About to start front suspension rebuild

[Jay11]

1998 Ranger 2.5 129k miles.
Question 1:
I am about to start suspension job. Specifically replace upper control arms, lower control arms ball joints and bushings only, sway bar links and stabilizer bar bushings. I am watching UT videos and I am pretty handy. Just that I have never had a need to do this job until now Any tips you can share on the order of removal and then installation? or any other helpful tip.

Question 2"
I have an oil leak, front of the engine towards the bottom. It's not dripping but the area is caked with oil wetness and mud. UT vids led me to suspect crankshaft seal needs replaced. Problem is when I search for the part on RA, Amazon, AZ, etc. all are giving me different parts (as in the part itself, not just the part number). Heck I am so confused. Which is the correct part number? Should I also replace the camshaft seal? I will be replacing the radiator due to a leak, TStat, serp. belt, idler, tensioner. Thought with the rad out might as well take care of the oil leak.

 

[pacstud]

I just finished rebuilding the suspension on my 98 2wd. Are you coil springs?

Couple things I learned:

• Get good cam bolts, the uppers are factory set and you'll need adjustable. When it was all over, I had to use a chain store alignment, but they had 30 day free rechecks. It was pretty much toe only (they tell you caster/camber is within spec...it's probably not) so I just took it in, got the print out when they were done, tweaked at home, then brought back. Only took three total trips and I had it pinged pretty good. But if I had a good alignment guy, I'd have just done that. I don't.
• I tried the bushing/ball joint only on LCA, didn't work. Couldn't get the bushings out. If you can, great. So I ended up ordering whole LCAs. The ball joint wasn't as good, but I can just replace that in a few years. Mark and note the REAR PASSENGER LCA bolt before removal!! It is a factory caster (I believe) setting. I just marked it and put it back there when finished.
• I did the springs and shock absorbers while I was there, you can check your door code to see how firm the current spring setup is and go from there (unless you're torsion).
• As far as order, I pulled the shock, sway link, then LCA/spring, install, THEN went to UCA. Sway bushing is a ten minute whenever job.
• Biggest PITA was getting the spring compress tool just so the thread would go through the top mount hole. Smarter people than me on this site could probably help you with that. Cost me about an hour or so each side. That, and the bushings on the LCAs. They just weren't coming out. I wrestling match I lost badly. I probably could have cut/air chiseled them out, but ran out of time. 20 ton press, the LCA started bending before the bushing would budge!

Have fun!

 

[Jay11]

I just finished rebuilding the suspension on my 98 2wd. Are you coil springs?

• Biggest PITA was getting the spring compress tool just so the thread would go through the top mount hole. Smarter people than me on this site could probably help you with that. Cost me about an hour or so each side. That, and the bushings on the LCAs. They just weren't coming out. I wrestling match I lost badly. I probably could have cut/air chiseled them out, but ran out of time. 20 ton press, the LCA started bending before the bushing would budge!

Have fun!

I have coil springs. Appreciate your tips. Is it specific cam bolts for this truck or general ones will fit just fine?
20T and the LCA bushings couldn't pop out? Had you removed the clip around the top of the lower ball joint that needs removed first or they just have a reputation?
Any comments on question #2?

 

[pacstud]

I think I used the moog bolts (80065). No clue if they're universal or specific.

I suppose you have less miles, probably less rust weld. My ball joint came out easy peasy, but the bushings...no. The lip on the LCA started bending and the bushing didn't budge. If I really wanted, like I said, I could have gone through a few blades and sawed the middle, then tried to air hammer it out, I just didn't want to do all that. I think getting full LCAs was $180, the bushings/ball joints were $110, so $70 to not have to f with the bushings anymore.

I haven't had any oil issues, so I can't help you on the #2 question.

 

[Jay11]

Are the cup type covers on the ball joints supposed to include a retaining ring, cos these Moogs don't. I am reusing the old LCA as seller sent a different part and pressed new bushings and ball joints in. .

 

[Jay11]

Mark and note the REAR PASSENGER LCA bolt before removal!! It is a factory caster (I believe) setting. I just marked it and put it back there when finished.

I forgot to do this. Is it only the passenger side that's has caster setting, and driver side does not?

 

[pacstud]

I forgot to do this. Is it only the passenger side that's has caster setting, and driver side does not?

On mine, yes. If you didn't clean the area, you probably can get a pretty good mark of orientation from before removal. If those aren't factory LCAs, or the previous owner put in new bushings, it may be guesswork anyway. Hence the upper cam bolts and final adjustment when you're finished.

 

[Jay11]

I have torqued U/LCA bolts to 100-110 lb-ft. Installed new adjustable type camber bolts for UCA. I see the LCA rear camber bolt (it's the only one, the front is normal type) has markings. I tried my best to line up the oblong washers best as I could to where they were previously. I am just wondering how I should take the said markings into account? Do shops adjust this particular bolt during alignment? Is this bolt common in other cars/trucks or just unique to the ranger? (I always do self alignment for my cars but if I can't quite get it will head to the shop, especially because I never new of this camber bolt, just in case it throws a monkey wrench in here. None of the vids mentions this LCA rear camber bolt-I heard if first from you, then I had to go back and look them over. I dissambled the passenger side at night so I didn't notice)

I installed this camber bolt by inserting from the rear to the front.

 

[pacstud]

The best I could find out is that particular passenger rear LCA bolt is a "factory caster setting". So I just put mine back where it was. To be fair, mine has 230k more miles, so it was very obvious where it went lol.

The factory UCA bolts were also preset, I believe, by that trapezoidal washer. So I think if you still had stock UCA and messed with the lower, it could jack up your camber/caster a bit. However, since you're replacing the UCA and putting in cam bolts, you should be good.

I ended up paying $100 for discount tire kid to "align" it. I took the print out home, fine tuned it myself, and took it back (they offer free rechecks for 30 days). Their computer is way too lenient on "acceptable" ranges. I think it took three total trips, but the last two they didn't do anything, just put it on the rack and said it's good, but I got the reading and fine tuned some more.

I'm assuming that's what others mean by "toe and go" shops, they don't touch the camber/caster much, idk. I'm glad you got that all done though, I think other than the spring my biggest PITA was that bolt, trying to torque and keep it from moving.