. I have had vapor lock twice, when warmed up it has hard starts. 4th gear is now a joke and rarely can I hit it and if I do, I can't try to accelerate like 5mph without it chugging telling me to down shift.

But due to circumstances, I can no longer work on my truck where I have, because my parents have lost their house, the FI conversion is on the back burner but will hopefully be fine inn the next few years and from now till then I will do what up do best and gather parts for next to nothing to keep this build ad much of a budget build as possible.

Living in an apartment, I can't do much to the truck by do what I can to optimize the carb set-up and do as suggested, don't do anything until I have a fuel starvation issue when on the trails, if I have one at all.

Right now my goal is to get it back to being 4wd. All I have to do is get my front shaft shortened and finish the trans xmember for the clearance needed to install the shaft.

An np205 world have been much easier for clearance issues dye to it isn't as wide and being as close to the frame, at least that's what I'm getting.

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Got the over flow hooked up, figured I would make another video of her idling. Fuel pressure is lower then I thought so may bypass the regulator, probably why it's acting like it's starving for fuel under a load and at speed when I get on it. Also the fan turns and off now that I filled it with a gallon of anti freeze, that may have been causing my issues though I need to check it after it cools off to make sure what the level is at.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qj8f_07hOj8&feature=youtube_gdata_player



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Let the engine cool off, went outside and put my finger in the rad cap hole and couldn't feel fluid so I guess I need more (was dark out and didn't bring my phone with a light on it.

Lesson here, have your over flow hooked up to the tank so that your fluid doesn't get puked all over the road and cost you money to replace it.

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Dang at least you caught it before you over heated the motor!
 
My last all day driving run made it puke out to this point and that was one of the hottest days the year too, been good since. A ranger meet that I went to back last spring, my fuse blew on my cooling fan and I was driving all day without a fan and didn't know it, I want to say the engine easily got to 230. Good news is most of the driving was highway to and from so there was plenty of air movement through the rad.

Just topped the rad off again and I think it is now full. I know the engine isn't using any or leaking it.

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The guy that was giving me what efi stuff he could found out his brother took the stuff and sold. Well his brother is parting out his 306 and the guy got these off his brother and gave them to me for free. Ford racing 9mm wires. But before I pit them on the truck, I will be wrapping the headers and getting wire wraps so that I don't burn through wires again.

20131213_232928.jpg


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Went to the jy with my buddy and found these. They are made of metal but have never seen another ranger with them.

20131223_160734.jpg


Also got this off a mustang that was there, one had one fender do I took the one it had. I will mount it to the tail gate.

20131223_165745.jpg


Also find a SHO Taurus by accident when I opened up the hood.

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Now for something I didn't know and don't know if they will fit a ranger with a 5.0 swap and clear the frame. Factory tube headers that are on the Lincoln town cars with the 5.0.

20131223_142104.jpg


Other then that, waiting for header tape to arrive the mail so I can put my new plug wires on.


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those are logs. they can be made to fit ok.

sn's and the irs thundercats have a similar setup.


i threw away most of my efi 5.0 stuff when i moved ahwile back. i though about mailing it to you but was pressed for time at the end.


that engine is fawked up at 8 mpg with those little tires.


something is not stirring the kool-aid there....how many miles on it now??
 
Reason for 8mpg....three low gearing. I'm running a full-size drive train with axles geared for smaller trucks, I should be running 2.73s or whatever d44s and 9inch rear ends in the full-size trucks have. Also my fuel pressure is at 5.5 on the regulator and the pressure gauge says 4.5...there's one problem. I'm having to push the skinny pedal down more and longer in my low gears to get up to my max speed of now 65mph when I was easily able to do 75mph earlier this year. So I'm going to bypass the regulator and run straight from the pump, since other guys on here said I don't need the regulator with the pump they and I are using to run their 5.0.

As far as miles in things...the frame and cab shell, 250k...the rest take a wild guess.

Moving in a month to a place with a garage so I will now be able to work on her and it has a concrete floor and work bench.

May nab me a set of those log type headers, it will give me better clearance for plug wires. Bad news, no HO efi engines that I had time to look for out there.

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355 gears are good for a 302, 1 to 1 trans and 31's. though i would rather have 410 and a aod trans or m5od r1.


10-12 in that tiny little thing would suck. 8-11 was what i got with 456 gears, 35's and 5500-7500 pounds with work tools/gear. and 115 mph cruise capacity in very short order.

with what you have i dont know if factory efi would bring it past 10 or 11. be worth a try i guess. i am thinking bank fire sd just to see....:dunno:
 
I'm running 32s, 3.73s and my fourth gear is a 1to1. I would like to go 3.08s since I know (I think) d30s and Ford 8.8s came them, need regear, just swap out axles since are a dime a dozen.

If I had the money, it would get a small body lift to clear a zf5 and np205.

Also a few of my spark plug wires are toasted due to header contact and arcing to them but those and that taste will be fixed soon enough. Other then that she starts right up and can make those mud tires talk to me, something my 2.8 couldn't do, not even on a rain soaked road.

I can only imagine what my mpgs will be after I get my front drive shaft put in since I have alive at all times axle and will be spinning that shaft.

I do wonder if the almost constant electric draw from the alternator due to my fan staying on most of the time when it doesn't need to be on.

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how many amps is the fan? why is it on?


most electric fans draw less power then any full OFF clutch fan. you would need dual fans to match a properly working viscous clutch fan fully off.




i think 308 gears and 32's would hurt economy in town significantly. you have a 302 with stock stroke correct? not known for low end torque for a reason. it obviously is not running even close to ideal. i dont remember what cam you have. i guess 8 mpg may be all it can do but i have a hard time with that on a tiny empty truck.


though if most of your driving is at 60-70 mph i would wager 308 gears would be good.
 
All driving is in town with her. I'm in third gear by 25mph and till 55mph. The engine is a stock 91 out of a grand marque but has had a mustang HO cam put in it. It has low end torque. I will say my trans choice wasn't the best for mileage, but it will out live me.

I need to get some e7 heads on her maximize what I have.

The Taurus fan is only ran on low and they pull 30amps I'm told. It's on because where the temp sensor is, top rad hose neck. To fix it, it needs be relocated to the bottom hose.


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Header wrap came in the mail today. Now to wrap where the plug wires want to come in contact with the headers so that when I go to install my 9mm wires I won't burn them up. I will be double wrapping the areas to be safe.

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