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Carb and Intake???


I have the timing set about +2* with an MSD cap and rotor with an accel coil. No duraspark or fancy stuff. Was a cheapo when I set it up on this truck. Holley lists my carb as a 0-7448. I couldnt find the kit so I gave up. If you could pm me with address and price for completely rebuilding the carb I would be most grateful and get it sent out ASAP

2*BTDC is retarded too much. Should be at least 10* BTDC like mikepotts said. Usually 10-14 BTDC is what they like. And you still didn't answer my question about your ignition system. Got points? or is it electronic ? The reason for this is most "carb problems" aren't the carb's fault, it's the ignition causing it. Especially if you're running points. You can bolt a brand new carb on it and it'll still run like shiot if there's a problem with the ignition.
 
Im running points. It ran fine when I first got it and then it started messing up. It will idle fine and run fine below about 1800-2000 rpm but when you get on the road to open it up it starts buckin and sputtering and dies out. It will always crank right back up tho. Thats what made me think carb. We have adjusted it in every possible way and it still does the same thing no matter what
 
The points are your problem. Ditch em for a Pertronix I, II or crane XR-1, or any of the other drop in electronic conversion modules. Points, at best only last about 6 months (that's with a top of the line set) before needing adjustment. The very best will only last maybe a year (total), and need to be adjusted at least every 6 months. While you're at it, check the vacuum advance to see if it's actually working. Pull the cap and disconnect the vacuum line from the carb, then while looking at the internals of the distributor, suck on the vac. hose and see if the breaker plate moves. I'll bet the points are out of adjustment, or toast. That's more than likely your "carb" problem.
 
As I said above, the cap and rotor and points are all brand new. I think I said that anyway. They are set to 11 thou like they should be. It runs the same way no matter if the points are new or old.
 
they might be set perfectly and new...sorry for my honesty, but they still SUCK! i say that with the utmost respect to you personally. if you forget and leave the key on without the engine running for more than a minute, youve burned up the points! get electronic it is too cheap to NOT do. plus, in my old maverick, we converted from perfectly set points to a duraspark ignition and went from 9.30's to 8.60's in the 1/8th mile! gained reliability and power.
 
Could the points be doing that much damage? I have left my key on plenty of times for a few seconds and never thought about it. What kind of igniton setup do you guys suggest for cheap?
 
Does the 84 have the plug for electronic ignition from the factory? My 83 did.

If it does just get a ditributor and box and your set. If it does i'll sell you a set up cheap.
 
There are about 5 wires left in my truck under the hood that work. There is no computer either. I dont have any wires under there
 
Could the points be doing that much damage? I have left my key on plenty of times for a few seconds and never thought about it. What kind of igniton setup do you guys suggest for cheap?

Yes, they suck that bad. And who told you that 11 thousandths was the correct setting? 17 thou is a starting point, after that you must use a dwell meter to fine tune them. Leaving the ignition on ends up most times burning up the contacts. Points are the reason that multiple carb setups got such a bad rap. Most times, it wasn't the carb tuning that made them run bad, it was the points ignition. I've got a 3x2 setup that I ran in my Ranger for a year and now been in my 77 Comet for two years and I've yet to have to do anything to the carb adjustment. Runs just as well as it did after I tuned em the first time.
 
Okay well maybe it was 17 thou. Been a while honestly since I set them. The entire distributor thats on it now only has maybe an hour worth of time on it. I bought the entire new distributor and cap and rotor when I rebuilt the engine and swapped it into my truck. So whats the best thing I could do now to diagnose the problem? New points and set them correctly?
 
Ditch the points and install an electronic conversion module. Trust me, you'll bang your head on the wall for not doing it sooner. The cost of a new set of points plus a dwell meter will cover the cost of a module. And with the module, you'll be done with it forever. You can save the points set for when someone decides to pop a nuke in the atmosphere and unleash an EMP pulse.
 
Never used that stuff before so can anybody get a link to a set I should look at?
 
Pertronix I or II, or Crane's XR-1. I've used all three. There are others as well that are as good Look em up on Summit Racing or Jegs. "electronic conversion module"
 
Go to ebay and search this number
170325152667 or aceautoparts4u
thats what i have been running for a while with no problems.All you need is a coil and your ready to run.

under a 100 bucks and you have a brand new dizzy.
 

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