dangerranger1983 build

[bobbywalter]

with that little trans you may be able to use a k shaft, but i think it will be short...likely have to get a long slip end...7 or 9 inch to use one.


i looked around but cant find any pictures of my back skid.

currently i run a diagonal trans k-member and had to scrap my old tee skid system from the 302.


that is a JEEP 208 in those pics. i currently run the ford208 flat bellied, so i am cocked way over, but the jeep case allows to run the engine centered. theres no way in hell i would run a t case without fixed yokes. i was about to buy a fixed yoke kit for my 241 so i could run the engine more centered but like you i choose to limit myself sometimes...and the kit would have violated my 400 dollar to swap in a 6.5 diesel rule....

damn these self imposed limits


you dont want a diagonal k member...so you need to work with what ya got or potentially spend big coin comparatively.

its all part of the fun

 

[bobbywalter]

oh yeah.....its easy toput a fixed yoke on your 208....


i have some extra parts if you wish too.

 

[dangerranger83]

Just wondering how hard is it to convert to fixed? I saw fords with them at the jy but dont want to have to tear apart the transfercase to do it, but know it will have to. Thats one of those things that will have to wait awhile to do, need another vehicle first (baby is due any day and saving up plus hoping the call for full time is soon too).

My small trans weighs alot due to not being made out of aluminum.

My front shaft length is going to be 31 inches and my one that I got is 36 inches, measuring from eye center to eye center on the ujoints.

I'll get on my 3d modeling program tomorrow armed with some measurements and design the DOM one along with other designs that may make others shriek.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[bobbywalter]

probably an hour or so on the case. but if you made a new rear shaft already your fawked.

be easy to make up a nice k member with channel and the chop saw or some sq stock... probably a few hours.

36 in with the slip in its "centered position"?

31" is installed on truck length?


mine is 35" diff to case yoke installed and 39 i think stretched.

iirc 28 plus to 31 is some of the gms straight axles.

 

[dangerranger83]

The shaft needs to be 31 inches in the centered position for my truck.

Here's the limited space I'm an taking about...

Didn't get time to make any designs due to things always popping up on the weekends.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[dangerranger83]

Been thinking about the cross member and have come up with an idea that will not allow the truck do be down for any time while it's being built..in theory. It uses the other cross member as part of the design to help with the structure. When all finished all that week have to be done is the U part of my current one will be cut off and out of the way, while the trans is still bolted in.

Still keeps it all cheap but no down time for the truck.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[bobbywalter]

looking at the 241 type flanges i wonder if its possible to extend out to where a regular stock member will work fine.

i would consider re-situating things a bit. i am long in wheelbase so i would never dream of letting my t case down as far as you have. low belly keeps me as hi as possible.

you on 31's is like me on 35's off road.. all things suspension wise being equal.



we are the same at the rails for width to this point, and this is just my basic setup so you can definitely copy this with a foot shorter drivetrain.

the new skid system will be tied into the over rail bridging

this is all with a 3 in bodylift of course....


and in case you think i need a 3 in body lift with a 4l80 trans you may want to look at these.

so.


one of us building you a simple stout thing like i have....you drill a few holes.


done....

 

[bobbywalter]

and for me personally....no reason not to have the equal of a 1.5 to two inch body lift.

makes maintenance much easier...and easier means shit gets done on time.


almost a million miles body lifted, telling me that body lifts are bad is a piss waste of time....i fawked up every lift block at one point or another, but that is maintenance as well.

keep em tight, they will be alright.

 

[dangerranger83]

I was going to do a design like yours but because the spacing of my frame mounted for my long arms is so close to the transfercase, I can't...well sorta.

I need to quit being lazy and get measuring on a couple of things along with the weather corporating. I have some leaf spring mounts that I got years ago before my SAS from ballistic fab that I'm going to use for the outside frame mount cross member that I got for one side, the other will be cut at the limit of the arm mount, go up, then into the top part of the bottom of the rail and bolted, basically where the pictures of where I showed it on the arm mounts is where it's going to be.

Then I'm going to take that mount and attach it to the current one with some steel with first bolts, then weld. After that sorely take the bolt out of the driverside of the current mount to see if it saggs to much, if at all. If all goes as planned and everything holds, then I will cut the down hump part of that is blocking me from putting the shaft in.

In dumb terms for a mind picture, it's going to look like a backwards lower case h from underneath.

Like I said before, the truck will still be able to drive while doing this up you'll I test the one bolt being taken out. I will also have the outside mount on the driver side since it will be able to take a torqeing motion better from the weight of everything on just one mount.

It's out going too be ugly yes, but will work.

I wish I could have fit my transfer case in better but couldn't get the engine and trans to move over anymore plus I was getting less space as I turned everything for the passenger exhaust header to have a clear path past the frame too.

I was on a short time schedule to do this being my only vehicle and two weeks earlier to doing the swap, found out I was going to be a dad, which I'm going to be this weekend, can't believe 9 months have past already since then.

I think this project will be easier done then said.

Goal is to have it done before the ranger meet for my state, which is june 2nd.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[bobbywalter]

if you look, i can run captured with it sitting inside the rails as well, some of the other things i have in fitting/mock up that are collecting dust and cobwebs have it under the rails.

i have heavy 6 inch box that when split into basic angle iron would make some nice rail brackets that would go over your radius arm mounts and incorporate those bolts. then you would have a easy to fit center k member section on top of those where they would wrap around the rails and offer easy t case protection additions.

incorporate the two bolts and add one about where the t case is.

i think it would be a good start and easy to build protection off of with basic hand tools.

 

[dangerranger83]

I was thinking of using those bolts for the outside mount anyways. I plan on going through and re-enforcing what I can.

Not too worried about the transfercase hanging low, helps with the drive shaft angles not being so steep like they were with the last trans.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[dangerranger83]

Okay..bare with me. Yes they are ugly, did it on my phone but the finished product will look better then my kindergartener drawing skills..

Okay this picture says it all. The yellow X at the top its the down hump in the way that will be cut out.

This one is the driver side. I will bolt the leaf spring hanger to the long arm bolts on the frame, hopefully it will be wide enough. Also the xmember well be mounted flat, not angled as shown.

Now this side I will cut the eye mount off and make as what is shown in red. Fab up the red part to attatch to the bottom of the xmember, run up the side of the long arm mount, then turn to mount on the top of the bottom frame rail which will be bolted only do I can remove it from the truck. It's being made that way due to the current one is an inside frame mount and if I did one on the same side as an outside mount an one inside, might make it a bit hard to remove and/or install again.

Like I said, this will be easier done then said. Now to find the time and get good weather for me to get this done.


Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[bobbywalter]

yeah, i can see that...



that should take a beating and come back for more

 

[dangerranger83]

You were the one person I was going for an opinion from. Looks like a lot of planning on this one will pay off...isn't ADHD great, you start thinking about something, you can't stop till you got it figured out...while the rest of the world looks at you like your a nut case LOL.

Now to collect the rest of the steel I need and get all the hardware too.

Also I hope the leaf hanger will work. If not, the driver suffer mounting will be the same as the passenger.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[dangerranger83]

Okay dug out my leaf mind and went to the truck to see how things are going to mount on it and the xmember.

Will have to cut a spot out for one blot in the leaf mount and still a couple others.

The mount isn't wide enough but nothing says the xmember bushings can't see what an angle grinder can do to them for a bit of clearance.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2