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Accurate timing?


You're saying it's 2 inches of travel around the crank pulley before the piston moves again? I don't think I understand.
 
You're saying it's 2 inches of travel around the crank pulley before the piston moves again? I don't think I understand.
No, I think the simplest way I can explain it is that the timing marks on the crank are way off. The original TDC notch is now in the BTDC range, and true TDC is further down the crank. In other words, the original timing marks are probably no good to me at this point.
 
Are you using the straight edged, sort of triangle shaped timing pointer or are you looking through the round hole shaped one? Should be using the straight edge one. Regardless, if the engine was assembled correctly, and hasn't jumped time or some crazy incredibly unlikely thing, top center should line up with the timing pointer.

Are you 100% sure that there are no other marks on the balancer that might be covered up with dirt & rust? I had to clean the one on my old '85 really well before I could even see them.

 
Are you using the straight edged, sort of triangle shaped timing pointer or are you looking through the round hole shaped one? Should be using the straight edge one. Regardless, if the engine was assembled correctly, and hasn't jumped time or some crazy incredibly unlikely thing, top center should line up with the timing pointer.

Are you 100% sure that there are no other marks on the balancer that might be covered up with dirt & rust? I had to clean the one on my old '85 really well before I could even see them.

Yes, I am using the pointer and not the circular piece (what is that even for??). And I am positive first and surface corrosion are not obscuring more marks, I went down that rabbit hole when I first sought them out.
 
Sheared key? Is that even possible on the 2.3?
 
The crank puller is a solid piece, there’s no way for the markings to move relative to the keywsy in the pulley. A sheared key might explain them being that far off.

I’ve included a picture of my old crank pulley to show the timing marks.
 

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The crank puller is a solid piece, there’s no way for the markings to move relative to the keywsy in the pulley. A sheared key might explain them being that far off.

I’ve included a picture of my old crank pulley to show the timing marks.
Yes mine looked just like that except for the gray paint.
 
Sheared key? I wouldn't know as I have the 2.8.
I must've misread or gotten this thread mixed up with another. Sorry.

Same principle tho. Any chance the crank pulley is moving relative to the crank?
 
That is just a step above my know how. I'm assuming I can tell this by watching the rotor when I turn the pulley manually, right?
 

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