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Big change of plans...


Range98

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2012
Messages
120
City
Pennsylvania
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Automatic
Well I gotta pull the engine back out to fix my oil pan some other odds and ends and I'm heavily considering switching my efi out for a carb setup. Has anyone else done this to an explorer engine ? I want to get a stand-alone computer and keep my trans but I'd put a nose cone and strip out all of my 4x4 equipment. I also figured it'd be much easier to cam and tune and engine successfully if it was carbed. anyone have any advice or parts they used on such a swap? I'm not sure how to go about making sure certain parts would fit the newer 302 and the gt40 heads like a manifold or cam. Any help would be great, Thanks!!
 
In my opinion that would be a complete waste of time and money, but if you are running the 4R70W trans (stock ex tranny) it relies on the ECU and the electronics of the motor to properly operate. What year ex did you use for a donor?

SVT
 
Two things.

1) Going to carb over an existing EFI setup is stupid.

2) In the great state of Pennsylvania that will make your truck illegal for operation on public roads.

I am not sure where exactly you are in PA, but I can see in your avatar pic that you have an Emissions sticker. How you gonna get it through emissions?

If you are in an OBDII county it will kick right away for the fuel injector circuit codes.

If you are in a visual county it will fail right away for lack of a fuel injection system.

Can't get a safety sticker without an emissions sticker, so you would be stuck keeping it under 5000 miles a year.
 
I was going to try to change my title to "custom built car" I believe it's called. But it's basically for modified vehicles which include complete engine swaps and then it'd be just a safety inspection, no emissions tests.
 
What problems are you having with the EFI that is making you consider carb? I know we can solve any problem you are having with EFI easier than it would be to convert to carb..

SVT
 
Yeah, what these guys said. What are your issues? Let us try and help.
 
Alright well first off I need a tune bad, the shift points are awful and it's killing gas but I have a check engine light saying the engine is lean. It starts like hell in the morning and sometimes runs fine other times runs awful. A non efi issue I'm having is my rear oil pan seal leaks when I turn the engine off or park on a hill but not while it's running. It surges or lags when I begin to accelerate. I'm thinking maybe a vacuum leak or a dirty maf sensor, what you guys think? Thanks for the help
 
All of those symptoms you listed, including possibly the shifting issue, could be attributed to a vacuum leak.
 
Is your speedo working? If not, your shift problems are directly related to this. The ECU determines the shift points from the OSS and VSS, which from your donor was through the ABS module. Your check engine light is related to emmisions. There is a sensor in the fuel tank from the donor that doesn't exist on the ranger. That will affect fuel economy. The trans shift points also affects fuel economy since the torque converter lockup solenoid is not functioning. Emmisions will affect a lean issue, but what type of exhaust are you running, do you have cats, and are you running all O2 sensors? Are all the O2 sensors working properly/need replacing? All these play important roles in a properly working V8 swap...


SVT
 
It starts like hell in the morning and sometimes runs fine other times runs awful.

Sir, you just described how a carb'd car runs.

I agree with Adsm - look at the simple issues first. A vacuum leak could be causing all of that. Also I would suggest checking your fuel pressure.

Sent from a Commodore 64 using a 300 baud modem
 
My speedo kinda works...I hook up my gps and it says I'm usually off 5 to 10 mph, but when I hit highway speeds it's pretty close to being right. As far as an exhaust I have my upstream sensors in right after the headers bend toward the back of the truck. No cats and the downstream are hooked in but not in the exhaust flow. No codes for malfunctioning o2 sensors. The truck didn't always run this bad as far as the rough idle and surging goes. The Rpms bump up and down randomly during idle even when the truck is warmed up
 
How do you get this pile through inspection?
 
What do you mean by "kinda works"?
 
Kinda works means going off my gps it is usually around 5-10 mph too fast but at highway speeds it reads its correct, I did the swap a month after I got it inspected last year. I planned on putting my cats in and hooking up the 02 sensors once inspection got closer
 

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