Anyone Use Solder Sleeves?

[COPPERHEAD85]

if its under the hood i add some heat shrink over the connector,under the dash i don't bother with it.
+1 on the cheapo stuff!thats why its cheap.

 

[Destroyer000]

iused to be the one that would crimp all wires an what not... now al i ever do is solder an heat shrink them wont turn back..

 

[MAKG]

Solder isn't used much because it's extra effort on assembly. It IS used in a few locations (e.g., power door lock cross-connections, ignition junction, A/C compressor coil diode, MANY others, generally well hidden inside the harnesses).

Solder is a lead/tin alloy. It simply is not the same as a solid piece of copper.

I use it routinely on sensitive connections (e.g., stereo speaker connections) because it simply is the best electrical contact you can make. Crimp-on connectors do not and cannot make the same full-contact connection, even with an overpriced Snap-On crimper.

A decent heat-shrink will further reinforce the wire, and can completely weatherproof it.

FYI, you can buy a heat gun for around $30 from Harbor Freight. They are much hotter than a hairdryer. Though you might get the latter to work if you turn the blower to low and the heat to high (worth a try).

The downside to soldering is that it can be hard to work with that much heat under a dashboard. I would wholeheartedly recommend it on a workbench, though.

I've done the lighter trick and it works, but it's significantly more heat and can easily overheat stuff.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Well I know the Ford remote start installation course I took through work stated to use solder and then wrap with electrical tape for all connections, and not to use any kind of crimp together connectors. Along with the electrical portion of my apprenticeship schooling all said solder, not connectors.

 

[MAKG]

There are a few tips to good electrical solder, all of which are kinda difficult on an assembled vehicle:

1. Interleave the strands of the two wires, holding them in place with (small) longnose pliers with rubber bands around the handles (this isolates the heat to just the solder connection, and can act like an extra pair of non-burnable hands).

2. Heat the WIRES (not just the solder) so that the solder "wets" the wires.

3. Hold the connection motionless until it hardens. Moving it can introduce cracks into the surface (it often appears dull or mottled, called a "cold connection" -- a good connection is bright, shiny, and smooth).

4. Don't forget to put the heat shrink on one wire (and move it far away from the solder location) BEFORE soldering.

5. Don't overdo the solder. Just enough to wet all the strands is all you need. There is no point to making a big blob of solder, and it can be difficult to insulate properly that way.

 

[Anger]

We used Milwaukee heat guns forever on my job.
One broke & I suggested getting some Harbor Freight models. Broke almost immediately, & know one would use them.

Back to the good stuff.

I like a good crimp connection.