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Advice wanted. Old 280k miles...not much money


bgrieves1

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Apr 22, 2025
Messages
79
City
Missouri
Vehicle Year
1997
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Hello friends. As you may know I got ripped off by my *trusted mechanic*, but what to do now? I won't have much money for 6 to 12 months. This engine has a rear main seal leak....usually 1/2 to 1 quart of oil is lost. 4.0 4wd 1997 OHV.
I just got an engine hoist. I was thinking for the education, I could pull the engine, clean it up, inspect it more. Replace rear main seal. I know this seal may not last if the engine bearings are old, but I thought for $15 I can do that.
It would be an education.
What can I do to this engine that doesn't cost much? Advice is welcome. I guess the silver lining here is that I might learn something. The engine is already pretty old so why not learn on it?
I could pull a salvage yard engine later on and perhaps improve things for not too much money...or I might break something and make things worse is my fear....but that is why I probably need to pull this engine. To build my confidence .....
 
how quick does it lose that amount of oil?
 
Hello. It pretty quickly loses 1/2 quart of oil. Might lose more if driven more or parked ....I believe if parked with nose up.
 
are you 100& sure its a rear main leak and not just an oil pan gasket? My first recommendation would be do a thorough degreasing on the engine, add some UV dye and get a black light. That will tell you where the oil is leaking from
 
Yes that would be something I can do. Jack it up. Put Jack stands in there. clean the engine. UV dye...where do you get that? You put that in your oil then use a flashlight?
 
Yes that would be something I can do. Jack it up. Put Jack stands in there. clean the engine. UV dye...where do you get that? You put that in your oil then use a flashlight?
almost any auto parts store carries the dye. Some have the blacklights to. It needs to be a UV light, if they don't have one, i picked one up from harbor freight, comes in handy for finding leaks
 
Thank you very much. UV dye for engine leaks is new to me. I have so much to learn. I am watching YouTubes on it now.
 
you might be able to clean it and not need the dye. with how much you are losing, it might become evident on its own.
 
Yes. It might be a no brainer. I will jack it up and clean it and see what is obvious. It is good I know UV dye is an option. I didn't know about that before today. My AC was charged and it leaked out so I have to find a leak there if anyone has any advice there, too
 
Take a really close look at the frost plugs. The ones in the heads get very thin from my experience, unless the fluid was changed regularly.
There is dye for AC. But probably not the same way to apply it as for oil and other fluids, like radiator.
 
Take a really close look at the frost plugs. The ones in the heads get very thin from my experience, unless the fluid was changed regularly.
There is dye for AC. But probably not the same way to apply it as for oil and other fluids, like radiator.
I found this YouTube on freeze plugs:


Never heard of a frost or freeze plug before.
 
I don't have time to watch but most likely its fine advice. They are actually sand casting plugs, used to remove the sand from inside the block when first cast. The sand is used to form the inside channels. But everyone calls them frost plugs, including me.
 
@bgrieves1

If you are pulling the engine and dropping the oil pan, that is an optimal time to:
• inspect your main bearings
∆ oil pump and pick-up
∆ water pump
∆ timing set

With a fresh oil pump/pick-up, water pump and timing set on a 280k engine with the knowledge that its main bearings are within limits, you could expect another 80k-120k out of those systems.

I almost hate to say it but it would also be extremely prudent to have your valve seats, guides, valves, rockers and push rods inspected for servicability.
 
Thank you. I don't know much about the above. I will have to research each tip you gave. Thank you. I was wondering what I should do when I pull the engine.
 
BTW, do I really need a torque wrench?
 

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