build thread for 2.8 carb to chevy tbi.

[Lil-Pony]

And for the record, the JB WELD was all rico. I had no hand in that

will it hold with the presence of fuel, stupid question,

 

[cammeddrz]

It has been on his truck for like a year that way. rather than having a hose/fitting shop do it, he tried welding a a fitting on himself. There is weld under there. He just packed jb weld around it to seal it up

 

[Lil-Pony]

what will i do with the evrv sol or egr controll a4 and the EGR switch Signal B9 if im deleting it or will my existing egr work?

also what to do with the EAC/AIR C1/C2 my AIR pump has been removed im not worried about emissions.

next on the coil, what does IGN SW PIN l1 and INST CLSTR run to/do

finally i read else where think a jeep site that the VSS needs to be hooked up just cause this is referred to as the DIGITAL RATIO ADAPTER CONTROLLER in the pdf, is there a way to utilize this, i know it will work with out it but you know. wireing harness is making much more sense tho.

 

[cammeddrz]

Vss does not "need" to be hooked up. Just like all the other systems that you are deleting.

and like those systems, if they are hooked up it will run that much more efficiently.

Rico's does not run a vss input, and my v8 with gm ecm has been driven every day for the last 3 years without a vss input

 

[Lil-Pony]

ok so i can delete the egr, block it off, dont use the wires for it or the air solenoid, and no need for the vss, bout the coil wires?

 

[Kadams87]

ok so i can delete the egr, block it off, dont use the wires for it or the air solenoid, and no need for the vss, bout the coil wires?

you can delete the EGR but that one will throw a code, So will the AIR. Deleting the EGR without getting it tuned out of the computer could cause some driveablity issues and loss in milage. I would tune it and the AIR out so the ECM isn't trying to command functions that don't exist. It shouldn't really matter not having VSS cause you aren't running a tranny with it.

What are you wondering about the coil wires?

 

[Lil-Pony]

The two wires that lead off page?

 

[Kadams87]

The two wires that lead off page?

on chevy diagrams or the Bronco 2 diagrams

 

[Lil-Pony]

on chevy diagrams or the Bronco 2 diagrams

Srry on the chevy diagram

 

[Kadams87]

The Pink Wire labeled "IGN SW PIN 1" goes to the ignition switch, Should have power in Run and Start but not ACC positions, the White is for your tach.

Sorry I just read back and saw where you specifically asked about those wires. Sometimes the old brain misses a step

 

[Lil-Pony]

Great thanks thats what i thought but i wanted to make sure!

 

[cammeddrz]

Ok, I think kadams is just hell-bent on making this more
complicated than it needs to be.

Just about 20 parts of this swap will "throw a code" so focusing on any single one is pointless.

The whole glory of this is how stupid-simple it is. No need to "tune" this, or burn a chip for that.....

You have a carburetor currently which is horribly inefficient anyway, this swap will give you the dave level of efficiency (or better) while not flooding/bogging on inclines while off-roading

There is no need for ford wiring diagrams because the 4 wires you need are easily located under the hood (batt, coil, start, those are all you need to tap into on the ford)

I think you and kadams are overthinking the bejesus out of this

 

[cammeddrz]

On your coil wires, you need +/- going to the coil (which your coil already has), and the pink wire then is piggy-backed onto the +, and the white wire is piggy-backed onto the - to give the ecm/est module a tach reference to know when to fire the the injectors

 

[Kadams87]

Ok, I think kadams is just hell-bent on making this more
complicated than it needs to be.

Just about 20 parts of this swap will "throw a code" so focusing on any single one is pointless.

The whole glory of this is how stupid-simple it is. No need to "tune" this, or burn a chip for that.....

You have a carburetor currently which is horribly inefficient anyway, this swap will give you the dave level of efficiency (or better) while not flooding/bogging on inclines while off-roading

There is no need for ford wiring diagrams because the 4 wires you need are easily located under the hood (batt, coil, start, those are all you need to tap into on the ford)

I think you and kadams are overthinking the bejesus out of this

Not to be rude and I know I'm a new guy here on the forum, but I only noticed two things mentioned that are going to possibly throw codes. I guess it comes down to how clean you want the swap to be. It's very simple, you're right. I don't think I'm over thinking it at all to be honest, I'm just very attentive to a lot of details at once. However my goal is not to cause confusion so I do Apologize for any that I caused.

 

[Lil-Pony]

I thank kadams for all this cause i want this swap to look as clean as possible so least amount of wires under hood. Most splicing will be done incab needing the interior diagram. Im not burning no chip until i gain access to the tools to do it my self being im studying electrical engineering, and have one hell of an school supplied with almost everything.