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coil spring ????


tmaxxman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2010
Messages
408
City
PA
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Manual
is there any way i could use coil springs out of a full size stock truck like f-150 or any others to get about a 3" lift ???? i dont have the money to go just get 3" coils for it need to go cheap i can get a pair of f150 springs for 20 bucks any info or help would be very helpfull :icon_hornsup:
 
3" of lift on the stock TTB brackets is un-alignable....

2" over stock is all you can get of a lift without lift brackets....

you can try some F150 coils as some have used them...but have heard they are EXTREMELY STIFF.....and depending on how sagged your stock coils are will depend on how much it will be lifted...

check the Tech Library at the top of the page....tons of info in there for bout' all your questions....

l8r, John
 
cheaper than 150 springs is about 1" of washers gets you close to 2" lift all you can get without brackets.Either way you have to buy camber adjusters which is about $30 per side.
 
Any way you slice it you are looking at an $80 plus dollar alignment.
 
summit had pa 2" for 84 bucks 3" for 99

when u try to do 3" coils with no ra drops or ext ra's, your front dshaft will hit the ra x member. i guess u could always cut it, i dont see how that would hurt it. as when people do ext ra's most dont make an xmember
 
summit had pa 2" for 84 bucks 3" for 99

when u try to do 3" coils with no ra drops or ext ra's, your front dshaft will hit the ra x member. i guess u could always cut it, i dont see how that would hurt it. as when people do ext ra's most dont make an xmember

Yeah there is no point in doing 3" lift coils without any of the following: drop pitman arm, drop brackets, radius arm drop brackets and new shocks.

But its best to make a new cross member when you run extended radius arms, Ford put one there for a reason, torsional resistance and support of the transmission.

F150 coils are really stiff. TTB RBV are already stiff, why swap in stiffer ones?

Absolute cheapest and most effective way would to add some steel washers underneath your current coils. Retains factory ride and lifts it only as much as you want (by how many washers you stack) and you can also fine tune the ride height like for instance if its leaning to on side, stack a washer or two extra on the low side. Don't forget an alignement.

Alignment plus washers: ~$120 or less (most likely less).
 
So i could put 2"s of washers with out needing any thing else but a Alignment I would like to get as much as i can get with out needing pitman arm, drop brackets, radius arm drop brackets

NO...the length of the stud will not let you do 2" of washers....

plus with 1 3/8" stack of washers will get you 2" of lift.....its a Geometry thing between the beam mounting point and the stack of washers in relation to the centerline of the spindle....

and 2" of lift is the max you can get and your truck still be alignable.....

l8r, John
 
The TTB has a 1:1.5 lift ratio (due to the placement of the pivot point and length of the beams themselves.

SO if you put an 1" of washers you will net 1.5" of lift. The max amount of washers you can put under there should never exceed a total LIFT amount of 2". You can only put on as many washers that will fit on the stud and still allow the washer/nut to get full thread engagement.

usually right around 1 3/8" of washers or less is typical (this will net just over 2", so your gonna want to only put 1.25 of washers underneath your coils).

Don't forget this will throw out all alignment specs

Good luck :icon_thumby:
 
NO...the length of the stud will not let you do 2" of washers....

plus with 1 3/8" stack of washers will get you 2" of lift.....its a Geometry thing between the beam mounting point and the stack of washers in relation to the centerline of the spindle....

and 2" of lift is the max you can get and your truck still be alignable.....

l8r, John

actually my spacers are 1.75" without the factory coil bucket, and a 1/4" washer under the drivers side, and 2 1/4" washers under pass(to level it side to side), for some reason the drivers stud is shorter than the passenger.

i think it depends on your stud size, but u can always buy the stud extenders for 29.99 off ebay. if i got some i would have to use what i have now, plus 1" more of washers to use them. but thats just how my rig is
 
one more thing will i need the get camber adjusters if so weres the cheapest place to get them and how would i go about lifting the back up could i make some blocks out of square stock . if so how thick do thay have to be 1 3/8 to ????
 
for the rear you can do it 2 ways....

get the 3 leaf spring pack from a 4 door Ex....will get ya around 1 1/2" of lift...

or goto Auto Zone, Oreilly's, etc... and look for Chevy "lowering" shackles...you can get a couple inches with them....

l8r, John
 
for the rear you can do it 2 ways....

get the 3 leaf spring pack from a 4 door Ex....will get ya around 1 1/2" of lift...

or goto Auto Zone, Oreilly's, etc... and look for Chevy "lowering" shackles...you can get a couple inches with them....

l8r, John

Commonly called Beltech 6400's and run about $60.

Lifting the rear is easy, it just depends on how you want the stance of your truck. You can swap to a taller block, do the Beltech Chevy lowering shacks, AAL, explorer leaf pack or any combination of these to achieve either A) level truck, B) nose down truck, or C) nose up truck (like a prerunner).

What ever suits your tastes.
 

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