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dana 35 upgrade question


Be sure to plug the holes. You don't want grit and nasty in with your gears or the wheel bearings. Those little rubber, expandable freeze plugs work great. If you have to pull an axle on the trail, they seal your diff and the spindle.
 
I would not suggest making a habbit out of driving with out the front pig in,when the pig is out it dont take much to bend the beam then.


As long as you put the pinch bolt back in and tighten it down, you'll be fine. The third member provides very little structural support for the beam.
 
As long as you put the pinch bolt back in and tighten it down, you'll be fine. The third member provides very little structural support for the beam.

x2

i drove my first ranger for 6 months with no issues while i was too broke to repair it
 
what is the pig tho seriously, i dont know what it is, its a lil embarrassing
 
what is the pig tho seriously, i dont know what it is, its a lil embarrassing

It's a medium sized farm animal. Makes pork, ham, bacon, some sausages, etc.

It's also Rosanne Barr.

But I think the pig you're looking for is a differential assembly, case, and housing (front or rear). Also known as the 3rd member.
 
It's a medium sized farm animal. Makes pork, ham, bacon, some sausages, etc.

It's also Rosanne Barr.

But I think the pig you're looking for is a differential assembly, case, and housing (front or rear). Also known as the 3rd member.


HOLY SHIT.....I THINK MAKG JUST MADE A JOKE IF IT IS AT ALL POSSIBLE, someone make this into there sig so in cant ever be denied:icon_cheers:
 
I would recommend against running full-circle snap rings on your front joints. I have found that they cause the cap to spin freely and "egg" out the ears of the shafts, ruining them. I ruined a set of shafts in a little over a year with full-circles.

What I'd recommend is to use the stock clips and tack weld them to the ear so they can't pop out. Also, you can put 4 small tack welds on top of the cap to the ear. These two steps will ensure that the cap does not spin, and that you won't spit out a clip. It will also save some time as you won't have to grind down the ears. To get the joint apart you'll have to grind off the tack welds; it's not too hard. I can usually have a welded joint apart in a few minutes.

Actually... the clips don't cause the caps to spin, that's simply because of the torque flexing the yokes, allowing the caps to wiggle around in there.
Tack-welding the caps (regardless of what clips you use) is what's stops them from spinning (hell, with them welded, you shouldn't need any clips at all lol).

FWIW, I've yet to have spinning caps ruin the yokes on mine running circle clips, but however you do it, simply keeping those caps in place (along with using the 760s) goes a tremendous distance in keeping your shafts alive.
 
Actually... the clips don't cause the caps to spin, that's simply because of the torque flexing the yokes, allowing the caps to wiggle around in there.


Agreed. Didn't mean to imply that the full circles were the cause of the spinning.
 

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