Another all brake lines project

[BlueSplash]

Had a scare today, thank God, I was already pulling in to the drive way coasting to stop. Lost brake pedal pressure, found brake fluid spray around the engine bay, the front brake line feed coming from the master cylinder rusted out at the point where it divides between the two front calipers.

Tried to do a quick read on others who have replaced all their brake lines, I just need to clarify a few things. For now, immediate need to replace the brake line from the master cyclinder to the front brake split.

Vehicle: 93 ranger splash 3.0L V6 2WD Auto transmission.

1. I read that for the master cylinder side, I need to have a bubble flare.
Is this the only one that needs a bubble flare and all others are double flares.

2. The tubing used is 3/16 Outside Diameter. Is this standard for rangers.

3. Any recommendation on flaring tool make / brand.

4. Since the line rusted out, do I need to replace that split box separately
by the driver side front tire or it will come when I buy a new brake hose for each caliper.
I did not get to look under the truck, but it looks like it is part of the caliper hose held by some clip.

5. Any objections to re-using the fittings. Don't know if I can easily get
off shelf replacements from my local auto stores.

Thanks for your input

 

[BlueSplash]

Which master cylinder fitting I need

what size fitting I need for the master cylinder side, M10-1.0 or M12-1.0
to fit the rear port, closer to the brake booster.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

I just usually reuse the old fittings if they are not rounded off.

 

[BlueSplash]

Bought a metric bolt, M10-1.0 pitch, 20 mm in length. Plug the master cylinder port so I can take my time to fabricate the brake line and not worry about leaking brake fluid or any rubber plug coming loose while working in the area to shape the tube.

Hand tight in slowly until it stops, that is it. Also using a 10 gauge solid electrical wire to dry run shaping the brake line.

 

[AllanD]

On a flaring tool you want one that does "double flares" and one where the
screw clamp is securely mounted to the beam when you are cranking on it.

A tool made by Parker or Imperial-Eastman would be good also good are
the tools made by Rothenberger.

The more you spend on a flaring tool kit the happier you are likely to be with it



As an example look at this tool on ebay and look at how the screw tower mounts to the clamp bar...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Goul...Z230653246853QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

See how you rotate the tower onto the clamp bar that there is a groove that stabalizes the clamp tower?


Now look a this one, see how the clamp just hooks under the beam?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Double-Flaring-Tool-Kit-/140585961978?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20bb9389fa

This style flaring tool is CRAP.

The thing is the clamp tower MUST stay vertical relative to the clamp bar and not shift in ant direction while you are flaring... a crooked flare is a useless flare.

Next ALWAYS put the flare nut onto the tube before you start flaring...

For a beginner you will often make a perfect flare only to discover the flare nut still sitting on the workbench.... Oops!

And if you don't want to be doing it all over again in a couple of years Summit racing sells 3/16" brake line tube in STAINLESS STEEL., stainless is a bit more annoying to work with but you have the satisfaction of knowing that once you are done, you are done FOREVER.

They also sell flare nut kits, my recomentdation is buy TWO 25foot coils of tubing and TWO of the nut kits

And Like I said above get a GOOD flaring tool, cheap tools are rarely a "Bargain" in the long run.

AD

 

[BlueSplash]

Thanks for the flaring tool suggestions... Ended buying a $70.00 craftsman set before starting the repair. Like you said, the bargain tool is a waste of time. Have replaced the line from Master Cyclinder to the front driver side hose, enough that I can move the truck out of the way while I study the replacement order sequence. Not a professional mechanic by trade, so I am a little slow going on this one.

 

[BlueSplash]

Almost Half way into brake lines project

Moving slowly, be patient, not a professional mechanic. Here is some updates where I am and my notes.

Replaced the Front line from Master Cylinder to driver side front wheel block. Used about 36-38 inch tubing, following the original bends.

I have run a pre-made 60 inch tubing from the driver side to the passenger side block. I have to divert connecting this because of change in priorities as you will see.

Started my day soaking the rear wheel fittings with penetrating oil, decided I need to remove the spare to make it easy to work on the lines. Took me about 30 minutes to free up the spare and corroded swing down arm. Need a 3/4 inch, 10 mm and 13 mm. Just when I was testing if the fittings started to break loose, a brake line started to leak bad. Ended working on the brake lines over the differential.

Used about 34 inch of tubing to each wheel cylinder from the distribution block. Beware of this. the distribution block is standard 3/8-24 double flare. The wheel cylinder is 7/16-24 double flare. I had made the lines and all, only to find out the wheel cylinder is wrong fittings. My local auto parts store came thru for the day, sold me EDELMAN p/n 121034 that fits the wheel cylinder. Cleaned and greased the spare swing arm with Marine grade grease. Everything is back for now.

For those looking for a cheap tubing bender that seems to work well for 90 degree bends, Harbor freight have one for less than $10 with blue handle.

Questions for the experts here:

I will replace the line from the Master cylinder to the ABS unit and the line to the distribution block. What precautions should I do to minimize air getting into the ABS unit. I try to gravity bleed the new line before I connect to minimize the air in the line.

If anyone has idea of what size replacement fitting to get for the ABS unit instead of re-using them, that would be great.

Thanks for your suggestions

 

[BlueSplash]

Raining in North Jersey, cannot work on the truck outside. Anyway, found another useful fitting. Edelmann p/n 265000 It is an adapter to use standard 3/8-24 inverted flare to connect with 12-1.0 metric bubble flare. I plan to use this for the Master Cylinder port going to the rear brake lines. About $6.00 but I will bite for the inconvenience of not having a bubble flaring tool.

 

[BlueSplash]

Worked on the line from RABS hydraulic unit, left side frame rail to the rear rubber hose.

For the shortbed, standard cab like my truck, I cut it too long at 110 inches, 105 inches
should be more like it. I had difficulty removing the fitting, because I did not lift the entire left side of the truck. Have to cut the tube as close to the fitting and used a 6-point 7/16 socket with 18-inch breaker bar. Surprise of the day, the fitting at the RABS module is a 12-1.0 metric, double flare, not bubble flare as I anticipated. Additional research on this type of fitting, Dorman appears to makes them but is only available on their brake fitting kit boxes. I will have to call them to make this for sale as stand alone.
Ended re-using the old fitting after drilling out the tube and cleaning it with stiff wire brush.

I have a spool of plastic spiral wrap used to bundle wire harness, I wrapped the tubing along with electrical tape since I will have no control once it gets inside the frame rail by the gas tank. Will add some 3/16-I.D. plastic tubing where I can see and wire tie to the old brake line.

 

[HRTKD]

I'm getting ready to replace the booster and master cylinder on my Ranger. I was thinking about replacing the brake lines, but after reading your thread I'm thinking I won't. Are prepared brake lines (correct length with the necessary ends) not available? I took a quick look at a couple sites I've bought auto parts from before and I'm not seeing brake lines listed.