Any new firearm purchases?

[85_Ranger4x4]

Allegedly the M3000 that I have has a reputation for being "a good canoe paddle"

A good canoe paddle floats...

My grandfather had a Stoeger coach gun, it looked nice and performance expectations are pretty low for a break action side by side coach gun but it did what it was supposed to do. Not like you can hunt or really target practice with it...

 

[Gunfighter97]

Not new or a purchase. But going through my dad's stuff i came across what I beleive to be my late granddad's revolver. It's a 32 cal. Smith and Wesson. I'm gonna do some research. But I'm pretty sure they quit making these in the 40s. View attachment 150338View attachment 150339

Correct me if I'm wrong, the barrel markings are a bit fuzzy, says .32 W.C.F? .32 Winchester Center Fire or more commonly known as .32-20. That'll be one you'll have to roll your own, but iirc the brass is still made.

 

[Angry Possum]

I recently got my HR218 carry permit for all 50 states, as I'm retired law enforcement. I guess I'll be itching for a new pistol soon. I currently have a Police Service Six S&W .38 and a 3" S&W Chief .38 off duty. Circa 1985.

Here's a pic of my 1985 S&W .38 Chief - 5 shot Off Duty. I just recently found the wooden grips in the garage with my police stuff. I'm not sure if they make these any longer, but they are very reliable guns. Both of my 38s are in very good condition

 

[Gunfighter97]

I recently got my HR218 carry permit for all 50 states, as I'm retired law enforcement. I guess I'll be itching for a new pistol soon. I currently have a Police Service Six S&W .38 and a 3" S&W Chief .38 off duty. Circa 1985.

Here's a pic of my 1985 S&W .38 Chief - 5 shot Off Duty. I just recently found the wooden grips in the garage with my police stuff. I'm not sure if they make these any longer, but they are very reliable guns. Both of my 38s are in very good condition

View attachment 150357

If you've opened up and seen the inside of one S&W double action, you've seen em all. May not produce the exact same model but the basic design lives on.

 

[Angry Possum]

If you've opened up and seen the inside of one S&W double action, you've seen em all. May not produce the exact same model but the basic design lives on.

I could have gotten a 9mm when I was on the force into my later years as they started pushing towards automatics, I had turned down that option because I was on my way to retirement, reason i turned it down was the S&W .38 revolver doesn't jam really, and needs very little maintenance, unlike an automatic does.

 

[Gunfighter97]

I could have gotten a 9mm when I was on the force in my later years as they started pushing automatics, I had turned down that option because I was on my way to retirement, reason is the S&W .38 revolver doesn't jam, and needs very little maintenance, unlike an automatic does.

It's hard to beat wheel guns for many aplications, especially with long standing manual of arms and training behind them. Though you'd be surprised at how many revolvers I see as a gunsmith that display any evidence of an attempt at maintenance (less than 5% of what passes over my bench), though they continue to run as the movements eat themselves. I've only ever had one customer that had taken his apart for a detailed cleaning before. The real missunderstanding between wheel guns and autos is what the required maintenance actually is, ergonomics and shooting technique, and (primarily among autos) what the acceptable quality of a life saving device actually is; thats both an industry and individual problem.

 

[Robert Mangrum]

Correct me if I'm wrong, the barrel markings are a bit fuzzy, says .32 W.C.F? .32 Winchester Center Fire or more commonly known as .32-20. That'll be one you'll have to roll your own, but iirc the brass is still made.

Yes sir 32 WCF-CTG is what's printed on the barrel. I've got a box of western rounds low viscosity 32 cal. rounds that were with it. I think I'm gonna take it over to the local gun shop and have it checked out. I'll probably never fire it. Being my granddad's it's more sentimental than anything

 

[JoshT]

Nothing recently, but after yesterday, probably about to get something(s) firearm related.

If you've got your eye on anything you'd like to have in the near future, this might be a good time to make a move on it. Especially whisper pickles and freedom seeds.

 

[RobbieD]

You're lucky.

I also inherited a .32 revolver from my grand dad, that belonged to his father.

Unfortunately, it's .32 rimfire! Can't feed that one any more.

 

[Gunfighter97]

You're lucky.

I also inherited a .32 revolver from my grand dad, that belonged to his father.

Unfortunately, it's .32 rimfire! Can't feed that one any more.

There has been some work done on rolling your own. I don't know if it went anywhere though, been a while since I looked. It is also possible to convert those to center fire but you're still going to need BP equivalent loads.

 

[JoshT]

When Dad passed last year I inherited a few that were probably grandpa's or great grandpa's guns.

Although they are more common 12 gauge and 22, no way I'd try to shoot them. Especially that LC Smith, not sure me or it would survive.

Unfortunately, I don't know enough about the history of them. Dad's Marlin Golden 39A is about the only one with a history that I really know.

 

[Angry Possum]

It's hard to beat wheel guns for many aplications, especially with long standing manual of arms and training behind them. Though you'd be surprised at how many revolvers I see as a gunsmith that display any evidence of an attempt at maintenance (less than 5% of what passes over my bench), though they continue to run as the movements eat themselves. I've only ever had one customer that had taken his apart for a detailed cleaning before. The real missunderstanding between wheel guns and autos is what the required maintenance actually is, ergonomics and shooting technique, and (primarily among autos) what the acceptable quality of a life saving device actually is; thats both an industry and individual problem.

Being your a gunsmith, what would you recommend for cleaning my 38s?. In the police academy they gave us a nice revolver cleaning kit that came with everything you need. And I often pondered if they used WD40 today for cleaning the chambers and barrel etc, or do they still recommend the solvent in that kit with the small wipes.

PS: What do u think of this cleaning kit? Or should I go with a better one, I don't usually fire my weapons much.

Or this one.

 

[RobbieD]

There has been some work done on rolling your own. I don't know if it went anywhere though, been a while since I looked. It is also possible to convert those to center fire but you're still going to need BP equivalent loads.

Appreciate the info, but this one is just a family relic, a treasured wall-hanger.

It's a break-top Iver & Johnson with bird-head grips; not worth much money-wise, and not worth the trouble to make it go bang again.

It did come with a handful of the rimfire cartridges, so at least I got to shoot it one time.

 

[Gunfighter97]

Being your a gunsmith, what would you recommend for cleaning my 38s?. In the police academy they gave us a nice revolver cleaning kit that came with everything you need. And I often pondered if they used WD40 today for cleaning the chambers and barrel etc, or do they still recommend the solvent in that kit with the small wipes.

PS: What do u think of this cleaning kit? Or should I go with a better one, I don't usually fire my weapons much.

View attachment 150358


Or this one.



View attachment 150360

Personally, I like the categorical (pistol, rifle, or shotgun) caliber universal kits by Ruger. The rods are really nice. The hopes is ok, but their oil isn't all that great and there are better solvents. I like Lucas gun care lubricants and solvent.

The big ticket for long term revolver health is to periodically (once every few years if you shoot regularly but aren't putting cases of ammo through it) take the side plate off, take THE ENTIRE movement out, clean it, and put it back with grease and oil in the appropriate points. Most only ever use oil; btw, the lucas gun grease is AWESOME. I use it in everything, including my ARs.

If you find the cylinder rotation gumms up, don't take it fully appart. Take it as far apart as you can without tools after the cylinder/crane assembly is seperated from the frame. Boil it in water, yes water and then dry with shop air. Brush away any fowling with a stiff bristled nylon brush followed by an over night soak in kerosene. Exercise the extractor while submerged in the kerosene. Let the kerosene dry out and then re-oil with your choice of gun oil.

As far as wd40, its not real great at anything in the firearms world other than displacing water. Its in the name after all, Water Displacing - #40 more cleaner than lubricant.

There are some solvents that turn blue with copper/brass exposure. They are the best for determining when a bore or chamber is CLEAN as the patch will no longer change color. Keep in mind these require a special rod, otherwise the solvent will react to the brass left behind by the rod itself. Thats more for precision rifles, your revolver wont mind if a bit gets left behind. After solvent, I flush the bore with denatured alcohol and then run a patch of light oil through the bore for storage or before taking to wet/humid weather.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I haven't seen it for awhile but Lucas gun oil is really good stuff too.