Bleeding the RBV Hydraulic System

[Bob Ayers]

Is your reading comprehension non-existent?

AS long as I can remember!!

 

[brendank]

now if you took the spacer out that goes between the engine and trans then the slave would not have to push the pressure plate as far to disengage the clutch.

you guys getting it yet?

You're suggesting removing the spacer plate?

You do realize that it's necessary for proper starter alignment, right??

 

[04 EDGE]

If he was close to correct, everybody with a hydraulic clutch would be in trouble as the disk wore...

bob, hate to say this but your somewhat correct.

now take in to consideration that the disk as it wears also takes off metal from the flywheel, sorta like a brake rotor does, now the flywheel has been machined, and the system only has so much reach built into it.

anyway, this is pointless. heres what the guy should do, take push rod out from under the dash, make is about .070" longer, all will be good.

 

[04 EDGE]

You're suggesting removing the spacer plate?

You do realize that it's necessary for proper starter alignment, right??

well i see your point, but you must not have seen my point.

 

[mjonesjr]

Enough is enough from all parties.

Consider this your warning.

 

[Will]

It's fawking self adjusting--like brakes. This is the most interesting line of argument I've ever seen.

 

[AllanD]

The misunderstanding here is that a thinner flywheel is almost irrelevant to clutch actuation the FORD manuals specify that the flywheel SHOULD be machined when the disc and cover are replaced during service.

they DO design surplus capacity into the system.

The "late" clutch master cylinder DOES NOT self bleed when mounted to the firewall.
The FORD manuals state that it does not.

Usually opening the bleeder screw to try to make the
clutch "just a little better" completely screws any hope
of getting it to keep working.

I ALWAYS cut my flywheels, I ALWAYS recommend to others that
they cut their flywheels, I have NEVER had a problem making a
clutch work on a cut flywheel, even on flywheels that I've personally
had machined several times.

That being said I've NEVER seen first hand anyone demonstrate that either
the 93-94 master cylinder OR the '95-up Master cylinder "self bleed" in situ.

I personally prefer completely removing them from the truck and bleeding
them "Nose up" on my work bench before installation.

You can call my younger brother the Senior-Master Tech and ask him
and he'll be happy to tell you or anyone else that you need to cut
back on your opium use if you choose to continue to claim otherwise

as for "disconnecting" the quick connect with the proper tool, that's a joke.
Because that has NOTHING to do with the internal O-ring that seals the dry
break couple actually sealing and not slowly dripping fluid over the hours you
have the transmission down (to replace the clutch) or days even weeks while
you rebuild a trans, and leaving the master cylinder high and dry and needing
to be bled.

And if the master cylinder needs to be bled the slave cylinder cannot be bled.

you can rant, rave, scream, shout invective, claim infinite experience,
and ultimatly deny that you are wrong until hell freezes, but you are WRONG.

This is NOT in debate except by you.

The slave cylinder has a capability of longer travel than it needs.
And as you "pump it out" (like a jack piston) it'll keep extending until it encounters resistance.

The slave is actually designed to have something like 3/8" more travel than it will EVER need for ANY situation.
(only about half of the design travel is ever used.)

the 0.010-0.020 of a flywheel cut is irrelevant because the slave normally has to move the Fingers many times the distance that the inertia ring actually moves to release the clutch.

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[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Thank you Allen.

 

[Bob Ayers]

well i see your point, but you must not have seen my point.

Seems like you are the only one that "sees your point"!

 

[04 EDGE]

Seems like you are the only one that "sees your point"!

ok bobbie i'll stoop to your level.

all you seem to do is create problems on these sites with your one sided arguments and your "anti mod" attitude.

seems like your the only idiot i see.

that being said allen please past facts to back up your claims.

this is pointless, seems that you guys have god like powers here and are not open to anyone elses opinion. what a shame. good job undermining another moderator and unlocking this thread so mr ayers can post useless crap !

i think i'll go clean and oil my k&N air filter.

 

[mjonesjr]

good job undermining another moderator and unlocking this thread so mr ayers can post useless crap !

I unlocked this thread, no one else did.

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

if youre so insitant that the cutting of the flywheel is causing the problem then why not satisfy your curiousity and put a shim between the crank and the flywheel to take up the difference that was machined off? i still think there is another problem because i have cut my flywheel 4 times at .020" each time and my pedal feel is still awesome. maybe i did something wrong 4 times in a row?

 

[04 EDGE]

i had to do this on a 92 F150 i used to have many many years ago. had the flywheel machined, re assembled everything and had the same problem as this thread starter, who has yet to respond to any of this. i had to take it all back apart and install a shim. after that it was good. i didn't have to mash the pedal all the way to the floor and then some to get the clutch to disengage.

my sons truck, same thing, i had the flywheel machined, put a shim in, and it is just like it should be, never any need to mash the pedal to the floor. and we put a new slave cylinder in it also. all i did was offer a solution to his problem, then the ranger gods intervened and look at the rest.

and then there is mr ayers,

 

[Jspafford]

i had to do this on a 92 F150 i used to have many many years ago. had the flywheel machined, re assembled everything and had the same problem as this thread starter, who has yet to respond to any of this. i had to take it all back apart and install a shim. after that it was good. i didn't have to mash the pedal all the way to the floor and then some to get the clutch to disengage.

my sons truck, same thing, i had the flywheel machined, put a shim in, and it is just like it should be, never any need to mash the pedal to the floor. and we put a new slave cylinder in it also. all i did was offer a solution to his problem, then the ranger gods intervened and look at the rest.

and then there is mr ayers,

Ranger Gods eh? So you HAVE met AllanD? He's forgotten more than most of us would ever want to know!

No wonder the dude's not come back, you jacked his thread and turned it into a bickering battlefield.

This argument is over.

 

[AllanD]

I really wish you wouldn't say that, I actually forget very little...

Except:
where I set my coffee cup down
what I did with that #^$#% 13mm wrench I had just a second ago...

And I ALWAYS forget to hunt down (and KILL) that gremlin that steals all
my #2 phillips screwdrivers.

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