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d44 & 9" questions


$300 worth it?
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I'd try and talk them down. Also find out if the 9" is 28 or 31 spline.

Personally I'd go full width and use the 9" and the 44. The 9" is nice because you can get a high pinion 3rd member and with chromoly shafts be pretty damn bulletproof, and run a lot bigger tire than you could with the 8.8.
 
The 9" is a 31 spline. What has to be done as far as coil buckets/shock mounts etc, for a full width dana 44 axle?
 
Use the F-150 coil buckets and space them off the frame 1-2" per side. You may also be able to split some of the difference by offsetting the lower coil mounts on the axle where they attach to the radius arms as well.
Moving the c-wedges inward is not an option on a '78-'79 axle though.
 
Moving the c-wedges inward is not an option on a '78-'79 axle though.

Does this mean the 78-79 d44 axle would not be the best option for a full width swap? I would have to mount the rad arms way outside of the frame if not correct? Moving them closer to the tire and possibly creating a rubbing issue?
 
I'd leave the arms tight against the frame and just angle them in the bushings. And depending on what size tire you run and the wheel off set they won't rub anyway. I put the wedges on my 60 front, and used stock radius arms in my explorer and my 44 ground hawgs would not rub at all, however my new 44 boggers rub on the arm when I'm turned the whole way.
 
u joint eb d44

get axles out of a chevy d 44 for inner and ford full size d44sas for outer short fit the long eb d44 have the long side cut and respined alot cheaper
 
ok so I think full width is the way to go. what kind of steering mods need to be done and what is the best setup?
I am reading more about high steer option. I would like to keep the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern. What fords came with high steer knuckles?
 
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i know i sound like a dick but get a year or 2 of seat time in wheeling before you go "mall crawler". i thrash the piss out of my d35 and 8.8 and yet to have mechanical failure. my only failure was from my own stupidity (forced my radiator that did not belong in my vehicle into my fan). everyone wants to build a big capable rig. do some damn wheeling!

86
 
quote-i know i sound like a dick but get a year or 2 of seat time in wheeling before you go "mall crawler". i thrash the piss out of my d35 and 8.8 and yet to have mechanical failure. my only failure was from my own stupidity (forced my radiator that did not belong in my vehicle into my fan). everyone wants to build a big capable rig. do some damn wheeling!

86


I do wheel this bitch and not at the *#$ing mall and will continue to do so for at least another year or so and I know they(8.8 d35) are plenty durable...but I also know they have limitations and weak points-just like anything else. Im also fabbing up some extended radius arms as to hopefully get more flex out of it. I might just end up ruining a set of stock rad arms...I dont care its a learning process! This is something I would simply like to learn more about and hopefully grab some junkyard jewels for cheap that I can refurbish myself as I collect parts in the mean time. An SAS isnt done over night and in the mean time Im simply researching more about the different setups and how its done.
91
 
I do wheel this bitch and not at the *#$ing mall and will continue to do so for at least another year or so and I know they(8.8 d35) are plenty durable...but I also know they have limitations and weak points-just like anything else. Im also fabbing up some extended radius arms as to hopefully get more flex out of it. I might just end up ruining a set of stock rad arms...I dont care its a learning process! This is something I would simply like to learn more about and hopefully grab some junkyard jewels for cheap that I can refurbish myself as I collect parts in the mean time. An SAS isnt done over night and in the mean time Im simply researching more about the different setups and how its done.
91

ooook

i dont understand why people insist on "building" there rigs when they dont even wheel hard enough to break what they have now. it sounds like a waste of money. everyone i know who wheels HARD only upgrades because they keep breaking what they are running now.

all i am saying is ask yourself the next few questions before you go wasting/spending money to ugrade

1. do i regularly break shafts in my current setup?

2 have a pushed my current axles to there maximum potential? (lockers, gearing, tire size etc)

3 do i really wheel enough to justify spending the money?

4 am i doing this because its cool or because i actually NEED it to run the trails i do?

think i am dick all you want, but i am trying to help YOU.


86
 
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you do what you do and I'll do what I do
 
:thefinger:i never said you were either. the reason I started this thread was that I know many on here have done it and could help offer advice. advice on what parts to look for and on which trucks which with a little/alot of fab work will keep things as cheap as possible. im not into building the coolest most expensive rig nor can I. But I would like to make my truck more capable down the road and would have as much fun building it as I would wheeling it. when the right time comes I will reap the benefits of full width axles...untill then Ill be on the trail testing the limits of my current setup:headbang:
 

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