coil springs PPI static height questions

[engdept]

I have access to a set of F-250 shock mounts that have been modified to use a stud upper mount if you are interested; $20 + shipping takes them.


you also need to plan on using something to keep the Jeep coils from bowing

 

[86ford]

i got a set of trailmaster SSV shocks that have 9.5 inches of travel and measure 15 inches compressed and 25 open. i am going to adjust my limiting straps accordingly. i am thinking about making 2 sets of limiting straps, one for the road and one for wheeling. we will see i am going to drive it once its together and make changes from there. junkie that contraption you built is crazy (in a good way). i not skilled enough nor dedicated enough to do something like that!

86

 

[86ford]

I have access to a set of F-250 shock mounts that have been modified to use a stud upper mount if you are interested; $20 + shipping takes them.


you also need to plan on using something to keep the Jeep coils from bowing

go pawn your junk in the for sale section.

86

 

[engdept]

go pawn your junk in the for sale section.

86

piss off, I was giving you an option for longer shocks.

 

[86ford]

piss off, I was giving you an option for longer shocks.

thanks, i am sorry for being a dick but i actually measured my shock clearances today and at full stuff my shocks are maybe half an inch to long. i am going to lower the bump stop 3/4 of and inch and put a limiting strap about an inch before the shock reaches its max. i think i am going to be very happy with these coils and if they sag out a inch or 2 o well. i am looking at around 9.5 inches of shock travel. i should only be losing 2 inches of potential shock travel but at the prices i have payed for all the parts that are going into this i am OK with it. i think i am only at 600 bucks for the lift, coils, shocks, d35, swap related parts, and all the BS stuff that goes along with it.

after getting my pig side beam in today i got to thinking about what the best way to keep these coils from bowing out far enough to cause issues. i have multiple spare nuts that are the same size as the ones used on the bottom to hold the coil in place. i was thinking that if i welded one of those nuts to a piece of 1inch pipe thats say 10 inches long then sleeved another piece of pipe over that i could in theory create a stopping point for the spring bowing. now my pipe sizes are just a guess as are my pipe lenths but i would look into it more if i get positive responses (i mite even do it anyway!).


86

 

[4x4junkie]

Pipe?

All you need is a little something to support the top winding of the coil where it wants to stick out past the coil bucket to keep it from bowing.

 

[86ford]

Pipe?

All you need is a little something to support the top winding of the coil where it wants to stick out past the coil bucket to keep it from bowing.

gotcha.

well i got the drivers side assembled to night and it looks like in either have to move my bump stop down about an inch and a half or move my shock mounts as expected. i am thinking i am going to move my bump stops for the time being because i am going to be removing plenty of fender as is because i am going to only be at 3 inches of total lift with 33s (that really measure out to 34). i anticipate crazy trimming so i want to get it back in wheelable condition then i will look into using these shocks to there full potential. i can use every inch of droop but am going to be losing around 2 inches of "stuff" because the shocks close up about 1 inch before the bump stop has contact so i am going to move the stop 2 inches down.

junkie how much brake line will i need from the stock location? and/or weres the best place to move it you know of?

also how much did you clearance the passenger side beam were the shaft passes through?

86

 

[rickcdewitt]

i am looking at around 9.5 inches of shock travel


86

you should be able to get 15"s of travel with those

i am going to be removing plenty of fender as is because i am going to only be at 3 inches of total lift with 33s

86

yeah i pretty much had to remove the factory flare in the sheet metal to get em to fit at that height.fold over the edge so it won't wobble and you can still pick up the truck by the wheel well to help a mild stuck.

get some flex shots when its done!

 

[86ford]

you should be able to get 15"s of travel with those

15 inches of shock travel? if the shocks are right next to the coils and the coils are 18 inches tall how the heck do i compress the spring to be 3 inches tall??? as i recall junkie said he has around 11 inches of travel.

i assume you mean wheel travel............

86

 

[4x4junkie]

Pretty sure he meant wheel travel also (generally that's what's referred to).

I measured right at 17" travel at the wheel with 9½" travel shocks, but that was one shock fully collapsed, the other fully extended.
Since swapping to SJ 6" XJ coils and 12" travel shocks, that number has grown to at least 20" (no tires off the ground though, and the shocks still had some room to move. I couldn't safely get the truck up any higher using what I had at hand for ramps).

As for the beam window, I hogged it out a LOT. The bolts that hold the radius arm on were hitting the shaft too, so I had to cut those down as well.

You can sortof see how much I widened the window here

I have Skyjacker's 6" lift braided brake hoses on mine (#FBL36, I think?)

 

[86ford]

thank god u mentioned the radius arm bolts. i would of been pissed if i got this all together and had to pull it completely apart again to cut the stupid bolts. as for clearancing that beam window, well, i mite as well get to grinding! thats a lot of grinding. looks like atleast an inch on the top and the bottom looks like you ground it almost all the way to the bottom of the beam. seems like my best bet is to just grind until i reach the rounded edges on the top and bottom of the beam. is that clearancing for 12 inch travel shocks or the 10 inch ones?

with how cheaply i obtained all my parts i am willing to only have 15 inches of wheel travel and loose 2-3 inches of stuff along with save some fender.

i have significantly added to the durability and structural integrity of these junk rancho drop brackets. i am wondering if i should even use the stupid sway/support brackets that came with the lift stuff. any thoughts?

you western and southern people have no clue how envious everyone east of the plains and north of the mason dixon line is of the lack of rust and deterioration you guys have on your vehicles.


86

 

[rickcdewitt]

you western and southern people have no clue how envious everyone east of the plains and north of the mason dixon line is of the lack of rust and deterioration you guys have on your vehicles.


86

i had a coil out of my truck yesterday to make a coil bow support at the base and measured bumpstop to droop with my 9" travel duffs. i got a little over 15",with your coils you'll be right in that range once you figure out the shock location.you should make something like this so those soft coils don't eat the brake lines.they are hose holders shortened for the size of the coil and line with a bolt holding it together,but plumbers tape would work good too-

now if you used a spring compressor to get junkies xj coils in and jumped the hell out of your truck you could probably get your shocks to pull apart and give you the 15" shock travel


i worked right on the ocean for two years,just long enough to really hate rust and all the cars parked in the salt air.but it taught me the right way to do bodywork and kill rust. and yeah you can be jealous of the 1953 hemi new yorker,rust free scout,58 chev stepside,and mustang in my yard.as well as all the old ass 20's through 40's cars abandoned out in the woods here.there are a few people i know here who make a living buying our old cars and shipping them off to their death back east.


20"s junkie! i wish i could drive that truck to see how that feels.i bet you don't take a lot of hard corners. some quick disco's with a huge sway bar should really help.i won't drive my bro's long arm tj on the road without the sway bar connected,but it is a heep and has handled horribly since he got it.

 

[4x4junkie]

Those supports on the Rancho brackets are worthless (whoever thought having a bushing in there to support (what's supposed to be) a rigid steel bracket must've been smokin something pretty good that day )

I just beefed up the brackets on mine, doubled up the flange thickness on the one for the passengerside and bolted them on straight. No issues so far.

Yeah, I'm within about ¼" of the top & bottom of the beam on the window. Fortunately the beam structure is double-thick above & below there so strength isn't compromised to any significant degree.

20"s junkie! i wish i could drive that truck to see how that feels.i bet you don't take a lot of hard corners. some quick disco's with a huge sway bar should really help.i won't drive my bro's long arm tj on the road without the sway bar connected,but it is a heep and has handled horribly since he got it.

I've never had problems with mine on the street. I know many others have run into issues with the Jeep coils on the TTB. Virtually every time though, they never bothered to make any effort to sort out their steering problems either. It takes very little to cause the TTB jack itself if the steering linkage geometry is fawked up, but with it setup right, it's fine.
Of course you could never expect a tall boxy truck (SUV, whatever) on big 35s to dodge traffic or carve through a canyon road the way a Porsche or similar car could (stiff coils or not), so I do have to drive it accordingly. It will easily leave a similarly-equipped TJ in the dust though.

 

[bobbywalter]

with 21 in or longer coils i make angled lower seats. i had a different setup for the upper sea but didnt like it, so i went with a modded lower seat.


steering was an issue with the 23.5 springs which i had to solve with custom stuff, but kept the wheels planted well.

this setup attempt with some fender clearancing sure seems to be a good way to go imo. i cant see it working good for an ext cab...but a b2 or reg cab would be awesome.




if you clearance the beam hole that much without beefing the hell out of it your going to bust the beam in half. with joels brackets i had minimal hole clearancing, but used the full potential of my springs...they were smashed flat and stretched max. so it dont get much more better then that in my eyes.

 

[86ford]

i mite plate the top and bottom of the beam with some 1/4 inch flat stock or angle iron just so mr walter dosent turn out to be right! even tho i think it mite be over kill. slowly but shure progress for me, that pesky thing called work keeps killing all my time.................

86