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Bought a Shortblock today.


OK, I see the F1SE casting numbers now.The date code is behind and on the bottom of the very rear of the block. The main caps still look a little beefier than the earlier ones though for some reason. In any case you still made a good buy. Make sure you plug that threaded hole at the rear on the driver's side, that's the drain hole for the coolant jacket. I'd check to see what cam is in there too. It could be an F4TE, B303 or E303 grind.
 
OK, I see the F1SE casting numbers now.The date code is behind and on the bottom of the very rear of the block. The main caps still look a little beefier than the earlier ones though for some reason. In any case you still made a good buy. Make sure you plug that threaded hole at the rear on the driver's side, that's the drain hole for the coolant jacket. I'd check to see what cam is in there too. It could be an F4TE, B303 or E303 grind.

I'll check it out, and post what i find.Thanks.
 
Didn't find any numbers or letters on the cam. Where would they be? Thanks
 
Didn't find any numbers or letters on the cam. Where would they be? Thanks

Look just behind the dist gear for a bunch of X's and a couple leters stamped in. Leters TE would be an explorer cam. That's probably what that engine has acording to it's specs in you'r earlier post link.
 
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I just so happen to have an Explorer cam sitting on the desk next to me and it no has stampings or numbers on it whatever. The FRPP cams are stamped. The link posted did show for that part number that it would have the Explorer cam. Have to measure it to really be sure, that's what I just did.
Dave of the Nord
 
Hmm, maybe the explorer engine I dissasembled was a replacement.:icon_confused:
 
Look just behind the dist gear for a bunch of X's and a couple leters stamped in. Leters TE would be an explorer cam. That's probably what that engine has acording to it's specs in you'r earlier post link.
Are you talking about those numbers being behind the front cam bearing, Nothing there. On the rear face of the back bearing there is a date stamp. Didn't buy that cam but came in the short block. I think the "B" cam I have is marked on the front of the first bearing. If anyone ever, ever learns why Ford does things the way they do, pass it on!
Dave
 
The Ford Alphabet cams are usually stamped on the rear face. The O.E. cams can be i'd by measuring the lobe lifts. The HO cam lobes are .278/.278, The F4TE is .264/.280, the Cobra cam is .282/.282 The base roller is .237/.247
 
Are you talking about those numbers being behind the front cam bearing, Nothing there. On the rear face of the back bearing there is a date stamp. Didn't buy that cam but came in the short block. I think the "B" cam I have is marked on the front of the first bearing. If anyone ever, ever learns why Ford does things the way they do, pass it on!
Dave

I will admit ford had no rhyme or reason to their markings on cams.:icon_confused:
But the cams I have all have a bunch of X's stamped around behind the dist. drive gear with a couple leters, TE on the explorer cam ZE on the mustang H/O cam, and an A on the early F series and Crown vic cams. Still the best way to tell is to measure for shure.
 
I got the old engine out today. I took the heads off to inspect the pistons. That engine is completely wore out. The pistons have a lot of side to side play, the crank has a lot end play. The cam i took out and it looks pitted. I'll try to post a video of the wear.

With the cam looking messed up what should i check on the lifters to see that they are good? Just the roller ends?



I forgot to mention. The distributor gear was messed up as well. The teeth were wore down and had sharp edges.
 
If the cam lobes look that bad, the lifters are toast. Put it all in the scrap bin.
 
Ok. If have to get new roller lifters where is a good place to go? Should i look for used ones first?
 
Ok. If have to get new roller lifters where is a good place to go? Should i look for used ones first?

Depends on what you want out of the valve train. If you're fine with a 6000 rpm rev limit, the O.E. lifters are fine, even those that are used out of another motor that doesn't have the obvious wear yours does. If you want to go to the liimts of a hydro roller (7500 rpms) then I recommend a new set of Comp Cams O.E. type hydro rollers. These are what I went to in my 331 (and the earlier 5.0 I had my Canfeilds on) You'll pay nearly twice for the Comp lifters over a new set of Ford Racing O.E lifters, but they're worth every penny.
 
I have another question.

The piece that screws into the block that the oil filter screws onto, where can i get one?

I burgered up the threads on the one i have trying to get it out of the block. Thanks, Brian
 
A friend of mine has old 5.0 block at his shop,Ill check tomm and see if it still has one in it.
 

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