Brake caliper

[Effieman]

I finally replaced all the control arms/ball joints on the front end of my 98 Ranger 4X4. Then I could hear what sounded similar to a bad wheel bearing, but it would actually get quiet after about 25 mph. Got the front end up in the air, and the it's hard to turn the wheel, like the brake is stuck on. Guessing I need new caliper since it's the original that's on there.
My question is: would it be worth my time to try to bleed the brakes first? Or is there actually something else that could create that situation? Or should I just go ahead and get a new caliper/rebuild(?) it?

 

[pentode]

My first guess wouldn't be air in the line but it could be there's a chunk of something stuck in the line somewhere preventing the fluid from getting back up into the master cylinder. If you were to attach a foot or so of clear tubing to the bleeder and crack it, you should be able to see the fluid suck back up the tube as you let off the pedal. (Crude but it's the quickest way I can think of to check for a clogged line. Obviously you'd do this as though you were going to bleed the brakes and then you'll have to bleed that corner unless you're super slick and let zero air in)

Assuming the caliper is rusty inside, I know most people would just get a new (reman) caliper but because I'm cheap I usually take apart the old one and assess just how pitted the piston and bore are, and assuming they're within reason, I just clean them up and replace the seals with the $2 kit. You could even use a brake caliper hone to clean up the bore but because I'm cheap, I just use fine emery cloth. You can usually get a cheap replacement piston for most cars too.

I've done 15-20 calipers like that over the years and no crashes yet

 

[Effieman]

My first guess wouldn't be air in the line but it could be there's a chunk of something stuck in the line somewhere preventing the fluid from getting back up into the master cylinder. If you were to attach a foot or so of clear tubing to the bleeder and crack it, you should be able to see the fluid suck back up the tube as you let off the pedal. (Crude but it's the quickest way I can think of to check for a clogged line)

Assuming the caliper is rusty inside, I know most people would just get a new (reman) caliper but because I'm cheap I usually take apart the old one and assess just how pitted the piston and bore are, and assuming they're within reason, I just clean them up and replace the seals with the $2 kit. You could even use a brake caliper hone to clean up the bore but because I'm cheap, I just use fine emery cloth. You can usually get a cheap replacement piston for most cars too.

I've done 15-20 calipers like that over the years and no crashes yet

When you mentioned the line, I remembered that I recently had the ABS light come on for the first time ever in the truck. When I checked the fluid level it was a little low, but since the brakes worked as always, I didn't think much more of it.
Never have rebuilt a front caliper, but figured it would be as simple as a rear. Of course, I haven't rebuilt one of those in over 20 years. LOL
Quick search I can find pistons for around $20 and seals for under $10, and complete caliper for around $70.
Being cheap myself, I think I'll get the seals and go from there......

Thanks for the info.

 

[pentode]

When you mentioned the line, I remembered that I recently had the ABS light come on for the first time ever in the truck. When I checked the fluid level it was a little low, but since the brakes worked as always, I didn't think much more of it.
Never have rebuilt a front caliper, but figured it would be as simple as a rear. Of course, I haven't rebuilt one of those in over 20 years. LOL
Quick search I can find pistons for around $20 and seals for under $10, and complete caliper for around $70.
Being cheap myself, I think I'll get the seals and go from there......

Thanks for the info.

I would just say check for extra crusty lines/collapsed hoses first, then dig into the caliper.

Quick check on RockAuto reveals calipers for $45-50, pistons for $8-10, and seals repair kit for $2-3... FYI That's assuming you want to be as cheap as me. Few do.

I haven't replaced a piston on the Ranger before but most of the old cars I've worked on had chromed pistons that held up pretty well against rust. You just have to bear in mind you need a good sealing surface on the piston and the groove where the seal goes in the bore also needs to seal well. If there is a leak, the dust boot will fill up with fluid pretty quick so you'll know.

 

[Effieman]

When I had the front end rebuilt, I had to return some parts (and did so early in the morning) so I have a gift card at O'Riellys, otherwise I would accept your 'cheap challenge'. LOL
Again, thanks for the info, really appreciate it.

 

[sgtsandman]

Another thing to look for is if the interior of the brake hose has collapsed. The hose looks fine on the outside but is "flapping" around inside, acting like a check valve. If the brake hoses are original, that may be your issue if the caliper itself and the caliper slide pins are in good shape.