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Appropriate oil


RobsRanger

Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2020
Messages
14
City
Simi Valley, CA
Vehicle Year
2007
Transmission
Automatic
This might be a dumb question but...
this is the first Ford I’ve ever owned, all my other vehicles have been GM or imports. Are Ford engines picky about specifically using the recommended (motorcraft) oil or can I run like valvoline max life or Castrol edge etc? Thanks. (FYI I just got the truck, 2007 3.0l with 105k miles)
 
Nope.

Run Mobile 1 in everything I've owned. Works fine, except in the 68 Bronco, where it leaked like a screen door, on a submarine.
 
As long as it's the right viscosity, it really doesn't matter. Traditional motor oil will meet the needs of your engine just fine. I prefer to use whatever synthetic oil is on sale with the correct viscosity but that is just me. There are reasons behind it but there is nothing wrong with just using the most basic oil there is. There are exception to this rule but for a 3.0, it doesn't fall under those exceptions that I'm aware of.
 
3.0's don't care. As said, just use the right weight.
 
I personally won't buy Pennzoil because they own Jiffy Lube. I use almost exclusively Motorcraft filters but Purolator and Wix are both good quality, Napa and Carquest filters are made by Wix. Fram is garbage, as are the bottom of the barrel filters used by Jiffy Lube. The biggest thing is to get the right viscosity and change it regularly. When customers asked me about Ford's ridiculous 10,000 mile/1 year change interval I always recommended against it, if they insisted I told them it would be OK because we sell engines.
 
At 125k in my 01' I've started running Mobil 1 High Mileage 5/20 full syn. Hoping the seal conditioners will buy me a few more years on the dripping rear main.

 
51177
 
Religion, Politics, Disciplining Children, Evolution, Quatum Physics, Origins Of The Universe, Yoga, Buddhist Zen....
& Motor Oil! Everybody's got their own strong opinions on these subjects.

Start with what's in your owner's manual, then the same weight of any national brand is generally acceptable,
beyond that study up on manufacturers specifications on various weights of oils,
then you're as qualified as the next guy to make a choice.

Most important thang! Be OCD about changing oil+filter frequently.
 
I ran motorcraft oil and filters forever.

Now i run Motorcraft filtera and valvoline max life...cause 10w30/40 motorcraft is hard to find.
 
Most important thang! Be OCD about changing oil+filter frequently.

Funny you mention that. My sister had my 98 Ranger from 09 through 13, put over 40,000 miles on the 3.0. Never changed the oil once. I was pissed when I got it back. Didn't hurt a thing. Still runs like a champ heading to 172,000 miles soon.

I run Max Life 20W-50 in mine, been running that weight for 20 years. And yes, it's in the owner's manual for a 98. The colored water oils didn't exist at that time. Last time I looked, Max Life in that weight was not in stock. Did pick up two five quart bottles of STP 20W-50 though. Good for two more oil changes.

Since the episode with my sister, I change mine around 5000 to 6000 these days.
 
As soon as my Mazda 3 was out of warranty, I switched from the 7,500 change interval, to 15,000 miles with the Mobile-1 that is advertised as such. Last oil change I did was at 330,000 miles and the odometer reads just over 340,000. I don't add oil between changes and it actually gets better gas mileage than the window sticker suggests. Last fill-up was 38 mpg and usually 35-36 is the norm, with a mixture of city/highway. 5 speed 2.0 non turbo engine. The only leak I have, is around one of the half-shaft seals coming out of the transmission, so I've got a few drips of gear oil where I park. No engine oil leaking at all.

When Mobile-1 was brought to my attention, I started using it on some of the old junk cars I drove in college without any problems, and greatly stretched the recommended change intervals. Japanese engines, so maybe that had something to do with it. Took an old Datsun 510 with 100K miles on it, and put another 100k miles on it, before lack of A/C (and getting a job out of college) let me buy something new. Not the slightest idea what oil had been run it it, before I got the car.

Oil, of any brand, is (or should be) a LOT better than it was. Advances in refining brought 'conventional' much closer to the consistency of synthetic, in the 1990s. Hence the car manufacturers have been stretching out the change intervals. When I started changing oil, on 1970s vehicles that my family owned, 3,000 miles was a common change interval, and you could really see the difference in consistency when the pan was emptied, vs. what came out of the can. Way thicker / sludgier coming out, even after 'just' 3,000 miles, and adding oil between changes was certainly a common thing. When I change the oil in my car, it runs out about as thin as the clean oil that comes out of the container to refill it.

Thinner viscosity oil takes less effort for the pump to move it around in the engine. Nobody in their right mind would have run a car on 0-20 or such in the 1970s, unless you lived north of the Arctic circle.... but my 97 ranger manual specifies 5-30, and my Mazda 3 is even thinner than that.

The truck has a 5,000 mile change interval. I have no doubt I could stretch that to 15,000 miles, except that I drive the truck so seldom that it might never get changed again ;)

Rear main seal leaking - best switch over to valvoline Max-Life. That stuff really works. If that won't fix it, you're gonna have to put up with the leak, or change the main seal(s). Had to use it in my 68, after a disastrous switch to Mobile-1 left the 289 leaking like a screen door on a submarine. After the change to max-life, no more oil leaks. You could probably mix 50/50, the max-life with some other brand, and at least get some of the benefits.
 
This stuff is plentiful and cheap down here in the south. Nothin’ but the best for my Ranger.

95D15839-E7C7-4A68-88E0-BC11E2715CEE.jpeg


just kidding
 
Mine has a small leak that leaves a spot about the size of a half dollar. Pretty sure it's the oil pressure sensor. Last oil change, I put in one quart of Lucas Engine Oil Stop[ Leak and four quarts Max Life 20w-50. The leak disappeared for awhile, then started up again, but a bit smaller. I don't have to add oil in a 5000 mile oil change, even with the small leak. I thought after my sister did 40,000 without changing the oi land filter, there might be some damage. But apparently not, it just keeps going like the Eveready bunny. Those 3.0's must be tough little buggers.
 

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