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Clutch Cable slack??


Did this problem just start, or has it always been an issue? If it's nothing new, then definitely go through the full bleeding procedure before you replace it (remove it from the firewall, invert it, and bleed it thoroughly). If it was working fine and suddenly started doing this, there's no reasonable explanation but a leak somewhere.
 
Well when I got it, the clutch didn't disengage at the top of the pedal. It's always been closer to the bottom of the stroke. It slowly got further and further.

Would this account for the trouble shifting into gears?
 
Yes, absolutely. Here's what I'd do... Unbolt the master from the firewall, run a bleed line straight from the bleed valve on the slave to the master reservoir. Flip the master cylinder upside down, open the valve and keep cycling the piston until you are absolutely sure there is no more air in the line, then close the valve. Reinstall and test it. If it's solid and the gears shift easily, you might get lucky and somebody in the past just did a poor job of bleeding it after opening the system up.

If not, go ahead and swap the master for a new one and bleed it the same way. You have to have it away from the firewall and inverted in order to bleed all the air out of the system. If you skip that step, you'll be chasing your tail.
 
Interesting. You know how mad I would have been if I replaced the clutch and it didn't solve the problem? There would have been lots of 4 letter words, lol.

Since the slave is inside the bellhousing, will I need to pull apart the transmission and clutch?

Will it be noticable when I've completely purged the system of air? Seems like I'd be able to feel the resistance when I cycle the piston.
 
You don't need to do anything on the transmission end but open up the bleed valve. If you get rid of all the air AND the master isn't broken, it will be noticeable immediately.
 
just bleed it...there is a bleeder valve on the slave...get someone to pump while you crack the bleeder...just watch for air bubbles and close the bleeder when they're gone...you will need to either top up the MC yourself or have someone else do it to save you the effort of crawling under the truck a few times...
 
Alrighty, I'll crawl around under the truck when I get home today and take a looksie. I'm not as familiar with the drivetrain as I'd like to be.

I guess I'm just confused on the setup of the slave. I thought it was inside the bellhousing? It must be easily reachable from the outside then.

I'm gonna go look up how to remove the master cylinder. It's all new to me.

Thanks for the help guys!
 
The slave is inside but the connector for the fluid line sticks out the side of the bellhousing along with the bleed valve.
 
The slave is inside but the connector for the fluid line sticks out the side of the bellhousing along with the bleed valve.

Ah gotcha. So bleeding the slave sounds similar to bleeding the brakes. Crack it open and have someone slowly push the clutch pedal. Close valve to prevent air coming back into the line.
 
Ok, so, my clutch is all at the top of the pedal stroke. The master reservoir fluid level is down, but am I looking at the brake or the clutch reservoir or is it for both??? By the way, Rangers ar notorious for the clutch catching at the top.
 
Ok, so, my clutch is all at the top of the pedal stroke. The master reservoir fluid level is down, but am I looking at the brake or the clutch reservoir or is it for both??? By the way, Rangers ar notorious for the clutch catching at the top.

As you said, that's typical for Rangers (if I'm understanding what you're describing). It doesn't sound like anything is wrong.
 
Does the MC have to be completely removed from the engine bay? I found a reference to a TSB (Ford bulletin #93-12-19) that you can bleed teh MC by disco'ing the connector at the SC and bleeding it that way instead of bench bleeding.
 
It doesn't, nor do I really see any purpose in doing so. All you need to do is get it away from the firewall so you can invert it. There's an area at the bottom of the MC that allows air to collect. With it upside down you can purge that into the hose and pump it out.
 
So then I'd invert the MC and follow the bleeding procedures outlined in the Tech Library? Sorry for all the n00b questions. I'm a n00b with hydraulic clutches.
 
/me wanders off to see what's in the tech library...
 

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