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Custom radius arm ?'s


1RangerNut

Well-Known Member
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Dec 8, 2009
Messages
172
City
Central,IL
Vehicle Year
1989
Transmission
Automatic
I plan to build some homeade radius arms and was wondering which arms are better the D28's or D35's? (cuz I have both)

If I build them 12" longer do I just move the mount 12" also?

About how much degree should I build into them?

And lastly can I just use the stock mount or do I have to build new ones?

Thanks: Steve
 
Do your D28 arms have the separate little shock bracket thingy on them? If so, use those.

12" is what I extended mine. I didn't reuse the stock frame mounts though as they would've been turned downward at a weird angle had I used them, I instead built my own mounts, and made them sturdier at the same time (there's some pics of them on my Cardomain site).

As for the degree (I assume you're talking caster angle), it depends on how much lift you have. For 3-4" lift, I'm guessing about 6° would do it (the square section of your axle beams should be square with the ground at normal ride height while on level ground).


Hope than helps
 
here's mine so far. i just shortened them yesterday
P3250003.jpg


here's the RA mounts for the frame:
P9270108.jpg

P9270107.jpg
 
Do your D28 arms have the separate little shock bracket thingy on them? If so, use those.

They have a bracket with two bolts.

As for the degree (I assume you're talking caster angle), it depends on how much lift you have. For 3-4" lift, I'm guessing about 6° would do it (the square section of your axle beams should be square with the ground at normal ride height while on level ground).

Yes thats what I ment. My plan is to raise my coil buckets to make my 6" springs come out to a 4" lift.

Also what about moving the mounts back?
 
Do you measure where the cup sits for the bushing or do you measure from the end of the threads?

like this > l- or this l-<
 
I don't think it would matter, as long as you use the same reference point both times (I'd probably use the point where the cupped washer sits in case the stud length changes or something).

What I did on mine was position the axle in such a way so that the passengerside shaft & beam cleared behind the driverside beam's pivot bracket by about ½-¾ inch, then assembled the RA bushing & bracket onto the radius arm, then set it up against the frame and marked the holes to drill. This should put the front axle forward about an inch or so from what stock is (has some added benefits aside from improving approach angles and getting more tire clearance at the firewall when stuffed (flexed) up into the wheelwell).
 
Does anyone have a pic of how the radius arm bushing's go?

And how thick of a bracket should I have for them?
 
702959_14_full.jpg


Minimum 1/2" for the part the bushing goes through (5/8" - 3/4" would be better).
 
Isn't there suposed to be a plastic washer or something and what size hole for the bushing's? Cuz mine are pretty out of round.
 

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