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Removing Locking Pin on Spindle Auto Hub 93 Ranger 4x4


I didn't know that was possible
Yeah my key went all the way in. You can't see it now. I tried spinning the spindle nut to see if it's locked, and it was... So
 
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Fact is just drive it in even with the slot and close it in with the solid washer that goes on next
Actually drive it in even with the locking nut, I suppose that would back out into the key and lock it into place. Driving isn't really necessary, just push it in to there
 
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Fact is just drive it in even with the slot and close it in with the solid washer that goes on next
Actually drive it in even with the locking nut, I suppose that would back out into the key and lock it into place. Driving isn't really necessary, just push it in to there

Well I punched the key in too far, hopefully I can grab it one day if needed. 🤪
 
Maybe the key will slide out a little so I can grab it down the road, your thoughts?
 
Well, I don't think it will become tighter, but who knows. As long as you are certain it is engaged and will not fall off.
If you are using those lug locks on the hub, I only use one, it does have the lug bolts when assembled, one is enough to hold the hub on if some nitwit gets ahold of it while fixing a flat, and makes it lots easier to get off next time it's serviced
 
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For future work, that key doesn't need to be "driven in", flush is fine as it's held in place with the plastic cam that cannot move outward... the auto hub axles are the easiest to deal with when things go correctly, when I've done it all I've needed is a pair of channel lock pliers and a magnet (sometimes a pick too) to get the wheel bearings apart or set, everyone always worries about the giant socket but it's just wheel bearing preload not a lug nut...

Glad you got it sorted though!

Back in the olden days when things got hairy some people would just drive that key in as far as it would go and it would go out the back side
 
Well, I don't think it will become tighter, but who knows. As long as you are certain it is engaged and will not fall off. If you are using those lug locks on the hub, I only use one, it does have the lug bolts when assembled, one is enough to hold the hub on if some nitwit gets ahold of it while fixing a flat, and makes it lots easier to get off next time it's serviced

Yes it's definitely engaged, I tried turning the main spindle nut, and it wouldn't budge. Besides it would be impossible to get the key all the way in, if it wasn't in that channel and in the nut.
 
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Back in the olden days when things got hairy some people would just drive that key in as far as it would go and it would go out the back side

Ughh I hope I didn't drive that key in too far. Maybe the key will come out the back like you stated. Is that even possible? I hope not. 🤔
 
I can't see how the key (photo enclosed) would go all the way through the nut accidentally, if it's put in too far, the key has a nipple on it also to prevent that I think, for safety purposes. Your thoughts.

Screenshot_20231028_143716_Chrome.jpg
 
An update to this thread:
I removed the stubborn key with 2 precision dental picks. There was no need to drill etc. It worked out fine.
 
I can't see how the key (photo enclosed) would go all the way through the nut accidentally, if it's put in too far, the key has a nipple on it also to prevent that I think, for safety purposes. Your thoughts.

View attachment 100970
That’s the nut. Not the key.

anyway. Your key should be fine. It can only go so far until it hits the bearing race or the end of the keyway. As long as it prevents the nut from turning, everything is fine.
 
I never even thought about it going beyond the rim of the adjusting nut, guess I just wasn't that adventurous ;)
It is best to use that big socket because the large pliers are just not good at grabbing onto anything in that position, much less get 35 ft lb accurately, then back it off without losing any additional ground. Believe me there, I used that myself over 15 years before I finally bought one and it is well worth the price and makes it spot on without guessing/hoping it was somewhere near

Now the trick is getting it to 16 inch pounds when the in lb ratchet doesn't go below 20 :) Mine generally looses hold somewhere between 16-20 anyway so that's where I lock it down. I still more confident with the setting
 
I never even thought about it going beyond the rim of the adjusting nut, guess I just wasn't that adventurous ;)
It is best to use that big socket because the large pliers are just not good at grabbing onto anything in that position, much less get 35 ft lb accurately, then back it off without losing any additional ground. Believe me there, I used that myself over 15 years before I finally bought one and it is well worth the price and makes it spot on without guessing/hoping it was somewhere near

Now the trick is getting it to 16 inch pounds when the in lb ratchet doesn't go below 20 :) Mine generally looses hold somewhere between 16-20 anyway so that's where I lock it down. I still more confident with the setting

Yes I have that socket, It's 2 3/8.
 
If you -could- drive it all the way through we wouldn't be having these problems getting it out. You can't.
To me the manual hubs are just a lot simpler and easier and I like the way they work better.
And if one breaks you can replace it quickly in the field as long as you have your 4-prong socket with you (and a spare).
My 2 cents - having had both kinds.
 
Specs give you the force req'd to turn the hub when properly adjusted. I'm not sure how to apply it, however - -
Obviously, too tight and you won't be able to turn it at all by hand and bearings will be short lived. Too loose and there'd be play.
16 in lbs isn't much, but it's something. As you know first you go quite tight on them to seat everything properly, back off, then tighten a bit.
I wouldn't be surprised if shops that have done hundreds of bearings have a pretty good idea what 16 in lbs feels like.
 

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