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Clutch Problem?


It's far from an achilles heel. The slaves run similar lifetimes to the clutch, and require almost the same effort to change.

Release forks have their own issues. Not the least of which is that the release bearings don't last as long with the off-axis forces, and that requires pulling the transmission....

Before reminiscing about the "old days," do keep in mind that comparable truck transmissions weighed a WHOLE lot more back then. My SM465 is 150 lbs. No transfer case. It takes an engine crane and a hole in the floor to install that.

And any guy with a decent jack can do this. You don't need a dealer.

I'd expect the dealer would want 10 bills for this. The corner mechanic, probably half that.
 
hey im a new member but i need to know real quick how to disconect my hydraulic line from my tranny...... everything else i got covered. but to help you help me i have a 2.3 with a 5speed behind it i think a t9
 
MAKG, thanks for the helpful information. You've sorta inspired me to not be so afraid of finishing the job next time. Maybe that thing wasn't so bad after all. I was almost there, only had 2 more bolts on the transfer case. Damn, those things fought me all the way out ... seemed like some kind of really course thread on them.

Well, I hope this slave does last an amount of time more commensurate with the clutch disc itself. My current disc appeared to have lots of life in it; although I suppose that's just speculation until I actually see it.

Let me ask you this: Being that the part is plastic, have you ever heard anyone think that offroad vibration could damage it? Just thinking out loud ... sure seems like I started having problems after I got back from some horrifying washboards among other things. There was a lots of dust too, I can't help but wonder if *that* got in their and sent the throwout bearing to an early demise.

I'm also not entirely convinced the slave *truly* failed. If you had a throwout bearing that was virtually siezed, could that make the truck creep forward?

At one point I was sitting at a light with the clutch pedal depressed ... the truck would make a horrible screeching sound from the bell-housing area and then lurch forward, but then a mere second later ... with no further input from me, it would *stop* lurching forward. That doesn't sound hyrdaulic to me.

If it was the slave slowly losing pressure, you'd think it would have started creeping, and just *kept* on creeping as the pressure plate was slowly "unpressured".

Of course maybe that sound I was hearing was the fact that I had no disc left, but at least as I remember, clutches start slipping before that. this one appeared to grip just great, with normal pedal travel, until it started acting up all at once.

Oh well, who knows what the guy before me did to the poor thing in 70k. Here's hoping I can get my usuall 150k out of this one :)

dealer wants about double that estimate; dunno, maybe that fact I live in CA where everything is expensive, or maybe it's the extra 4x4 hardware adding up time. I am having them replace the master cylinder too. I don't want any crap in the old one getting down there and messin up my shiny new slave cylinder, lol.


blakrose, hopefully someone here who knows will help you, but I can tell you this, if it's that quick disconnect fitting like I just saw on mine, you just press the little white plastic ring in.

Cheers!
 
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yes as a matter of fact i did see a little white ring that would slide in but i held it in with a pocket knife and gave a little tug but that didn't do anything but after a few hours of tooling around i might figure something out. plus my father just got a new ranger with a 4.0 and a 5 speed auto, and he let me test drive it. and there being a bit of snow on the ground i stopped the truck looked at my dad and said "lets see if she has a lim slip." and sure enough i put the peddle to the floor and she spun both tires and took off like a bat out of hell on snow.
 
There is a special tool you can purchase at any parts store to push in on the white ring. As you are pushing the white retaining ring in towards the transmission, push in on the line a little and then pull gently. You may have to try this more than once and wiggle it around. But you need to press in on that ring all the way around, not just one side at a time.
 
Bills442, I think you're describing a failing release bearing, or perhaps pilot bearing. Pilot bearing noises almost always go away completely when the clutch is down, and come back when the transmission is put in gear (if you can) while still stopped. Release bearings may make noise all the time, but expect it to be different with the clutch down. RBV release bearings are never completely removed from the clutch.

Both of these problems require pulling the transmission to service, and it will be very obvious once the transmission is being removed.

There is no way to shock a slave on the trail, so shaking one apart is just not going to happen. Plastic is only an issue for rock hits or other shocks, or perhaps excessive heat. Except that it doesn't corrode....

Consider replacing the clutch while you're in there. You may have to if the slave has fouled the disk. Now, it will cost you about $150 extra. Later, you get to pay virtually the same as your current slave/release replacement.
 
hey i was wondering what the deal may be if i have 70% peddle play in my clutch. it does creep at the light if i let off the brake. now im afraid i might have a bad slave. but i had the slave replaced 40k ago when the first clutch went out. please help me diagnose cause i already spent 250 for a new clutch sys and flywheel while i was at it.
 
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If it creeps when you let off the brake, it sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging completely. Check the level of the fluid in the reservoir, it may need to be bled. Ranger clutch systems can be hard to bleed 100%, and its possible that when the clutch was replaced it wasn't bled quite all the way.
 
I'm still trying to think of why my peddle has play. I can push it in 3/4 with my finger. about how mutch will a slave set me back. and are there performance slaves.
 
Hello! This is my first time posting in this forum, so please be nice!

I've begun having trouble getting my truck into gear. The shifter simply won't move into place when I have the clutch pedal depressed at a stop, and sometimes I actually have to shut the engine off before it will work.

Does this indicate I need a new clutch?

Thanks for your help!

Possible air in your line.. look into bleeding your clutch.. there are forums on this..
 

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