Clocking a BW1356

[dangerranger83]

Not worried about converting anything. At best Ill steal both driveshafts and cut them from there. And the 85 f150 has an 8.8 rear on it so (hopefully the huge rear large ujoint for the diff and larger flange) and it will bolt to and explorer rear end or another narrow 8.8 out of a ranger.

Im not looking for huge horse power, that will get me in trouble and I will start breaking stuff. May just end up using the auto tranny for now or if I find a manual there then go that way. Hopefully the 85 will be there long enough for me to grab it stuff, hasnt been touched since it got there and Im told it runs great. Since it has the duraspark setup (like what I have) an carbed I can just hook up a battery to it and give it a gas ivy and see how she runs right there.

And if I go to an automatic.....floor shifters for an automatic since Im not going to put the lever on the tree, ideas? Vehciles from a JY that may have what I need without having to buy a new one, etc.....

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

And if I go to an automatic.....floor shifters for an automatic since Im not going to put the lever on the tree, ideas? Vehciles from a JY that may have what I need without having to buy a new one, etc.....

If you run a C4/C5 the you can make the linkage and bezel out of a 83-84 Ranger/Bii with a factory C5 work. Somehow they just use the pushrod that goes to bellcrank assembly. I highly recomend something with OD if you plan on driving it much with any kind of speed though.

Since you have a manual now, if you want a clean slate to work with for an aftermarket shifter, any RBV with a collum shift should have a solid plate with no holes to mess with (side from optional 4wd lever holes that may need altered anyway)

I have a B&M Unimatic in mine, decent price, looks sharp and works great. It fits a bunch of different transmissions.

I used a stock first generation 2wd/electric 4wd shift bezel, whiped the lettering off and played with the stickers that came with the shifter (cut up to get the timing right) and I have a lit shift bezel. I did have to oblong the hole for the lever too. Dunno how but I got the placement just right to hold my drink in the rather deceptive holes that resemble cupholders in an Explorer console.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-80775/

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v623/85_Ranger/1985 Ranger Buildup/100_2966.jpg

 

[dangerranger83]

85_Ranger4x4, what engine are you running i.e. came out of and what is the power rating on it and have you done any work to it and also the tranny. I know what transfercase you have.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

85_Ranger4x4, what engine are you running i.e. came out of and what is the power rating on it and have you done any work to it and also the tranny. I know what transfercase you have.

1987 roller non ho, FEAD is consistant with a Crown Victoria. E6 heads, rated 150hp @ I forget the RPM and 270 lb-ft @ 2000rpm. Instead of EFI and cast iron manifolds it has a Edelbrock 1403 500cfm 4bb, Weiand Stealth intake, Duraspark ignition and Hedman 88400 headers with a 2.25" true dual exhaust with glasspacks. I did most of the "while I am there" stuff too, new oil pump, pickup, gaskets, seals...

I am wanting to change the front FEAD to something more compact like out of an Explorer... and while I am there an HO or Explorer cam would be great. The 1986 Mustang GT had the same longblock with an HO cam and was rated at 200hp.

It goes along great though powerwise, I also have 3.73's and 31's on the truck.

Tranny is what I beleive is a V8 C5 (has a V8 C5 bellhousing anyway) with a RBV C5 tailhousing. It was sold to me as being freshly rebuilt and actually out of a V8 BII so aside from changing the filter and pan gasket I didn't do any more to it.

Transfer case is a BW1350 for anybody else that wants to know.

I didn't pull the heads off and I wish I would have, I have a sneaky feeling granny didn't blow the cobwebs out of her CV enough and it is causing a ping. I need to get around to checking compression. It is pretty down to either that or the stock cam isn't fully compatable with carburation, since an HO cam is a 50hp jump it must be pretty tame.

 

[dangerranger83]

So just a simple cam change to the HO one can give a 50 hp increase or is there more to it (know the timing changes a couple of cylinders but which ones)? I think Im going to be going with the carb setup on this one.

Do you know if the 85 f150 has rollers or not and if there is a simple way to check if a 302 has a roller cam or not?

 

[Teddyzee]

So just a simple cam change to the HO one can give a 50 hp increase or is there more to it (know the timing changes a couple of cylinders but which ones)? I think Im going to be going with the carb setup on this one.

Do you know if the 85 f150 has rollers or not and if there is a simple way to check if a 302 has a roller cam or not?

The firing order changes from 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 to 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 with an HO or Explorer cam. Same firing order as a 351. Not a big deal with a carb, but does require a specific gear for the distributor.

A 1985 truck would not have had a roller cam.

 

[dangerranger83]

Ya i litteraly just read up on that so it may be a no go engine then, unless it wouldnt matter if I could change out the cam for a better one and still get a slight HP increase. What is the disadvantage to running a flat tappet vs a roller cam when it comes to performance upgrades?

I found a LTD Crown Vic there with the TBI/CFI fuel injection and reading up hweres info I found...

As the 1980s progressed, various other changes were made to the LTD Crown Victoria. 1983 saw the introduction of central fuel injection (CFI) on the 4.9 L (302 cu in) models (identifiable by a fender badge reading "Electronic Fuel Injection"), which was replaced with sequential electronic fuel injection (SEFI) in 1986 (accompanied by the deletion of said fender badge). Many mechanical changes were made during this time as well, but most important, it should be noted that all 4.9 L (302 cu in) engines from 1985-on were equipped with a hydraulic roller valvetrain that allowed the use of improved camshaft profiles across the production line.

How could I find out the year of this LTD crown vic by looking at the vin or the door sticker? Going back this weekend to the JY to go take another look at it (and there is also a grand marquie there too but it is true fuel injection) and see what they are wanting for an engine. The Grand Marquie isnt a HO due to the intake manifold has said that to me but if it has the roller then Im golden from there.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Emisions label in the engine compartment and/or any labels on the engine. Usually the build month and year is on the door sticker too, but Ford is kinda goofy with their model years. For example my brothers 2011 Mustang GT was built in late May of 2010... and has a vastly different engine from a 2010 (that had a really short production run) It will get you close though.

Remember the later the better, some of the early 80's stuff wasn't all that great... at all.

IMO the Merc sounds better, if it is EFI it is likely a roller. There is a ton of stuff in my build thread about the ins and outs of picking out an engine too.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61372&highlight=hedman+88400

Roller cams allow for more precise valve action since there is only one point of the roller riding on the cam instead of the flat tappet. The only downside is cams themselves are a lot more money... but cams can get much more interesting because of how much more accurate they are.

 

[dangerranger83]

I think I will just look at engines that have the EFI on them and go from there instead of going for ones that dont.

Now I will say there was a mustang there that was a convertable and had a 5.0 about a year ago but not sutre if it still there (got rolled over so engine problems isnt why it was there) and would haved the motor mounts that I need too. I hate to take an engine out of a mustang due to most mustang get the living dog sh!t run out of them.

Now when going to a high output why go to a cast iron gear? I plan on running this engine carbed, just for simplicity. I figure if I am going to do this, might as well just put a HO cam in her and be done.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

It isn't the induction system, it is the camshaft. Rollers use one kind of dizzy gear and flat tappets run another. Fuel injection happened to come out about the same time as roller cams.

Rollovers may not be a safe bet either. If they stop upside down and don't kill, they are trying to run with the oil and pickup and opposite ends of the crankcase... we have rebuilt a couple tractors that rolled for that reason.

 

[dangerranger83]

What I do know about this car is it did land back on all four wheels after was said and done. Plus it being FI it more or less kicked the intertia switch too, if it had one.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

What I do know about this car is it did land back on all four wheels after was said and done. Plus it being FI it more or less kicked the intertia switch too, if it had one.

If it landed on its wheels it should be ok, depending on the rollover it may or may not have enough impact to trip the inertia switch.

 

[dangerranger83]

But now that I know what years and vehicles to look for I may be set. Also if I find a few that is true FI, i will probably pop valve covers and pull a push rod measure it and go from there. And if I go to a HO cam, all I have to do is get a dizzy gear thats for a HO engine and just put it on the dizzy and be good?

Right now the goal is to get the engine and go from there...and all of this will lead to a rear axle swap too (and hopefully not a front axle swap), but thats another story.

 

[Psychopete]

The dist shafts are a different size. You need a dist from a 1985 Mustang 5.0L HO with a manual transmission with a roller cam & carb. Flat out easiest way to do it. No reason to not get a roller motor. Probably be cheaper and less work to get an HO engine if you want an HO spec cam.

Non-HO engines had roller cams, too. Not just an HO engine needs a steel distributor gear, a 5.0L with a roller cam does.

The later the better, get away from these early/mid-80s engines. They are old and tired, and are going to cost you more in the long run. Paying a little more for something better to start with will go a long way. Get something that you can just put you intake & carb on, dump your dist in, and drive. Cracking the engine open is an instant loss of money just in gaskets, among with what ever the reason is for cracking it open in the first place.

 

[dangerranger83]

Im going to open the engine up to replace the gaskets and above all put a HV oil pump in it anyways plus gives me a nice inside look at it too. I figure while its out of the truck, might as well go ahead and do the mods and things to it now rather then later.

Basiclly thats what i want to do, just slap a carb intake on it and be good (along with what i said above), tired of messing with wiring plus love a carbed engine, just has a very clean old school look to it too.

Good advice on the Mustang HO dizzy, may just go that route.

Keep the advice comming, really helps out. Hopefully going this saturday back to the Jy this saturday to go pop more hoods and get a price from them on an engine (along with getting a rear tail light, I busted the driverside one).