Best way to splice 8 gauge wire?

[OilPatch197]

Had chaffing on the 8 gauge charging wire from the alternator to starter on a GM Buick Regal.

The wire rubbed itself bare and burned in two! I had to fix this car, so I thought this would be easily, just splice the wires back together....


RIGHT! ...NO!

So I look in my electrical supplies, I had some crimps for 8 gauge wire from a subwoofer install kit, but my crimper only did 10 gauge and higher!

So I attempted to use the crimp with the crimper pliers, it did not hold. So I had a household 4-8 awg gauge splice kit you inset the wire and tighten the set screws and cover with heat shrink tubing.

I was worried that the screws would vibrate loose, so I had another option, split nut splices, and that is what I used, tightened it down and wrapped it like mad with electrical tape.

So my question is what should I use to splice this? I had to use what I had on hand, and would like to "do it right" I just don't see anything at the stores for automotive wire smaller than 10 gauge unless it's some stereo kit.

 

[Downey]

can you get a heat shrink crimp and just crimp it with pliers

 

[Mark_88]

You could probably use one of those battery connector (post) replacements...just cut off the battery connection, open the clamp end and insert both ends of the stripped wire and clamp them together...then wrap generously in electrical tape...I've had them last for years on my battery...but they do tend to corrode over time and if you spray them with silicone it helps keep the moisture out.

 

[Downey]

heat shrink would be a much better idea than electrical tape

 

[black_demon69]

solder and heat shrink tubing is what i use on all splices in cars and trucks

even been known for added strength to use some copper tubing with wires soldered inside and shrink tubed

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Solder and heat shrink.

 

[OilPatch197]

Solder and heat shrink.

and how do you make the mechanical connection with the wires? You just strip back the insulation, flux the wire and hold them side-by-side and solder it?

 

[Mark_88]

End to end would be smoother...solder is a good conductor so it will work either way.

 

[shane96ranger]

then wrap generously in electrical tape

The difference between electrical tape and heat shrink is quite similar to this:

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

and how do you make the mechanical connection with the wires? You just strip back the insulation, flux the wire and hold them side-by-side and solder it?

I usually try to avoid having to splice the larger wire gauges because it is a bit of a PITA. But once in awhile I haven't had much of a choice. On smaller gauge wires (10 gauge and smaller), you are supposed to strip back the insulation and twist the wires together to make a mechanical connection and then solder it. On 8 gauge wires and larger I have found this to be somewhat difficult to do without using a significant length of wire, which if I had to splice it, it usually ment that I did not have that much extra wire available. The other problem with the larger wires is trying to get enough heat to properly solder it (a torch seems to be the proper tool, lol). I've just stripped back an inch or so and jammed the wires together, then soldered the !@#$% out of it.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Low-Voltage...196?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item439bc8a2d4
I allways wondered how these would work just screw it tight and shrink wrap it on?

 

[Mark_88]

The difference between electrical tape and heat shrink is quite similar to this:

LOL...oh, wait...that's what mine look like...

I prefer Ori~gasme...it's a game I used to play with Japanese women...but ladies always came first...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Low-Voltage...196?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item439bc8a2d4
I allways wondered how these would work just screw it tight and shrink wrap it on?

now those look like really big marettes...which I have used on vehicle wiring...in fact I think my heater blower fan still has some on it...

 

[ab_slack]

End to end would be smoother...solder is a good conductor so it will work either way.

But solder doesn't have much strength. End to End is liable to break if mechanically stressed.

I agree with others solder and heat shrink others have suggested.

One important thing about heat shrink (or tape even) is to insure no odd strands or solder points are sticking up. Such sharp points can stick up.

I usually strip off about an inch from each wire and lay them next to each other and solder them thoroughly. The overlap gives lots of solder area and bending the wire can't stress the solder too much. A really small soldering iron won't work but most standard size can manage 8 gauge but it takes time.

To add strength to the joint something like 20ga or 22ga stripped and wrapped around the two parallel 8ga before soldering. Again make sure any sharp points are trimmed off.

There are some very large gauge crimp butt splices. The problem with most insulated ones is the need to have the right size crimping too or the insulation gets messed up. For un-insulated crimps I have had good success with regular pliers.

More common than butt splice are large ring and fork terminals. Sometimes what I do is get one that takes a single 4ga or maybe 6ga, pull off the insulation (if insulated) and clip off the ring or fork and just use the crimp portion putting one of the 8ga in from each side. Then solder the wires after crimping and put heat shrink over the top.

 

[tmcalavy]

Or you could just replace it...I mean, if your Trojan broke on the shaft would you try to patch it? That can lead to diapers and braces...not worth it.

 

[Chris_North]

My suggestion would be to use the set screw splice kit and either threadlock the sets screws or solder the wires in the block in addition to the screws. It will be clean, strong, and conductive. I doubt the screws will ever give you a problem. They use them on motor pulleys and they only rarely come loose.

I prefer Ori~gasme...it's a game I used to play with Japanese women...but ladies always came first...


now those look like really big marettes...which I have used on vehicle wiring...in fact I think my heater blower fan still has some on it...

Oh god that's horrible, haha.

I had to look up what marettes were first, but I would have to agree. If anyone were to go that route I would say just use regular wire nuts. I wouldn't use them for anything but a temporary repair, so I wouldn't bother to tape/heatshrink them.