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Wanted Auto locking hub


Rotro

New Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2016
Messages
3
City
Ozarks
Vehicle Year
1990
Transmission
Automatic
1990 Ranger XLT with push button 4x4. It all worked great. Had this truck gone over top to bottom. Asked my daughter to take it in for a leaking front tire but it came back without an auto locking hub. I don't drive it much, it's shopped most of the time, so didn't notice for an entire year. Now I can't find a replacement and cannot prove the tire people stole it/didn't put it back on. Looking for a replacement.
 

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I'd keep a regular check at the yard

What did they put back in its place?
 
If they put a manual hub then you're half done.
 
Yes, watch the wrecking yards
There is no difference between left or right auto hubs


A manual hub swap would be better long term, seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/automatic-to-manual-hub-conversion/

The auto hubs were a convenience but could also be unreliable when you needed 4WD "right now", lol
The Front axle is an OPEN differential so if one Auto Hub decides not to engage then no front wheel drive

Manual hubs can be left Locked during winter or year round, or unlocked as you see fit
2WD and 4WD is only ever decided by the transfer case not the front hubs
So if hubs are locked you can "shift on the fly" to 4WD and back to 2WD as needed

Having the front hubs locked to the axles means lube and oil in differential is always coating parts
When hubs are unlocked axles and differential just sit, no motion so can dry out, so when 4WD is activated then you have dry starts, not a big deal, but...................
Rear axles are always engaged, seem to last a long long time that way................
 
Ron, I seem to remember seeing somewhere that the front differential, on the '97, was always being lubricated even if the hubs not locked, was I dreaming about that? Maybe it had to do w/ xfr case. Couldn't find it in the manual now.
They talk a lot about noises in the front differential caused by not broken in or was sitting cold. (normal noises).
I remember the first time I tried it before I bought it I thought the thing was tearing itself apart (noises). But now when I use it I don't get that, it seems to work fine and not lots of noise.
I suppose it's possible they just never used it. I try to put it in/out of 4x4 a couple times a month, or, better, just go 4x4 at least that often.
 
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Ron, I seem to remember seeing somewhere that the front differential, on the '97, was always being lubricated even if the hubs not locked, was I dreaming about that? Maybe it had to do w/ xfr case. Couldn't find it in the manual now.
If hubs are unlocked and transfer case is in 2wd mode, nothing is turning in the differential. All the oil settles to the bottom. Lubricant is not being splashed around.
 
Well, that is a fine kettle of fish. If previous owner did not use 4x4, which I suspect is possible, then if that lube was just sitting there 25 years, seems like it might be a good idea to change it out but there's no drain, right? So not really easy. Yikes.
Thanks.
So once I get the manual hubs, I'd just leave them locked, or, at least lock them periodicaly to get the lube moving.
Ford Front Differential Maintenance: Specialized Drain and Fill Procedure - YouTube
not sure if that helps me... might not be the best one, but I guess you can do it.
 
Well, that is a fine kettle of fish. If previous owner did not use 4x4, which I suspect is possible, then if that lube was just sitting there 25 years, seems like it might be a good idea to change it out but there's no drain, right? So not really easy. Yikes.
Thanks.
So once I get the manual hubs, I'd just leave them locked, or, at least lock them periodicaly to get the lube moving.
Ford Front Differential Maintenance: Specialized Drain and Fill Procedure - YouTube
not sure if that helps me... might not be the best one, but I guess you can do it.
James, that video is not for a TTB axle. Also, the missing hub has nothing to do with lubricant in the differential. The differential is sealed and the oil will still be in there, probably in pristine condition if 4x4 has not been used much.

the big problem with the missing hub is that it would allow dirt and moisture to work it’s way into wheel bearings.
 
Oops on the vid.
Thank you for one less worry, the front diff oil is probably just fine then if it doesn't degrade with time. There's not a mark underneath and I don't see how they could have done much 4x4 and never get a scratch on it that's one reason I don't think it was used much if at all.
Yes he doesn't want missing hub I don't see how you could not notice it. Will get collateral damage. I realize I kind of hijacked the thread there.
 
The 1997 and earlier also use u-joints on the front axles, so they also sit, but should be changed when you do the ball joints which do wear out

Front differential is vented, like the rear,(and transmission and transfer case), so if it just sits for months or years unused so never heats up to evaporate the moisture it can collect a lot of water inside so I wouldn't say pristine from disuse, its not a sealed unit
(one of my reasons I no longer buy "low milers", lol, too many leaking seals and dried out parts)

There is no metric that I have seen for or against having front hubs locked more often than unLocked
I don't see a lot of failed front axles and differentials on the 2001 and up Rangers which are always locked, well no more than earlier models that had the unlock option, but they were different systems, Dana 28/35 TTB or Dana 35 SLA
Just one of those personal opinions
 
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Ron are you saying Dana 35 Twin Torsion Beam are always locked but Dana 35 SLA (= TIB? - what I have, I think) are not always locked? But if I put in manual hubs, I could probably leave them locked with no ill effect.
Hope I got that right.
Thanks for the additional info.
 
I see where I have gone astray. TTB = Twin Traction Beam (what I have, and Dana 35).
I thought it was Twin Torsion Bars, duh. Thanks for the links now I won't sound like I don't even know what my truck has.
Edit: And when I change to manual hubs that's no different than what I could have ordered had I bought it new so basically not changing from what could have been stock (but most likely different brand).
My understanding is I don't really want the very strongest hubs I can get because I would rather have a hub break than something else. So MM would be fine.
That's what I got out of earlier threads on it.
Ford even says in their booklets that auto hubs aren't designed for hard off road use. It's a convenience feature not a performance feature. But if you leave the hubs locked all the time there is no difference in convenience.
 
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1990 Ranger XLT with push button 4x4. It all worked great. Had this truck gone over top to bottom. Asked my daughter to take it in for a leaking front tire but it came back without an auto locking hub. I don't drive it much, it's shopped most of the time, so didn't notice for an entire year. Now I can't find a replacement and cannot prove the tire people stole it/didn't put it back on. Looking for a replacement.
Having any luck with that hub?
 

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