Brakes for a 32" tire

[RangerNielsen]

So I got my 32s on the truck today, and noticed that stopping is pretty challenging. What kind I brakes do y'all run or recommend? Or any upgrades to the truck I can do to stop easier?
Thanks

 

[Mark_88]

When I first put on 15" rims braking was a bit challenging also...but it turned out I simply needed new calipers, rotors and pads...and the flex lines on the front were also shot causing the brakes to lock up.

Adjusting the rears up a bit helps also, but they do less than the fronts over all and should not be taking too much of the load...

Others have upgraded to rear disks, but that shouldn't be a necessity for this type of modification.

 

[RangerNielsen]

Ok. I was looking at my pads and I still have quite a bit of brakes left. my right rotor is kinda warped (if you run your finger from the hub to the outside theres a bump). I have 32x11.50r15 on the truck and it defiantly takes alot more work to stop the truck.

 

[JoshT]

Still running stock brakes with 32s, but it's also a 99 model so braking components might be a little different. It is harder to stop than I would like but I think that the brakes on the truck are adequate, I just need to bring the system up to spec. The system has probably never been bled (can't even loosen the rear bleeders), and the lines are 14 years old.

My recommendation would be check over the system replacing worn parts (pay close attention to the hoses), bleed the system, and allow more stopping distance. I know not the answer you wanted, but it's the best one that I can give.

 

[RangerNielsen]

My recommendation would be check over the system replacing worn parts (pay close attention to the hoses), bleed the system, and allow more stopping distance. I know not the answer you wanted, but it's the best one that I can give.

Actually, your answer is quite useful. I do plan on bleeding them but no one is willing to help me. and I don't tail gate as it is but I do allow more distance for stopping now anyways. I was also involved in a 55mph head on in my 78 f150 so brakes are something really high on my list.

 

[JoshT]

I was also involved in a 55mph head on in my 78 f150 so brakes are something really high on my list.

Never been in a major wreck due to brakes. Minor fender bender (no brake lights on other cat and my brakes locked up) that resulted in my front bumper getting bent (84 Ranger), but no damage to other car.

I'm with you on the brakes though. I learned about inadequate brakes on my dad's old 68 F100. That 390 FE would pull anything, but that doesn't mean it would stop it. The 4x4 and oversized tires didn't help either. That's why I start any build (actual or wish book build) by looking into what can be done for brakes and suspension, then I'll look into engine. IMO if the truck can't stop or handle the power there's no point in having the power.

The first step in building my V8, 2wd, 86 Ranger was to find the best brakes I could afford for it, then I went a step further. I've probably got about 3000 in the truck right now. $500 was the truck itself, $500 for the complete Explorer donor, and ~$500 bucks for miscellaneous parts for the engine swap. I have $1500+ in brakes and suspension, a thousand in the front brakes alone. The rear disks were free with the Explorer; and I'm not counting the upgraded sway bars, full poly bushing set, or upgraded shocks because I've had those sitting on the shelf for years for the truck I totaled. Just wish I had time/energy/motivation/weather to get all those parts installed.

I won't do any upgrades to the 99 though. I think it would be find with bleeding the system. Plan to swap back to stock size tires and sell the truck in the next couple years, so I'll spend enough to keep the truck safe and road worthy, but no more upgrades unless it helps sell the truck. Engine is getting tired and I'd rather get (or build) a full size than dump the money into rebuilding this engine. Want to build dad's old 68 since it's been parked for years. First step on it if finding a replacement body. Then it'll be finding out which late model super duty solid axles with 4 wheel disk brakes will fit under it and fit properly. Drop it back down to just high enough to clear 31-33 inch tires, don't need a lot of articulation around here. Beef up the motor, bump up compression, aftermarket heads, and swap in fuel injection. Then find a 5 speed manual with extra low first and overdrive.

 

[RangerNielsen]

Never been in a major wreck due to brakes. Minor fender bender (no brake lights on other cat and my brakes locked up) that resulted in my front bumper getting bent (84 Ranger), but no damage to

It's not as much as the brakes were inadequate, cause I could stop the truck from 60 rather easily, if I had the room. I've never gotten those brakes to lock up on dry pavement but iny accident I had to stop it from 55 in the distance of your typical left turn lane. I locked up all 4 tires too. But I brought that up since its pretty difficult to stop my 88 with the bigger tires so I want to know I can stop in a hurry so I do t have to leave a 10+ second gap.

 

[JoshT]

That wasn't on dry pavement, but similar situation. When I was taking about inadequate brakes I was more referring to the 68 F-100 I mentioned with it's four wheel drum brakes. I was always told that if you can't lock up your breaks (or engage the ABS) on dry pavement then your brake system is inadequate. Either you have a problem in the system that is causing it to not work the way it should, or you are asking them to perform outside their design parameters. Either the problem needs to be found, the load needs to be moved back within design parameters, or the system needs to be upgraded to handle the new load. If you can lock them up on dry pavement the system is adequate, anything more is overkill. Personally I really like overkill. That's not saying that you want to lock them up to stop, but best braking occurs just before they lock. If you can lock the brakes then you can hit that sweet spot, it just takes practice and experience to hold it there without locking them.

Still I've given all the help that I can on this matter, sorry I couldn't offer more. Good luck with your search! Please post up what ever solution you find, someday it might help someone with the same issue.

 

[adsm08]

Lots of upgrades can be done to the 88 braking system.

A dana 35 with 95 to 97 knuckles is a nice upgrade to the front. An Explorer disc rear is also nice.

 

[Surrey]

Isn't there a bolt-on drum upgrade for the 7.5 as well? Something to do with pulling 10" drums off an aerostar I think?

Probably in the tech library...

 

[kryptonitecb]

I had 33's and drums, it would stop without any issues. Now I have 37's with disk all around and can lock up tires sometimes. Sounds like your brake system needs a once over.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic

 

[RangerNielsen]

When I press the pedal, I get about 1/3 down and the pedal locks up and is like trying to stop the truck like its off. I havent tried to lock the tires up with the 32s, never had a chance: the line blew out of the slave 8 miles later. So shes a sitting duck for now.

Lots of upgrades can be done to the 88 braking system.

A dana 35 with 95 to 97 knuckles is a nice upgrade to the front. An Explorer disc rear is also nice.

How hard is it to swap in a D35 and the knuckles? and the 8.8 out of an exploder? this is also helpful in the sense that I want away from my D28 and welded 7.5.

 

[Frank The Tank]

I say run it for a month and see if you aren't used to it yet. I'm thinking its more of a 'feel' thing. I had 31's on a 88 B2. In a panick situation it stopped faster than with 28's... Just took some getting used to.

You may find a higher quality pad is all you ry need...

 

[RangerNielsen]

Ok. I blew the line out of the slave and its not staying in so I have to replace the slave and I also picked up a 94 that needs clutch work so I'm torn between which to fix first. The 88s body is messed up (only good panels are the doors and tailgate, but that does t open very well) and the 94 is pretty straight so my parents want me to fix that one first. That's what I thinking about its just a feel thing. Like switching to a vehicle that you haven't driven before or atleast for a while. What pads do you recommend?

 

[Frank The Tank]

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_years/ford-ranger-brake-pad-set-1994.html


Something like these.

Green Stuffs. Or Yellow Stuffs. Not anymore money than the 'Golds'
At advance auto.

I typically go to Advance (I get a discount) and say what's your best brake pad? Ok give me the first one cheaper than that. Lol.

If you have your rear drums redone and in good working order you will be shocked at how much better it is. Most drums on old trucks do little to nothing.