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Removing Locking Pin on Spindle Auto Hub 93 Ranger 4x4


Specs give you the force req'd to turn the hub when properly adjusted. I'm not sure how to apply it, however - -
Obviously, too tight and you won't be able to turn it at all by hand and bearings will be short lived. Too loose and there'd be play.
16 in lbs isn't much, but it's something. As you know first you go quite tight on them to seat everything properly, back off, then tighten a bit.
I wouldn't be surprised if shops that have done hundreds of bearings have a pretty good idea what 16 in lbs feels like.

Yeah I set the bearing numerous times by tightening the spindle nut with considerable force, then had backed off the nut loosely probably around 15-20 lbs and she spun decently, not too loose not too tight. I believe im good there. However I'm curious about the keyway that I hit in too far. Hopefully it's all good. After I hit the keyway in too far I did try to spin the Nut and it wouldn't spin, so methinks I'm good.
 
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If you -could- drive it all the way through we wouldn't be having these problems getting it out. You can't.
To me the manual hubs are just a lot simpler and easier and I like the way they work better.
And if one breaks you can replace it quickly in the field as long as you have your 4-prong socket with you (and a spare).
My 2 cents - having had both kinds.

Down the road I'm going to consider the manual hubs.
 
Yeah I set the bearing numerous times by tightening the spindle nut with considerable force, then had backed off the nut loosely probably around 15-20 lbs and she spun decently, not too loose not too tight. I believe im good there. However I'm curious about the keyway that I hit in too far. Hopefully it's all good. After I hit the keyway in too far I did try to spin the Nut and it wouldn't spin, so methinks I'm good.
Be sure that was 15-20 inch-pounds and not foot-lbs. Some people miss the difference.
 
Hence why I've only ever used channel lock pliers, that's under 2 pounds at 10"...
 

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