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coil springs PPI static height questions


if you clearance the beam hole that much without beefing the hell out of it your going to bust the beam in half. with joels brackets i had minimal hole clearancing, but used the full potential of my springs...they were smashed flat and stretched max. so it dont get much more better then that in my eyes.


:rolleyes: You ain't gonna bust the beam at the window, at least not before you crack those dang welds on the backside where it opens up to a c-channel... Bone-stock D44 beams have less metal in that area than my widened-window D35 beams.

But sure, you can plate it up, not gonna hurt anything. DO box up the open backside on the p-side though, the spots where those welds end is somewhat prone to fatigue cracks if you push it hard.
 
i dident box up the end towards the pivot point but i did plate both the bottom and the top of the window from the edge i cut out to the seam on one and to the bend on the other. to try and enclose the 3 sides of the window i trimmed i welded on the side of the beam closest to the pivot point but i anticipate i will be grinding a good portion of the center of it out so that i dont get front to back contact with the shaft. i am shooting to be complete for saturday the 6th or sunday the 7th. it is realistic but i am shure i will be doing plenty of changes after the shake down run that weekend.

86
 
Naw, the only places you should need to beef it is on the back, and maybe above & below the window.

Anyway, good luck on it. Be sure to post up some pics when you get it finished. :icon_thumby:
 
front suspension is complete. brake lines, brakes, tie rod ends, drop pitman and rear leafs/hangers to go.
 
b2 moved under its own power again tonight. i have minor fender trimming to do because i am moving the bump stops down 2ish inches. that lowering will eliminate my need to cut the tops of the fenders out (maybe). it looks like it SHOULD be able to be aligned but that is still unproven. brake lines need ran and hooked up but that should be done by middle of the week if i get time. as for flex, it should be able to take on most of the off camber areas i have had trouble in the past with. now i just need to find 300 bucks for an aussie................

86
 
junkie you can rub it in now....... it looks like i will be using coil spacers right off jump street.......

86
 
Lol, I wish I had gotten a pic of all the washers I had under there before I swapped to the SJ coils. It was almost 3" worth :icon_surprised:
 
Lol, I wish I had gotten a pic of all the washers I had under there before I swapped to the SJ coils. It was almost 3" worth :icon_surprised:

dont worry i have HUGE zj coils that are brand new sitting in the garage if push comes to shove. but i think they are 22-24 inches tall. these rancho coils need controlled big time. i am going to make shure my steering is close to perfect and that my ride height is leveled out before i make to many changes but i think i have some part of the alignment fawked up big time. its funny because the coils sat right at the height they should be at tnite but dident earlier. they seem very touchy. we will see what happens. i need to tweak my suspension alot before i go making a double shock setup.

86
 
well, i got distracted from the suspension and made a "bumper" if you want to call that and fabricated (hacked) a trail spare driveshaft. what i am looking for is a measurement for the distance from yoke to yoke on a d28 shaft that is cut down to accept a d35 pig. (yes its the 1350 with the slip in the t-case. i need good measurements so when i take it in to the fab shop i know how much to have taken out of a stock shaft.

i also need to know if the slip in the t-case provides enough travel for these jeep coils so the shaft does not fall out or destroy the splines on the shaft. my goal is to find out the best possible way to have a shaft professionally made. worst case is i hack it up and make a square shaft.

86
 
Slip travel should be fine (I ran the 1350 in mine for a good while before I put the doubler in)

Sorry, I don't have a length on the shaft though (if you can find a stock one, it's -1")


Edit:

If you want to make sure the suspension is sitting at it's correct height, put one front tire on a steel plate with some round metal dowels under it. This will release any bind between the front tires that would cause the suspension to stay "jacked up".
 
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as for the suspension being "jacked up" its fine. i have taken it for short drives and the coils ride right aroung 13 to 13.5 inches just as you said. i made a bastard shaft last nite so it will be my trail spare and i will have one properly made for regular use. my concern now is the crazy suspension roll and bouncing. any idea what the culprit mite be? it is yet to get a proper alignment (nothings terribly out of whack). i am anticipating these coils just need to loose some of there tension and settle for a hundred miles or so before they are controllable without making dual front shocks. drop pitman arm is in the works but the steering is not very far off in terms of angles. i will be working with it more slowly.

86
 
Steering becomes VERY critical with those coils. It doesn't take much to induce it self-jacking. Bad toe alignment will mess with it too (Steering & alignment is without question something the TTB is finicky about, it's has to be pretty much dead on to not see any odd behavior from it).

2.5" lift without a drop arm on 33s or bigger will create an issue for sure (I don't recall the tire size you're running, but the effects do increase with tire size). I'd get the drop arm on there before going any further with anything.
 
i am working on the pitman arm. i think my problems are being compiled with me not having the rear end lifted yet so its got a serious downward slope towards the back end.

86
 
well i got the rear of the b2 lifted to a similar height (~1) as the front, we will see how much of my problem was corrected by that but i anticipate i will be making a duel shock setup and buying a pitman arm soon. along with some washers or similar spacers up front to correct some of my camber issues..... (junkie is laughing......)

86
 
as crazy as it sounds the truck ONLY with the 33s, runs down the freeway without much of a problem, other than the tires arent balanced.

86
 

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