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Crank no start issue


1994Ranger$$$pit

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2011
Messages
159
City
MA.
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Automatic
Hi gang,

Hoping somebody can lead me in the right direction with this.
I have:
1994 Ford Ranger 4.0 4x4.
Earlier this week I had a crank no start issue when leaving work.
Cranked 4 times and it stated finally. Made it almost home and it died while driving. Like a kill switch was pushed.

Couldn't hear the fuel pump kick on at key on so decided to pull the bed(had it off a few years ago)and change it.
Seemed to work just fine after changing....that is for several starts. Now it's back to cranking without starting randomly.

Noticed that when the fuel pump doesn't start the CEL doesn't illuminate during turn key. When it does the truck will start and run fine.
No codes when jumping the OBD1 plug and counting CEL flashes.

Could this be the PCM?
I changed the relays and checked for body grounded.
I'm at a loss.

TIA
Bob
 
If the truck sits a while it will start up if the CEL comes on when the key is turned.
If no CEL, the truck will just crank and not start. No hum from the fuel pump.
 
In engine fuse box is the EEC(PCM) Relay

When you turn the key on this relay should close, this powers up the PCM(computer) and several other engine devices.

IF this relay doesn't close, then no CEL and no Fuel pump, so no start, but it will crank

So pull out this relay and check connections for corrosion.
There should be a few other relays in the engine fuse box, that are the same type of relays, for wiper, AC, horn, so not critical systems, so swap the relays.
The Fuel Pump relay is also in there, but it is a critical system, lol, so don't swap out that one :)


The EEC relay gets 12v to activate from the ignition switch under the steering column, so if relay seems OK then could be ignition switch is the problem
Does key turn smoothly?

The Computer is in the engine bay drivers side between firewall and inner fender, you can pull it out and then test if the only two RED wires on it have 12v with key on, that 12v is from the EEC Relay

But thats only 1/2 the power, also need good GROUND for the other 1/2
Only Two Black/white stripe wires are the Grounds
 
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Thanks for the quick answer Ron.
I have switched out the EEC relay with other relays in the box. Also bought a new one for it and same issues.
It's so weird. If it sits for 1/2 hr. the truck will start right up once it's cold.
The CEL will be nice and bright/
But subsequent start ups after the first initial one the light will just flicker and then no light. No fuel pump, no PCM. Has spark but the fuel injectors have power on both sides.

It has stalled out while driving and while idling.

I've put a lot of time and effort to keep this truck's maintenance up. Sure want to keep her running.

Oh yeah, key turns smoothly but it is able to be taken out of the ignition even when the truck is running. The tumblers inside must be worn out.
 
Last edited:
BTW, is the computer a pain to get out of there?
I watched a youtube vid on it and it seems to be a biotch to get the bottom bolt out.Any good step by step instructions round for this?
 
I drilled a hole in the inner fender and used extension on the socket. You reminded me to cover the hole.....its been like that for a couple years.
 
Whoops, just noticed I may have posted in the wrong forum.

Anyways, trying to get some energy to go start this project.
Not even sure where to start.
 

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