$6k quote for head gaskets on 4.0 SOHC?

[JJMaine]

I guess it isn't critical since the motors coming out for head gaskets at the least anyway. Fwiw, I started it before work this morning and it ran great with no ticking.

 

[sgtsandman]

I guess it isn't critical since the motors coming out for head gaskets at the least anyway. Fwiw, I started it before work this morning and it ran great with no ticking.

Maybe it's just the tensioners that use oil pressure to operate are wearing out then.

Chain guides should be making noise whether it's warm or cold.

 

[JJMaine]

Yeah it caught me off guard because it's never made that sound. I guess if all goes to plan I should do the whole timing setup on this motor as well this winter. I'm not looking forward to it but what are you going to do?

And new tensioners at least on the donor motor?

 

[sgtsandman]

Yeah it caught me off guard because it's never made that sound. I guess if all goes to plan I should do the whole timing setup on this motor as well this winter. I'm not looking forward to it but what are you going to do?

And new tensioners at least on the donor motor?

I would. We recommend changing them every 70,000 to 100,000 miles, depending on who you talk to. I prefer every 70,000. You also don't have to prefill and pressurize them. Some instructions tell you to do that. It just makes it harder to install them if you do.

Also, check the oil passages that feed the tensioners. Some times they get clogged up. A pipe cleaner will fit in there.

 

[JJMaine]

Thanks guys for all your help and suggestions, I really appreciate it. I know I've been all over the place trying to figure this out. Currently having a go with the IRS over the money they owe me for my 2023 tax returns and then my truck starts taking a dump on me 12 days before winter so it had me a bit frazzled lol.

If my truck does have the timing chain rattle will that be fixable when I have the engine out or is that a "scrap the engine" type scenario?

Now I'm contemplating just pulling my own motor and put all of my effort into going right through it. I can grab that other Ranger for $1000 but I could also just put that $1000 into parts and cylinder head work on my motor.

 

[Uncle Gump]

It will be fixable... unless it comes jumps time and beats the hell out of things.

I don't pump up the tensioners when I rrplace them either. I just pull the fuel pump relay and crank the engine to fill the system with oil a few times. The plug the relay in and fire it up.

 

[JJMaine]

Awesome thanks. It won't jump time as I don't plan to drive it until it's fixed. If need be my boss said I can take a truck home until I get mine sorted.

 

[sgtsandman]

Thanks guys for all your help and suggestions, I really appreciate it. I know I've been all over the place trying to figure this out. Currently having a go with the IRS over the money they owe me for my 2023 tax returns and then my truck starts taking a dump on me 12 days before winter so it had me a bit frazzled lol.

If my truck does have the timing chain rattle will that be fixable when I have the engine out or is that a "scrap the engine" type scenario?

Now I'm contemplating just pulling my own motor and put all of my effort into going right through it. I can grab that other Ranger for $1000 but I could also just put that $1000 into parts and cylinder head work on my motor.

Fordtecmakuloco has a video series on replacing the guides, how to lock everything in time, and make sure they are still in time during installtion. Everything, start to finish. I can't remember if he gave torque spec though. So, you might want to pick up a service manual. Not a Haynes but an actual Ford Service Manual. Check ebay for them. Worse comes to worse, Helm incorporated sells them. They aren't cheap but they are worth every nickle spent on them.

 

[JJMaine]

Thanks sgtsandman, I remember using his videos on my Ford Edge as well they are helpful so I'll check them out for sure! Already have the service manual, I found it for a steal on eBay when I bought my truck. My biggest worry now is being able to drag the motor into my shop after getting it out of the truck but I'll figure that out when the time comes I can lay plywood down like someone suggested earlier.

 

[sgtsandman]

Engine puller or engine stand, neither wants to roll straight but and engine stand does tend to be the easier of the two. Mostly because the engine isn't swinging back and forth while you are trying to move it.

 

[JJMaine]

Im going to harbor freight tomorrow on my lunch break to get an engine hoist and an engine stand. None in my area for sale used and I need one asap. Should I get one of those load balancers too?

Any other "special tools" I should buy while I'm there? Something to get the fan pulley off the front of the engine? I've heard that can be a pain and they make a slick tool for that. Going to get a 1/2" breaker bar (I currently only have a 3/8").

My plan is to hopefully get everything disconnected and out of the way this weekend and then have a couple buddies help next weekend to yank the motor and wrestle it into my shop on the engine stand. I'm going to try my best to take a million pictures and label everything/bag and label all of the bolts. I'll start a new thread to beg for help with the engine removal.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I've used the load balancers. They can help, but can get in the way too. HF has a good return policy if you dont use it? (Or doesnt work like you want)?

 

[JJMaine]

I've used the load balancers. They can help, but can get in the way too. HF has a good return policy if you dont use it? (Or doesnt work like you want)?

The thread I was reading someone said it will just hit the firewall but I wasn't sure if the guy was pulling a 4.0 OHV or SOHC or if it makes a difference. They aren't that expensive it looks like around $30-40. If I don't buy one I'll need it so I may as well and then just return if I don't use it.

 

[sgtsandman]

Im going to harbor freight tomorrow on my lunch break to get an engine hoist and an engine stand. None in my area for sale used and I need one asap. Should I get one of those load balancers too?

Any other "special tools" I should buy while I'm there? Something to get the fan pulley off the front of the engine? I've heard that can be a pain and they make a slick tool for that. Going to get a 1/2" breaker bar (I currently only have a 3/8").

My plan is to hopefully get everything disconnected and out of the way this weekend and then have a couple buddies help next weekend to yank the motor and wrestle it into my shop on the engine stand. I'm going to try my best to take a million pictures and label everything/bag and label all of the bolts. I'll start a new thread to beg for help with the engine removal.

I found the load balancer useful when replacing the 2.5 Lima in the 1998 I had. Being that the V6 is going to be bigger, it may help but I haven't had to pull my 4.0 SOHC to say definitively.

A dedicated wrench for the clutch fan nut can be critical with some engines. Others, a smaller pipe wrench will work. The other trick, is the accessory belt going to provide enough grip to hold the pulley? It was fine on the 2.5 Lima but not on the 2.3 Ecoboost.

So, you may need this tool: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K3KWXLG?tag=959media-20

Locally, no auto parts store had a tool to hold the fan pulley, nor did Harbor Freight. So, good luck.

Otherwise, I can't think of any other special tools, but I have collected quite a bit over the years. So, I may be taking some things for granted. The exhaust may be a challenge, depending on the condition of the bolts, studs, and nuts. An oxy/acetylene torch would be real handy but probably isn't in the cards. I would love to have one.