D35 front diff support bolt- replace or throw away

[TomJenks]

Ok, first off sorry if this has been posted before, I used the search function and didn't really find any posts talking specifically about this:

Have the front end of the ranger all tore down and getting ready to do the c-clip elemination mod. Have all the diff bolts out on the front and the only one left to come out is the vertical support bolt on the drivers side of the diff.

I was reading in the tech section about rebuilding one and the author said he didn't bother to put his back in. Anyone else done this with no ill-effects?
If I decide not to put the bolt back in I'm just gonna cut it up with a torch so I don't have to mess with separating the radius arm from the axle.

Anyone done it this particular way or have an opinion on it?

The truck isn't lifted and won't be used for extreme 4-wheelin or anything along those lines. Just use it as a beater truck for chores around the homestead and haulin wood.

 

[joshnlsn]

I don't know of any problems,but i would put the bolt back in.If you notch the radius arm a little bit you can get the bolt in and out without taking the arm off

 

[Jspafford]

Make SURE to put this bolt back in. We've seen many cases where people left this out and the differential housing cracks in that spot.

Reuse the bolt and put it back in.

 

[mjonesjr]

Make SURE to put this bolt back in. We've seen many cases where people left this out and the differential housing cracks in that spot.

Reuse the bolt and put it back in.

Exactly. It is there for a reason, to support the diff and the beam.

 

[Yellowsplash]

Put it back in...

 

[86 slo-vo]

put it back in and notch the beam while its apart so you wont have to pull the RA next time

 

[Ranger44]

I agree, I put a new bolt in and put a slight notch in my radius arm. Works great.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

I notched the head of the bolt into a D shape instead of clearancing the radius arm. But yes, put it back in either way.

 

[4x4junkie]

I notched the head of the bolt into a D shape instead of clearancing the radius arm. But yes, put it back in either way.

+1000
Do not notch the radius arm, you are creating a stress riser that could potentially cause the arm to crack and fail at some point later down the road if you do this.

Grind the head like said and then insert the bolt from below rather than from above like factory. It will go right in.

 

[legoms013]

+1000
Do not notch the radius arm, you are creating a stress riser that could potentially cause the arm to crack and fail at some point later down the road if you do this.

Grind the head like said and then insert the bolt from below rather than from above like factory. It will go right in.

+10000
Notch the bolt like has been said instead of the radius arm. Just take a grinder to one side and "flatten" it until the flange is flat with one side of the hex head and it should slip right in no problem. Makes it pretty easy to get in and out for next time, and is better than creating a crack point on your RA's.

 

[bobbywalter]

+10000
Notch the bolt like has been said instead of the radius arm. Just take a grinder to one side and "flatten" it until the flange is flat with one side of the hex head and it should slip right in no problem. Makes it pretty easy to get in and out for next time, and is better than creating a crack point on your RA's.

+ eleventybillion




but....get real radius arms and no grinding or notching needed.

 

[TomJenks]

Thanks to all who have replied. I appreciate the input. What I ended up doin was removing the bolt the ol' fashioned way by tearin the front end apart. Then when it was ready to go back in, I torched the bottom part of the bracket to give it a U-shape so the bolt would just slide back in, then tightened it down like you normally would.

 

[legoms013]

+ eleventybillion




but....get real radius arms and no grinding or notching needed.

With "real" arms or stock arms the bolt needs grinding.