dangerranger1983 build

[dangerranger83]

This is the one that I have and that I need.

If for some reason I can get a stock xmember then I will see about making one out of 2x4 steel that is 1/4 thick.

 

[dangerranger83]

Another idea that I might end up doing.

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[dangerranger83]

Checked the rad fluid earlier today and noticed it was down. Well saw a very small spot under the truck and it's coming from a the hole that comes in the pump. ..

New pump too, no reason for it to be leaking either.

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[escort_gts]

Did you buy it from AutoZone?

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[dangerranger83]

Yup, has a LLT warrenty but dont know if its void due to being painted.

Anybody know what the purpose of the hole is if any? Can it be filled in with a sealant?

Got my goodie in the mail.

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[kris97ranger]

I just did the water pump on my 22re today and saw a hole on it too... i have no clue why they are there...

 

[bobbywalter]

I just did the water pump on my 22re today and saw a hole on it too... i have no clue why they are there...

they are there to let you know its water pump and jelly time


















put some leak stop in.



i usually make a hd member with channel in a t formation. just depends on situation.


generally they need to be welded but diagonal mounting has mitigated welding in a few scenarios.


but its something i like to do custom when planning skid protection etc.


what are the main drawbacks bugging you with the setup you have?

 

[bobbywalter]

oh yeah....



two biggest engine killers i know....pennzoil and fram.

 

[dangerranger83]

The drawback is not being able to put a drive shaft in do to clearance issues with the transmission crossmember. I don't want to mount a diagonally I plan on making it straight it's just a matter of how but I think I have an idea. Originally I did not want to mount to my frame mounts for my long arms but it seems like that's the only option I have.

Instead of putting stop leak through my system which I don't want to do I will just said try to see blue salon in there and go from there.

And ask for oil and filter its to each his own.

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[Robert_1967]

That hole is a weep hole, it's to let you know the pump is going bad.

I did have a friend that put a grease zerk in it to grease the pump, of course he was 87 when he pass on.



Robert





posted with a non-rooted prayer, and ice cream.

 

[dangerranger83]

If I have to replace the pump im finding a cast iron one, not going to dick around with the aluminum ones.

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[bobbywalter]

well, i can pick through test engines and tell which ones didnt have valvoline or motocraft on disassembly. synthetics not so much. mobil 1 in the synlabs is fawking crazy.

my original engine would have never made it 250 k with penn. it was clogging up under 70k. (i know that was the 80's) seriously though, depends on drive cycle for most of us if one is really better, so to each their own. most, or rather the vast majority of people will not own something 0-300k miles.


limiting yourself to a non diag crossmember presents challenges with no shop.

but i bet you can measure it good, one of use can make you something that you can finish and fit up to your eventual belly/skid plate goals. shipping could be 30 bux still but you would have some beef to base your belly protection off of.

 

[dangerranger83]

I can make it work at an angle its just attaching to the long arms mounts and unattaching is the biggest thing I have to think about plus making a monuting spot on the arm mounts. I can get some 1/4 inch plate, angle it and weld to the crossmember so the trans can mount to it.

If the weather is nice tomorrow I will test fit my first idea a few different ways and go from there. I dont want to use the factory mounts on the new cross memeber so they will be cut off.

As for a skid plate, not to worried about that right now.

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[bobbywalter]

i run this type quite a bit.

this is how i usually cut the pans. i go right into the drain thread insert.

when on stock brackets i just cut and invert that corner...sometimes all the way across but you lose oil capacity that way. so you engine is about 2 in forward of what i usually run.

 

[dangerranger83]

I was thinking about making something just like that. Also was thinking of making one out of DOM tubing if I can get away with a straight one due to frame mounting space is limited between the longarm mount and the transfercase. I will get pictures tomorrow of the space I have to work with. I want to avoid mounting to the arm mounts if I can, dont need the weight and the torquing of the engine on them.

Also wish I had known about ford having a fixed output on the 208, learned that last weekend when I was at the JY driveshaft shopping.

I was also told the other day by a coworker that the chevy k5 blazers, gmc's, etc... have a small diameter but thick walled front shafts that are good for limited spaced clearances such as what I am messing with.

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