Brake line flare nut thread size/part id help

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I've never heard of double wall brake line. A double flare for sure is required. And that is what I thought he meant by " double wall "...

 

[Uncle Gump]

 

[MK667]

Alright, I can confirm that the thread size for both ends of the rear passenger side hard brake line is 3/8-24. I had to cut the line at the block and then lightly hammered an 11mm socket onto the nut. It came off pretty easy. I bent my Nicopp line and got both of those hooked up. It's pretty atrocious looking, but it is in. Line bending is definitely a skill that needs some practice.

I went to go put my drum on and I am getting hung up on the pads. The wheel cylinder is compressed in and the shoes are where they need to be on the top, but I can tell from looking at the backing plate that towards the bottom on the right shoe, I'm not resting on a contact point. I have the wheel adjuster closed all the way. I was able to shift that shoe over to the correct position, but when I do that, it shifts the left shoe and I still can't get it on. The shoes I have came in a crate of parts from the guy i bought the truck from. I thought, maybe these are the wrong shoes? I went to advanced auto and bought some so I could compare.

The shoe that has the rivets on the pad is a new one i pulled from the crate o parts. The non rivet one is the one i just got from advanced auto. The old one i pulled off's brake pad position matches the one i bought from advanced auto. The metal frame the pads sit on are the same size on all of them. So i'm not sure if the position of the pad is what is hanging me up. They have the same amount of brake pad, they are just positioned on the metal in different spots.

 

[Uncle Gump]

So... the two shoes you have pictured... it appears you have a secondary shoe (no rivets) and a primary shoe (riveted lining).

The shorter lining is the primary shoe and is put as the forward shoe on the backing plate. Longer lining goes on the rearward side.

FYI... Riveted shoes are typically the heavy duty variety. Rivers are stronger then bonding.

If ya can't get it together... pictures please. Those are really helpful.

 

[MK667]

So... the two shoes you have pictured... it appears you have a secondary shoe (no rivets) and a primary shoe (riveted lining).

The shorter lining is the primary shoe and is put as the forward shoe on the backing plate. Longer lining goes on the rearward side.

FYI... Riveted shoes are typically the heavy duty variety. Rivers are stronger then bonding.

If ya can't get it together... pictures please. Those are really helpful.

That's the thing, it appears I have different shoe types, but they are both primary shoes (less pad). That shoe on the right with the rivets, it's like they took the pad and slid it further down the steel part. Both shoes in that picture have the same length of pad, they are just in different spots on the metal. I'll try and take some better pictures!

Here is one i have on my phone at the moment. Top Rivet primary shoe from crate o parts. Bottom is primary shoe i just took off my truck. Same length of pads on both.

Also, I did not know that about the riveted pads, good to know! Thanks Uncle Gump, I'll get some better pictures. Maybe i can do a panorama on it and show the whole thing.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Honestly... it looks like you had a secondary shoe in the primary position to me.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Do you have a full set of the riveted shoes?

 

[MK667]

Honestly... it looks like you had a secondary shoe in the primary position to me.

I have a full set of riveted shoes on the truck right now, and a full set of non riveted I just bought to compare.

Here are some better pictures. This is the passenger side. Pic 1, I'm holding the primary shoe i just bought from advanced auto next to the primary on the truck that came in the crate of parts. I haven't even taken the advanced auto secondary shoes fully out of the plastic wrap yet.

In this one I'm holding the Old pads(left), AA i just bought (center), crate brakes(right). All primary, all roughly 8.5" of pad length vs 10" of pad length on the secondary. It's like the ones on my truck when they put the pads on the steel part they accidentally put it down 2" lower than they should have.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Quality isn’t what it used to be…

 

[Uncle Gump]

This picture clearly shows the secondary shoe held off the anchor pin.

Those riveted shoes look proper to me. Likely just a better quality set of shoes. I'd take the other set back.

The wavy washer on the park brake lever pin should go on before the pin goes through the shoe. Ensure the horse shoe clip is in the groove before squeezing it down. It just doesn't look correct to me as it is.

 

[sgtsandman]

View attachment 135119

I learned something here. I thought brake line was single wall. At least it always looked that way after cutting and before flairing.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

When I think of double wall I picture chimney tubing. An outer skin surrounding an inner skin. What @Uncle Gump describes is not what I would call double wall. But I'm not an expert or deal with tubing a lot either.

 

[MK667]

This picture clearly shows the secondary shoe held off the anchor pin.

View attachment 135234

Those riveted shoes look proper to me. Likely just a better quality set of shoes. I'd take the other set back.

The wavy washer on the park brake lever pin should go on before the pin goes through the shoe. Ensure the horse shoe clip is in the groove before squeezing it down. It just doesn't look correct to me as it is.

Yeah you're right, barely looks like it's coming through. Whoever did these brakes last time had them right behind the horse shoe clip. I'll correct that tomorrow and see if anything gives, thanks for taking a look. The other thing i thought to check was the self adjuster. That also came in the crate o parts along with the springs and shoes. I have the old one but that sucker is rusted open, I've had it soaking in penetrating oil. I'll hit it with the torch and see if I can't get it moving again.