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Aftermarket EFI...


rusty ol ranger

2.9 Mafia-Don
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Sep 22, 2007
Messages
13,987
City
Michigan
Vehicle Year
1987
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2.9 V6
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Manual
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A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
I know...this is coming from me.

When i build my original 351 from my LTD im thinking about trying an aftermarket TBI setup.

It would cost me right around 1000 bucks to run the Aces Deuce 2bbl TBI setup.

Has anyone ran this? Are they any good?

The biggest thing thats held me back on this is my general crustyness toward EFI...and my lack of confidence in my ability to get it to function.

Im mostly worried about fuel pump installation and return line installation....as in...where the hell to put the line without risking ruining my filler neck or new fuel tank.

To worried? Yeah probably.


Im building it for torque...as this is a heavy car and i kinda wanna keep the airplane gears. I want reliabilty over all out power but i still want some oomph off a redlight....

Heres what im considering...

77 351w block (rebuilt to stock bottom end)

GT40/GT40p heads (yes i know bolt holes need drilled bigger) (or would i be better off keeping the 77 heads for torque? Havent got a clear answer on this)

Shorty headers

Either a gear drive conversion timing set or double roller 0* timing set.

Stage 2 torque cam (cant remember the specs exactly, but it was rated for 1500rpm to 4500 rpm powerband, slightly lopey idle)

and either a 650 edelbrock with a dual plane or run the factory 2bbl intake with the dueces EFI.

Ive also thought of doing the 393 stroker thing....but once again not sure if its worth it...any opinion on that?



Input from yall?
 
Last edited:
First suggestion would be go with a brand people have heard of like the holley sniper.. or FiTech. Both can be setup returnless.
 
First suggestion would be go with a brand people have heard of like the holley sniper.. or FiTech. Both can be setup returnless.
I was kinda lookin at price. The holley setup is like 2k+ i believe
 
I was kinda lookin at price. The holley setup is like 2k+ i believe

The basic holley 4bbl setup is 1260$ and they offer a kit that comes with an external pump and everything else for just under 1600$..

I like the drop in retrofit kits better than an external pump though.. either way would be about 1600.
 
The basic holley 4bbl setup is 1260$ and they offer a kit that comes with an external pump and everything else for just under 1600$..

I like the drop in retrofit kits better than an external pump though.. either way would be about 1600.
Guess ill have to do some more research then.
 
I would use the GT40 heads and avoid the "P" head because of manifold/header fitment. The stock 77 heads were less crappy than 73-76 heads, but only a little. I would also stay with a carburetor unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket. The Motorcraft 2150 is a great carb and would work fine with what you propose once you step up the jets about 2 sizes. My first choice for a 4 barrel would be an Edelbrock Performer intake with a 600 cfm, electric choke Holley #80457 like I have on both my Ranger and Mustang. Edelbrock carbs are shiny turds. Both also have double roller timing chains. I'd pick a cam with less than 210 degrees intake duration at .050 and a 112 lobe seperation. Tighter seperation will make a lumpier idle and peakier torque curve, 112 or 114 will make a wider flat toque curve and be better for a heavy car. I'd keep the Duraspark but recurve the centrifugal advance to be all in by 2800-3000.
 


Then just get some snazzy AN lines/hardware and be styyyyyyylin
 
You get 1 newer EFI vehicle and now you’re on team EFI swap the planet… I’m proud of you.
 
I would use the GT40 heads and avoid the "P" head because of manifold/header fitment. The stock 77 heads were less crappy than 73-76 heads, but only a little. I would also stay with a carburetor unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket. The Motorcraft 2150 is a great carb and would work fine with what you propose once you step up the jets about 2 sizes. My first choice for a 4 barrel would be an Edelbrock Performer intake with a 600 cfm, electric choke Holley #80457 like I have on both my Ranger and Mustang. Edelbrock carbs are shiny turds. Both also have double roller timing chains. I'd pick a cam with less than 210 degrees intake duration at .050 and a 112 lobe seperation. Tighter seperation will make a lumpier idle and peakier torque curve, 112 or 114 will make a wider flat toque curve and be better for a heavy car. I'd keep the Duraspark but recurve the centrifugal advance to be all in by 2800-3000.
I was wondering if a 2150 could handle it. I got a 1.21 venturi core i was gonna try to rebuild if i can get it clean enough...its full of ethanol crustys.

The main reason i was thinking of EFI was the fact with the kit i originally mentioned was i could get the main kit, distributor and coil for like 1200 bucks. Roughly 500 or more then a good 4bbl and intake. But the holley (efi) setup would be north of 2k.

The numbers on cams is where i start getting lost. But i do want low end snort with a fat curve. The chances of me spending much, if any time over 4500-5krpm are slim to none.

What exactly is the difference for headers between the GT40 and GT40p's? I read theres a difference but never read what it was exactly.

You get 1 newer EFI vehicle and now you’re on team EFI swap the planet… I’m proud of you.
Dont celebrate yet.
 


Then just get some snazzy AN lines/hardware and be styyyyyyylin
Unfourtantly i dont think that would work with my tank.
 
I was wondering if a 2150 could handle it. I got a 1.21 venturi core i was gonna try to rebuild if i can get it clean enough...its full of ethanol crustys.

Handle what? If you are going to keep the stock rearend, what is it, 2.75 to 1? I think those cars are great, I just worked on one with a 400, a c6, and it had a 2 something rear gear in it. Who needs overdrive with that? But the engine never see's any really high rpms, so you do not need a lot of airflow. The headers are probably a waste. A "lumpy" cam is going to be counter productive. Unless you want to hold the transmission in 1st and let it wind out to about 80 mph before you shift.

A 4 barrel might work good if you keep it small. The front 2 barrels could be smaller than a larger 2 barrel. A dual exhaust on the stock exhaust manifolds will let it sound good, without all the fitment issues with headers.

If you want to turn this car into a hot rod, the first thing you need to do is change the rear gear.
 
Handle what? If you are going to keep the stock rearend, what is it, 2.75 to 1? I think those cars are great, I just worked on one with a 400, a c6, and it had a 2 something rear gear in it. Who needs overdrive with that? But the engine never see's any really high rpms, so you do not need a lot of airflow. The headers are probably a waste. A "lumpy" cam is going to be counter productive. Unless you want to hold the transmission in 1st and let it wind out to about 80 mph before you shift.

A 4 barrel might work good if you keep it small. The front 2 barrels could be smaller than a larger 2 barrel. A dual exhaust on the stock exhaust manifolds will let it sound good, without all the fitment issues with headers.

If you want to turn this car into a hot rod, the first thing you need to do is change the rear gear.
If a 2150 was gonna be adequate is what i should of said.

Like i said...no not a hot rod...but do want some oomph off the line. Its geared at 2.50, yes i realize thats a major hinderence but i also want something i can cruise 3 or 4 hours without worrying its gonna suffer RPM grenade.

The cams im looking at are torque cams. I dont want something lumpy and high end biased.

If i wanted a hotrod yes id swap it out to a 4.10 gear, probably a hot 460, and be done...and never exceed 50mph.

Like i said...end of the day i want some holeshot snort and decent reliabilty for cruiseing.

Just trying to sort out the best way to go about it.
 
It’s just the fact that you’re open to the idea… even if it never happens.
I am for sure open to it. Guess it kinda depends on what everything else is gonna cost. Id like to stay in the 2-2500 range all said and done including machine work...which...for what im aiming for i think is more then doable
 

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