daily doubler build

[metalmacguyver]

Yeah, I ran into the same problem when I made my crossmember. The frame actually tapers outward towards the back.

 

[wahlstrom1]

I just bolted the 78/79 radius arm brackets on, bolted the plates to the inside of them and trimmed the cross bar to fit with the plasma then welded it in....not as fancy, but it worked! I may have to steal your idea for extending the radius arms as I have a few spare sets lyin around...

-andrew

 

[bradz71]

Looks good so far Bray. Adam called me about a possible play day at Levi's on Saturday, but if you're planning on working on it and need an extra hand, let me know. I'd be glad to come down and help.

If this happens let me know. I gotta go down to Peoria anyway. I gotta pick up a Toyota 8'' for the front of my 'Yota from that guy who had the maroon early Bronco at the Backfield Bog.

I've been under the weather the last couple days, so probably won't wheel but I can show up for moral support.

 

[RichD]

Your truck looks great!!! I couldn't see it in any posts but I noticed you changed the gas filler from inside the bed to outside....is that filler and cap from a Jeep? I'm in the middle of the a build and was thinking of cutting the fuel door off a donor but your setup looks a lot easier. As a side note for everyone I buy my DOM from www.metalsdepot.com, even with shipping I have not found it cheaper locally and they ship fast.

 

[Bray D]

Rich - yeah its a plastic fuel filler bezel from a jeep. Turned out decent.

John - I think I'll take you up on that offer. Looks like I'll still be workin on it then, and if not then you can help me bleed the brakes and come with for the maiden voyage.

OK, here's what I've got now. This is with 7* c - bushings. Am I pretty much stuck with building bracket for the arms at this position? I thought about trying to find someone to put a like a 5* bend in the arms, so I could tuck em up close to the frame like I had hoped for. I don't think I'll have any luck finding someone who can bend 2"x.250 though. The axle is pushed ~1.5" forward too so I could hook up my d-shaft. I'll have to shorted the d-shaft so I can pull the axle back into stock position.

Radius arms ready to be welded

Should I take another pass or call it good? This was welded up on 135 amps

built tie rod

aaaand its under there

 

[fordxranger]

great buildup so far. I basically had the exact same idea for the radius arms for when I do my sas. except I was planning on covering both sides of the c's with plate, do a bit more bracing on the top and incorporate the shock mounts in the bracing. I will definitely keep my eye on this build to see how they hold up. did you use 99% nickel rod when you welded the rad arms? I want to see how much I have to get to weld the tubes and the arms.

 

[wahlstrom1]

I'd leave the axle that extra bit forward as it will help your tires clear the fenders during flex/cornering. I have the axle centered in the stock position and would rub during compression let alone turning while flex'd after the coils sagged out a bit. I plan on doing as you've done and move the axle ahead a bit. You will be safe with atleast 2" forward before you'll have to worry about steering binding up.

 

[JohnnyU]

Another pass or two would never hurt.

Still have my number? Give me a shout later in the week and let me know.

 

[Bray D]

Will do John, I've still got it.

Wahlstrom - I'll see how far forward I can go. I think the frame bumps out a bit (to the outside) where the steering box attaches to the frame, that would effect the attachment of my upper coil buckets. We will see.

ford - I used 7014 rod for the arms (standard welding rod) and 99% nickely on the wedges/tubes. I don't think the arms are cast, they welded up fine.

For the record I can't take credit for the arms. I know Cheapthrills has arms like these as well as many over at Pirate.

 

[CheapThrillB2]

Moving the axle forward and the coil bucket placement isn't as big of a concern as is you have to watch your steering. Further forward you are and the closer the trac bar gets to the pitman arm itself.

And i didn't build my arms, i had a buddy do it who is a vendor for Currie and had the better welder. All i have is a Lincoln Mig.

 

[wahlstrom1]

Just went out and measured mine, and I'll be able to move the axle 2.5" forwards before the drag link and tie-rod are parallel when the wheels are straight (stock pitman arm too).

As far as coil alignment, and this is just an idea...Could you weld a block on to the top of the radius arm, as to extend the flat area the coil bolts through, and drill and tap it so that the coils stay in the stock position and the axle moves forward?

 

[AKBroncoII]

Any reason why you didn't just build your caster into the arms? Seems like a waste to spend the money on the new 7 degree bushings.

 

[Bray D]

Any reason why you didn't just build your caster into the arms? Seems like a waste to spend the money on the new 7 degree bushings.

Lol, the bushings are CHEAP when you look at the grand scheme of things. I needed new bushings anyways.

I didn't get much done today. Took 2 more passes on the arms so they're good. Got the stock upper buckets popped off too. I just need to figure out what I want to do for mounting my upper coil buckets. The driver's side bump for the steering box is killin me.

 

[wahlstrom1]

You could make an upper coil retaining bracket that would mount/pivot on a shock hoop style mount.

 

[bradz71]

Any reason why you didn't just build your caster into the arms? Seems like a waste to spend the money on the new 7 degree bushings.

Bushings are the same price no matter what degree they are.

By the way Bray I have a set of 4 and 2 degree bushings if by any chance you need them you can have them.