Any tips when owning a 3.0L

[gabe2ranger]

I've had the truck now for a while and have worked on it / taken to a shop, being that said, is their any tips when having the 3.0L to take care of ? Parts recommended to change? cause I'm at the point where I'm tryna have people relate to some of the problems but obviously they cant.

For example I had my RPM's shoot up to 2,000 when coming to a full stop, i dont know what it may be.
Ive change the spark plugs, coil, spark plug wires, front brakes, IAC valve, PCV valve, PVC part thats in the manifold like the option is electric or thermal ( mines electric).Changed the MAF sensor.

Havent changed the differential fluid at all since i got it in 168k miles , we are in 186k now. Most of the parts have been OEM since 2005 so take that in mind, I only change what comes up on the check engine codes. It sometimes like rattles not as hard like before but just when idling and sometimes the MPG is ass but good when on cruise control.

By far this is my first vehicle(trying not to regret) and have learned how to work on cars now with it, anything helps.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Careful changing parts. Ive had dead out of the box IAC, alternator and a few other parts.

At this point Im hesitant changing any parts unless absolutely necessary. These days throwing parts at it can make things actually worse. And then I try to use OEM Motorcraft or good name brand.

Only advice I can give on the 3.slow is to rev the piss out of it if you wanna go anywhere. She likes rpms.
Other than that its pretty bulletproof...has some quirks for sure, but will take major abuse/neglect to break.

 

[superj]

he has the auto trans, no reving it up like that.

its a dead reliable engine. the trans will probably die before the engine does. as far as your high idle, look for any vacuum leaks

 

[pentode]

I've had the truck now for a while and have worked on it / taken to a shop, being that said, is their any tips when having the 3.0L to take care of ? Parts recommended to change? cause I'm at the point where I'm tryna have people relate to some of the problems but obviously they cant.

For example I had my RPM's shoot up to 2,000 when coming to a full stop, i dont know what it may be.
Ive change the spark plugs, coil, spark plug wires, front brakes, IAC valve, PCV valve, PVC part thats in the manifold like the option is electric or thermal ( mines electric).Changed the MAF sensor.

Havent changed the differential fluid at all since i got it in 168k miles , we are in 186k now. Most of the parts have been OEM since 2005 so take that in mind, I only change what comes up on the check engine codes. It sometimes like rattles not as hard like before but just when idling and sometimes the MPG is ass but good when on cruise control.

By far this is my first vehicle(trying not to regret) and have learned how to work on cars now with it, anything helps.

As the others have said, I'd avoid changing anything unless you're certain you need it. The original parts are usually much higher quality than most replacements you can get now.

Having said that, the one part I'd keep an eye/ear on is the cam position sensor. That's not to say you should just replace it - I'd recommend getting either a mechanics stethoscope or a long screwdriver and just touch it to the CPS with the truck running. It can be really tricky to tell the difference between that going bad and a bad pulley bearing but there's absolutely no way you can miss it with a stethoscope. If it's failing it'll chirp like an angry bird.

If it does fail, at best it'll send a bunch of metal through your engine and at worst it'll wipe out your engine as it's the thing driving the oil pump.
I'd highly recommend going OEM on that part too, the only thing available when I did mine was a Dorman and I wish I hadn't.

 

[pjtoledo]

+1 on the cam sync
take the top off and place a few drops of oil at the base of the rotor, on the bushing.
cheap and no need to adjust anything doing just that.

 

[racsan]

regear or swap out your drive axle(s) for a lower ratio, get the rpms up where it likes to run.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Not so much the engine (I had poked in here to tell you they like to rev but you have an auto so…) Tighten the bands on the trans. Do a shift kit (TransGo is good, it’s fiddly valve body work but can be done with the trans in the truck). I’d also recommend a one-piece separator plate, square cut reverse servo o-rings, new gasket for the reverse servo, fresh fluid and filter.

 

[superj]

Regearing would probably be good. I have 4.10 in my truck and it moves

 

[Lefty]

I've had the truck now for a while and have worked on it / taken to a shop, being that said, is their any tips when having the 3.0L to take care of ? Parts recommended to change? cause I'm at the point where I'm tryna have people relate to some of the problems but obviously they cant.

For example I had my RPM's shoot up to 2,000 when coming to a full stop, i dont know what it may be.
Ive change the spark plugs, coil, spark plug wires, front brakes, IAC valve, PCV valve, PVC part thats in the manifold like the option is electric or thermal ( mines electric).Changed the MAF sensor.

Havent changed the differential fluid at all since i got it in 168k miles , we are in 186k now. Most of the parts have been OEM since 2005 so take that in mind, I only change what comes up on the check engine codes. It sometimes like rattles not as hard like before but just when idling and sometimes the MPG is ass but good when on cruise control.

By far this is my first vehicle(trying not to regret) and have learned how to work on cars now with it, anything helps.

Good luck. I bought my 2003 with 130,000 on it. Now I have 150,000. It's a boring but solid engine. Mine still runs just fine.

I would recommend that you see a different mechanic if you are still having prolems. Maybe it's your computer.

As for other things, you may want to replace the hoses.

There are a few extras: perhaps an electric fan, or a K&N air filter. I switched to dual exhaust. Fuel injection cleaner may help. Perhaps Sea Foam the entire engine to blow the gunk out. Switch to all synthetic oil.

Don't expect any big change in acceleration but these little things do add up. My mileage is as good as new, maybe a little better, not bad for a truck with bigger tires.

 

[19Walt93]

For you high idle problem I would clean the throttle body and IAC- that's idle air control valve in English- using throttle body cleaner not carb clean. Make sure not to get any cleaner in the electric part of the IAC. Even if it doesn't fix the problem it's good maintenance. I've heard of Sea Foam but Ford used to recommend Chevron Techron so that's what I'd use.
Lower gears- higher numerically- will improve power and acceleration but may impact gas mileage. In our hilly area lower gears often help MPH and reduce transmission wear because downshifts are less frequent.
K&N filters flow better- just make sure to clean it and reoil it periodically because once they dry out all kinds of dirt gets through them. And be careful not to over oil it or the mass air flow sensor might have a problem. I'd just get a new Motorcraft filter and replace it when it gets dirty.

 

[wpginterceptor]

my old 3L on my 2002 never had any major issues... never had cam sensor issue or nothing like that!! i went thru 3 alternators in its 450 000 mile lifespan.. i DID DO REGULAR MAINTENANCE ON IT!

 

[Lefty]

my old 3L on my 2002 never had any major issues... never had cam sensor issue or nothing like that!! i went thru 3 alternators in its 450 000 mile lifespan.. i DID DO REGULAR MAINTENANCE ON IT!

Nice to know. Thanks

 

[wpginterceptor]

reg maintenance I mean, OIL CHANGES, Plugs!

 

[Lefty]

reg maintenance I mean, OIL CHANGES, Plugs!

Exactly, I switched to all synthetic. And yes, I needed another alternator at one hundred fifty thousand. That little six still runs nice and tight.