Auto Trans going ?

[whiteboi895]

I have an 01 ranger with auto trans and when i put it in drive it takes high rpms and some time for the ranger to actually go into drive. it goes into reverse no problem, and once its in drive its pretty good, but now the overdrive light has started blinking, i checked the trans fluid and its good but it smells like its been overheated. What can I do ?

 

[fourwheelford]

Go to an auto parts store and have the codes pulled, that will tell you whats going on or at least narrow it down. Have you had your fluid and filter changed? You could drop the pan and see what is inside there, doesn't sound good though.

 

[v8318cid]

On most of the auto transmissions I've seen, reverse uses a much higher line pressure than the forward gears. As such, its possible that this allows it to engage better. Not sure. As for forward gears, have you tried using any of the manual selections (2 or 1/L)? By manually selecting a gear other than D/OD, you can pinpoint whether the issue is specific to certain gears, clutch packs/bands, or shift solenoids.

 

[rickf92592]

When's the last time the bands were adjusted?

 

[whiteboi895]

I have tried it in 2 and 1 and still the same, takes forever, and for the 2 years I've had the truck, I haven't had the bands adjusted.

 

[rickf92592]

Service the trans, then see where you are at.
Fluid, filter and band adjustment.

 

[v8318cid]

If the trans is electronically controlled, bands are not adjustable to the best of my knowledge. The solenoids control line pressure which actuates the bands via a small metal linkage/piston or both depending on the setup.
Like they said above, pull codes, change fluid and filter. Check the pan for metal debris. Might also cut open the old filter to see if anything is in there that shouldn't be.

 

[Ranger44]

1). Get the codes pulled. See what they are. It could just be something with the electronic control.

2). Go get a trans flush.

I highly recommend BG products. I've seen the stuff work wonders.

ATF is usually recommended replacement every 30K for severe duty. My truck went almost 100K before it's first trans flush. It started to shudder while shifting into O.D. Did the flush with Valvoline Max Life and added the BG synthetic additive. Totally disappeared and hasn't reappeared in the 11K I've driven it, the trans shifts much better throughout too.

Point is, AT transmissions need care, maintain them and they will last a long while.

 

[kemo]

NEVER get a tranny flush, especially when you suspect something is wrong. That is the worst possible advice ever given.

The problem lies in the fact that many contaminants (Clutch material, metal shards, etc.) are not caught in the filter but are trapped in the sludge that forms in various nooks and crannies throughout the tranny. Flushing can free them to be deposited or caught in the things you're trying to clean. Not good. Leads to blocked galleries, scored valves and valve bodies, non-seating check valves, and a whole host of other problems that could require a complete disassembly and multiple parts replacement at great cost.

Usually when the fluid is fried, so is the tranny.

 

[adsm08]

NEVER get a tranny flush, especially when you suspect something is wrong.

^^

That is the worst possible advice ever given.

While many times fried fluid means that the trans is already gone, what do you really have to lose. If the trans needs to come out, it needs to come out. Dirty fluid can cause a lot of issues that can actually be fixed by a proper flushing.



In the OP's case, you aren't gonna get that lucky. Your OD light is on, which means you have a code. Those don't usually set until something breaks to the point where parts are needed. Go get the codes pulled at a GOOD trans shop, and go from there.

 

[kemo]

While many times fried fluid means that the trans is already gone, what do you really have to lose.

um, a transmission? You must not have any formal training, whatsoever.

If there is anything remotely wrong with the transmission, any reputable transmission shop and dealership will REFUSE to flush it.

Why? Because being a power equipment shop owner myself, we don't want to have to pay for a new transmission, let alone the labor, and the LOST income for all of it.

 

[rickf92592]

If the trans is electronically controlled, bands are not adjustable to the best of my knowledge. The solenoids control line pressure which actuates the bands via a small metal linkage/piston or both depending on the setup.
Like they said above, pull codes, change fluid and filter. Check the pan for metal debris. Might also cut open the old filter to see if anything is in there that shouldn't be.

I believe he has a 4R44E like the one we just rebuilt in my daughter's 2000.
There are two band adjustment bolts on the driver's side of the transmission.

I normally would agree with NOT flushing a transmission but if the fluid is that far gone, I would probably drop the pan, change the filter (assuming you don't find something horribly wrong) and do the "drain the fluid at the return line on the radiator while replenishing the fluid into the transmission". It's a slow, messy process but doesn't put the fluid through at a unnatural speed like some flushing machines.
You might also consider a Magnefine in line filter on the return line. I put one on after the rebuild to trap anything caught in the system (after a comprehensive back flush of the coolers and lines). Yesterday I changed it out after about 500 miles and cut the old one open. Found very little but I did find one steel fragment about 1/8" that would have ended up in the transmission.

 

[kemo]

Thus far, there hasn't been any diagnostics going on to get an idea of WHY that light came on in the first place. Guessing by throwing parts at it and swapping fluids won't fix it.

 

[v8318cid]

Good to know RickF. I'll have to dig up a service manual to see exactly how they work then. I knew older systems used adjusting screws to adjust bands, but I guess I assumed they were no longer needed when the (full) electronically controlled transmissions came out full force.
Kemo, does having the codes pulled not qualify for diagnosis, or did you have something else in mind?

 

[exbass94]

Flushing does NOT dislodge any junk in the transmission and will NOT kill it. The reason trans shops refuse to do it is because people wait until their trans is already almost dead, THEN they decide to get it flushed and they WRONGFULLY blame the trans flush on it, when it was actually their lack of maintenance that killed it.

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