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belt system questions


dropitlow

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Joined
Feb 2, 2011
Messages
15
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ok, going to a carbed 302, with m5odr2 4x4 tranny. going into an 88 ranger extended cab. i want a serp belt setup from a 5.0 sploder. can i use this setup on a carbed motor? i want to retai a/c if possible. i am curious if i can keep my stock accesories or not. im also curious what conversion ujoint i need to go from a half ton driveshaft to a dana 30 yoke. (dana 28 and 30 use same size joint) i have everything else more or less squared away. also, as an alternative to the serp system, what vehicle has the proper brackets to retain my stock accesories in there relative locations? any help would be greatly appreciated. this site has a wealth of knowledge. been following since i was 13. im now 25, finally decided to sign up:headbang:
 
No reason you can't use the carbed setup with the Exploder accessories. As for the U joint, measure the cup sizes and dimension across the cups (cup to cup) on both yokes. You can look up the various dimensions of U joints on Summit's website and find the part number of the joint you need. Or take both yokes to the parts house and ask them to match a joint to the yokes.
 
thanks for the quick response. ive seen you on alot of posts here. how does the 4.0 rad stand up to the job of cooling? also, will a rear sump pan clear ok?
 
I've never used the 4.0 radiator. Others have and I've yet to hear anything negative about them. As for the 'Sploder pan, as far as I can recall, the steel pan works, but the cast aluminum one doesn't fit the coil sprung suspension trucks. I used the fox body pan on mine.
 
i have the steel pan. my ranger is also sas'ed with leaf springs, so that shouldnt be an issue. what about the stock tach? any way to recalibrate?
 
i have the steel pan. my ranger is also sas'ed with leaf springs, so that shouldnt be an issue. what about the stock tach? any way to recalibrate?

It isn't the actual suspension that causes the problem, it is the big hairy crossmember that holds both the engine and axle beams.
 
i have the steel pan. my ranger is also sas'ed with leaf springs, so that shouldnt be an issue. what about the stock tach? any way to recalibrate?

Yes, if you'll pull the gauge panel out , you'll see there's two round "thingy's" (think some one called them "potentiometers":icon_confused:) On the back side of the tach. They're adjustable to recalibrate the tach readout, but you'll need another tach to do it. Both need to be hooked up and while watching the V8 tach, you can adjust the doo-dads:icon_idea: on the back of your tach to match the readout to the V8 tach. On my 89 these doo-dads were about 3/8" in diameter and had black rims with white centers with a screw driver slot in the middle.
 
ok, i have to tear into when the time comes. still waiting on gasket kit and rings. have a few more odds and ends to pick up. im hoping with the serp belt setup i have room to use a puller fan. should be more low profile than vbelts id imagine.
 
A couple of things to consider, The 4.0L rad will work, but make sure you get one for an automatic (2 core) as it is thicker and offers more cooling. I am running the stock 4.0L rad and I have no problems. A first gen (91-94) explorer rad will bolt right up to your core support. A/C, this can be tricky, I have done it, but it makes for some tight spaces between the rad and the motor. FEAD, you need to make sure you have the right water pump for the vehicle the FEAD came off of...The explorer FEAD will work, but you will run into wiring issues. You need to run an explorer V8 altenator, the ranger will not fit, same with power steering pump AND remote reservior. The A/C will need to be 95+ ranger/explorer/explorer V8. To get a better perspective on this, check my build thread, everything is explained in the first post. You will see how tight the A/C setup is, the power steering setup, the rad setup, altenator differences side by side, etc... Hope this helps and good luck with the build. Take pics and post up your build thread :icon_thumby:
SVT
 
Now I'm curious about the tach working with a V8, Ill have to keep an eye on this. Good luck with your v8 swap, I used f150 truck engine and with mustang accessory drive. Pretty sure i used a jeep dana 30 u-joint on my 92 front driveshaft. I'll check again.
 
From Autozone's website info:
1-0153DL - for the 96 jeep dana 30 front u-joint on front driveshaft

1-0153DL - for the 92 ranger dana 35 front u-joint on front driveshaft

Yup, that is what I used. but I see the dana 28 and dana 35 used different u-joints
on the driveshaft. (1-5900DL for dana 28 driveshaft)
So I'd do as 457 mentioned previously.
 
Now I'm curious about the tach working with a V8, Ill have to keep an eye on this.

Most tachs will work with any 4,6 or 8 cylinder motor, the OEM ones are no different. Even the tachs used on Diesel trucks can be adjusted to change the readout for different engines.
 
i think that link is broken. i actually have a dana 30 front end, and i was able to use a 28 u-joint. however, i'll be running half ton driveshafts, front and rear, hence the need for a conversion u-joint. i cant wait to get this thing together. gonna be a blast. im runnin 35's now with 3.55s. really need a better ratio but the pinion on the d30 gets smaller and smaller as you go up. 5 speed and v8 should help. does anyone know what side the exploder exhaust y-pipe dumps off to? im going to plumb the exhaust into my existing 1 in 2 out flowmaster.
 
im ditching the serp belt system for the time being. wiring issues i dont feel like dealing with, plus the 5.0 sploder from the boneyard is gone... what am i looking fo to retain my stock alt. and power steering. not worried about a/c (yet)
 

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