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carb help


well i followed all the wires and they all go into the harness either into the cab or around the engine compartment. i did test each wire and that particular one had power all the time. seems odd that its so different than yours.. anyway the one next to it had power only when the battery was turned on and the top most wire had power only when the engine was running. so i hooked the choke up to that wire and we'll see how she starts tomorrow morning. again thanks for all your help. its cool to stick it out with me like this til i could figure it out. so i'll let ya know how she starts tomorrow when i get on here again
 
yea just push the peddle down once and start it see what it does if the coil is good in the thermostat and everything adjusted right you should be good if it opens but not all the way turn it back after the engine is up to temp the bitch is you have to let it cool down all the way to see how you did and after every adjustment good job let me know Kim
 
well it starts up better. i still have to hold the gas at first for a little bit but not as long. it seems as if it'd work better if it was hooked up so it'd come one when i turned the ignition on then you could let it warm up for a few seconds before starting. since it opens up so slow. but its a lot better than without it thats for sure
 
choke

cool does the choke close all the way when cold push the peddle down once it should close all the way and when you start it the vacuum will open it a little and the high idle screw will open the throttle under the hood there should be a sticker to tell you the high idle setting I just set it by ear. Somwhere on the choke thermostat is a mark that you line up with a mark on the carb it should tell you that also. there is no power to the choke till you start the motor I like to get the engine up to temp thenadjust the choke to where it opens all the way. then wait till it`s cold agaidn and see how much tension is on the spring after you start it. there is a cam to hold the throttle open so adjust to a speed you like like around 1500 rpm I am try to send you a copy of my carb kit instructions added it to photo bucket it will give you an idea of how to adjust it
 
the choke is supposed to open slow it gives you a rich condition until the engine warms up when you push on the throttle it will open for you once it gets warm adjust your idle needles I would start off turning them both in until lightly seated then out 1 1/2 turns once warm turn each one slowly in till it stutters then back out till it smoothes out I do 1/4 turn on each to keep them even back them both out evenly for the highest idle then back in until it starts to drop then adjust you idle where you want it you will have to adjust the high idle again after that. If you take your time and get it dialed in right you should be good gl Kim
 
well i think i got it all tuned to work good. its starting up a whole lot easier in the morning now than it used to. im still getting around 10mpg which is frustrating since its the whole reason i did the carb swap..
 
Mpg

Yea that is why I durasparked my 2.8l for mileage and more power pulling my boat. still have not got it done yet but will be happy with 17 mpg as long as I have enough power. from what I have been reading 10 is good for your setup one guy said he is getting 17 to 18 with different axel gears and a five speed manual is your engine running off a computer I`m guessing not for the year. maybe your speedo is off and have you timed it I always check compression and timing and here lately the vacuum since I got the guage. you have a timing belt also check it for wear. sounds like it is running good now. I like to run the engine at a high rpm and trickle some automatic tranny oil in the carb till it starts to die then burn that out for a couple minutes then do the same with water it gets the valves spinning good and the water cleans the carbon off get it on the freeway and blow it out good. I am sure the neighbors dont like it tho the tranny oil makes a pretty nice cloud especially if its not windy. I like the idea of A 302 in a ranger I`m gonna start looking for one with a blown engine and do a build early 80s ranger 302 overdrive tranny and posi rear would be my ideal boat pulling machine if you can add a front axel to that even better. Oh yea the tranny oil plays hell with cat which I plan on changing since I am sure its toast for all the oil its been getting from the leaky valve guides I hope to change this weekend. As you can tell bored here being under employed but sounds like an upgrade is in your future so good luck it`s like im addicted to TRS now just like reading all the threads.
 
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yeah i got the timing to where it runs the best. go my vacuum lines all figured out im pretty sure. i regeared my axles to 4.10s hoping to improve my gas mileage but it didnt do anything. i guess my only other option is drop in a bigger motor but im 16 and have no money haha. i think i might try seafoaming my engine again since last time it spit out a good bit of black stuff im guessing carbon from the tailpipe but i didnt use a lot or let it sit for very long. im also going to look for a more stock air filter setup. right now its one of those chrome "cool" ones with no housing around it. maybe that'll help out idk.
 
If you did not set the timing with a light I doubt that you have it where it needs to be at least check it with a light that could be part of your mpg issues
 
mustang forum

I believe your engine ws also put in the 79 mustang maybe you can get the tune up specs there if they are any different
 
well i had it at top dead center with my neighbors light but then it had no power at all i could hardly get up to speed on the main road so i adjusted it again and his light broke so i've got it a little advanced. i tried running it at a few different positions and the mileage never changed. but i'll look into the mustang forums. thanks a lot
 
high school

Are you still in school if you have an auto shop take it there and let the guys tune it up for you might be worth a shot you know get the parts together plugs cap rotor plug wires filters oil you know give it a once over if you havn`t done so yet they could probably find the specs also timing gap depending on the shop adjust the carb with a guage maybe oh yea a timing belt that way you know what`s been done that is you plan on driving it for a while
 
yeah idk how that works at my school if you've gotta be in the class or not. but i've done all the maintenance i can think of. so far for gas mileage ive done spark plugs, changed to fully synthetic oil, wires, cap and rotor, replaced the carb, changed my gears from 3.73 to 4.10, seafoamed my engine, adjusted timing, tried different ports for my vacuum lines which hasnt seemed to change anything whatsoever, i mean i've done everything i can think of except completely going through the engine which when i bought it was supposedly rebuilt 10,000 miles ago. i could go lower gears but i'm broke now. and i thought maybe a new exhaust would help since mine has so many leaks in it and it doesnt even have a cat on it.
 
You can always ask the shop teacher yea if your engine dont have adequate back pressure will defineatly effect performance you dont need the cat unless you need to pass emisions but a good exhaust system could help is it leaking at the manifold or does the pipe have holes if you can told your hand over the tailpipe and engine still runs you definately have a problem that needs to be addressed fuel is the only thing that cools the valves and without backpressure you can burn a valve
 

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