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bedliner floor


I had the interior of my BII Line-X'd. It is louder and the transmission tunnel does get warm but I love it! I can hose it out and dont have to worry about spilling anything.

Steve
 
floor update

this is for a single cab 86 ranger with rubber mat - tore out mat used box cutter and gasket scraper ,35 min (keep garbage can close as it is fun tearing out mat but it scatters) went to lowes and got 3 cans of bedliner and a paint remover for my angle grinder and a mask and 2 corse sponge/sandblocks $48 -3 hrs later the rust and stink are gone and ready to paint- I am on the third coat and it looks ok but it might as well be spray paint ,at this point I think roll on DIY would have been better but the best would have been the thickest commercial grade liner I could get -but I don't know or rather did not ask for quotes - I can say the rust removal was not too hard and came out nice its just the cheapo spray can stuff is so thin.I will most likly go to the remanent carpet store and get some carpet to put in but at least next time I get a cab full of water it will be easy to fix
 
Im right in the middle of doing this on my project BII. Im using the Rustoleum brand roll on DIY liner. So far so good. Ii is a little thin per coat but after about three coats it should be good to go. This is a mainly trail truck that will see some road driving every now and then. I'm kinda used to the bare metal floors. Having been in the Army for 20 yrs. I kinda got used to it. And besides it really makes clean out a breeze.
 
Updates to the floor are coming. Tomorrow I will be working on the floor. School and other problems have put this project on hold for a while, sorry guys. Good news is i have all the stupid roofing removed and almost have all the sound deadening off the floor. Its looking like more rust then expected :( nothing patches cant fix i hope. Plan for tomorrow is wire wheel the rust and clean up the rest of the floor. wish me luck
 
Sounds great- you are using roll on or brush bed liner I hope -diy spray is too thin. It did not seem too loud and since we wheel in cooler climate floor temp is non issue -this will be a great upgrade and look good too!:icon_thumby:
 
I'm kinda surprised about the guys that are saying it's too loud... I imagined it would be a little louder than carpet, but not unbearable. How thick are you guys having it put in? The good bedliners I have seen are sprayed anywhere from 1/8 inch to almost a 1/4 inch...
 
I did a roll on bedliner called hippoliner about 5 years ago now in my 91. Did 3 coats and it has held up great. Prep is the key to a good long lasting product. It is a bit louder without the carpet but isnt bad at all.

Sent from my GT-S5830D using Tapatalk
 
Dieseldane you would be surprised how much louder it is. I removed the carpet and then scraped the pressed on insulation off the floor so the only thing on it now is the Line-X. I had them spray in on thick (1/8"-1/4"). It doesnt help that I'm running an old glass pack and the exhaust turns down right under the back seat. It's not crazy loud but you do have to raise your voice to talk to passenger and with my bad hearing I cant even hear my phone ring if at hwy speeds but even if I did I cant carry on a phone conversation because I cant hear the other person very well. Would I do it again...HELL YES! Would I recommend...Yes but you need to understand that you will have an increase in noise and heat but worth it I believe.



Steve
 
floor2.jpg

Drivers side
floor1.jpg

passenger side
floor3.jpg

extended cab section
 
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ok so im thinking of buying the HF $99 welder to patch the holes in the floor. It seems like a good buy for small jobs like this one and for a first time welder. also how thick are the floor boards 20 gauge?
Another thought was buying a whole new floorboard section from LMC for the drivers side, it seems to be the worst and has quite a few holes. its $40
 
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Buy the floor panel, it's much easier fitting than stuff not pre-bent. Check my b-II build thread for what I did to fix rust. Still driving it after three years and it still looks like crap but I'm not worried about falling through the floor. That welder would do just fine with practice. You just have to make sure that you are welding good metal, otherwise lots of blow holes. The trick is not to weld it continuously but to use a tac-tac-tac method and move around the clock to let the metal cool between tacking ~ 1" at a time. Another option; I also used self tapping screws in a lot of places and they are holding up just fine. If you have air, a flanging tool would also help in the fitment for welding, it creates a 1/2" lap that the new metal falls into and makes it a lot neater looking.
Good luck,

Richard
 
alright thanks! and i ended up getting that welder for $79 with $7 shipping
 

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