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Failed the CA Emission test again...


e21pilot

10+ Year Member

Joined
Jul 28, 2013
Messages
178
Points
1,601
Vehicle Year
1992
Transmission
Manual
I have past with flying colors that past 3 times but this time, the dreaded fuel filler neck is leaking and I failed the evap test.

I have seen people remove the gas tank or the bed in order to replace the fuel filler neck. I wonder if it possible to do the replacement with the bed and tank still in place?

I have a 1992 2WD extended cab Ranger and it looks like it could be possible but just wanted to see if anyone has had success doing so.
 
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I have a bodylift on my '85, even with the extra room I don't think I could get the filler neck assembly out of the tank with the tank in place.

It would probably be easiest to pull the bed, the filler neck assembly is sandwiched between the frame and bed.

You may do some soul searching about replacing the fuel pump while its right there in your face too...
 
i have swapped them out with a body lift.


but loosen the passenger side bed bolts and pull the passenger side and unplug the tail lights and jack it up a bit, it will make it easier.

is it a metal tank?
 
i have swapped them out with a body lift.


but loosen the passenger side bed bolts and pull the passenger side and unplug the tail lights and jack it up a bit, it will make it easier.

is it a metal tank?
'92 is plastic tank
 
not all of them.
 
It’s possible, but it’s much easier to move the bed and get some better access. Much much easier. There’s an inner hose that goes down inside the tank. Bed doesn’t have to come completely off, I’ve moved them so they sit on the tires and bumper or you could tilt it or something.
 
Yeah, it is definitely a plastic tank in my 1992. Not sure if I have the bigger tank or not but I do have an extended cab 2WD XLT.
 
If you take the bed off, it's a convenient time to service the differential and do the brakes. Although, with the bed off and the spring on the brake flying off for the third time, without the bed, you don't have something to bang your head on in frustration. At least, uh, that is what a friend told me.
 
I guess I'm really trying to avoid the extra work as I have little space to work these days. I might try it the hard way and post if I have any success. Sounds like it might be a 50/50 proposition at best.
 
Updating this post as I was successful at the "hard way" which surprised me a little. As a reference for others in the same situation: bad fuel filler pipe and little time or space to fix it, I wanted to pass along how this job went.

First I raised the rear of the truck as I high as could get it on my jack stands and then removed the left rear wheel and the forward piece of the left rear wheel well liner so I could clearly see the fuel filler pipe from the wheel well.

With my phone up over the frame, I snapped a pic of the hose clamp on the pipe that was sealing it to the tank inlet port.



Before.png


From the pic, I could see that the screw on the hose clamp was at about the 2 o'clock position and there was a small amount of space to get a wrench in there. Using a small 1/4" ratchet and 7mm socket,

ratchet.png


I was able to get my right hand to feel for the screw on the hose clamp and with a little trial and error, line up the ratchet on the screw and get it to turn just enough to get a few clicks on the ratchet with each swing. After maybe 20 tight swings of the ratchet, I got the hose clamp loose enough that I could feel it expanding on the hose. At this point, I was able to twist the clamp off its perch on the bottom of the hose and work it up over the wide part of the tank inlet so that it was sitting loose on the horizontal part of the fuel filler pipe. It took some force to get the hose loose off the inlet of the tank but with a little twist on the horizontal part of the fuel filler pipe it came loose. The other end that connects to the bed side came loose easily and I had the whole thing out.

With the hose out, I could were clearly signs of rotted rubber where the pipe expanded at the top and bottom -- the typical problem with these. I also compared the new and old pipes to verify a match in dimensions and screw holes for the filler part -- you never know these days...


Pipe.png


I snapped a pic of the inlet port of the tank to get an idea of how I could install the new hose.

During.png


I could see that the tank inlet was a little wider at the top. I then slipped the new hose clamp on the horizontal part of the new filler pipe, moved the pipe in position and once again, I needed to twist the new filler pipe hose a little to get it over the inlet lip so I could push it all the way down onto the inlet neck. Then I slipped the hose clamp over the wide part of the inlet and down near the bottom of the inlet port on the tank.

The next step was the hardest. I had to use a plastic putty knife blade as a wedge to hold the loose hose clamp in position against the bottom of the fuel filler hose. Once the hose clamp was stationary, I could get the same mini ratchet on the hose clamp screw and get it to tighten a few clicks with every small swing of the ratchet. I got the hose clamp barely snug when I stopped and rotated the clamp a 1/4 way in each direction to get it set relatively true on the hose and well aligned with the axis of the inlet port. I also left the hose clamp screw in about the same 2 o'clock position as before since I knew I had good access there. I then tightened the clamp as much of my fingers would let me. The installation at the top end of the fuel filler pipe went easily and then the job was done.



After.png


With the pipe installed, I put the liner back in, the left wheel back on and lowered the truck. I drove to the gas station and added 5 gallons as a check for any leaks. Fortunately, there were none.

The following day the truck passed the evap test that had previously failed and then the whole emissions test as a result. Now my '92 is back on the road for another two years, adding more miles beyond the 300K mark.

If I would have started with all the right tools, I probably could have gotten it done in 90 minutes. If I was in my youth, maybe 60 minutes,

I was pleased with the outcome although I should mention that I have a 1992 extended cab so it you have a different year/model YMMV.

Now if only I can figure out an easy way to get my NOx readings down. I am not at the maximum yet but the the NOx reading seems to get higher with every smog test.
 

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good work on the tube.
and a huge WOW to how clean your chassis is.
I'm in the rust belt, we can't even remember when ours were that good.
 

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