About to start front suspension rebuild

[Jay11]

1998 Ranger 2.5 129k miles.
Question 1:
I am about to start suspension job. Specifically replace upper control arms, lower control arms ball joints and bushings only, sway bar links and stabilizer bar bushings. I am watching UT videos and I am pretty handy. Just that I have never had a need to do this job until now Any tips you can share on the order of removal and then installation? or any other helpful tip.

Question 2"
I have an oil leak, front of the engine towards the bottom. It's not dripping but the area is caked with oil wetness and mud. UT vids led me to suspect crankshaft seal needs replaced. Problem is when I search for the part on RA, Amazon, AZ, etc. all are giving me different parts (as in the part itself, not just the part number). Heck I am so confused. Which is the correct part number? Should I also replace the camshaft seal? I will be replacing the radiator due to a leak, TStat, serp. belt, idler, tensioner. Thought with the rad out might as well take care of the oil leak.

 

[pacstud]

I just finished rebuilding the suspension on my 98 2wd. Are you coil springs?

Couple things I learned:

• Get good cam bolts, the uppers are factory set and you'll need adjustable. When it was all over, I had to use a chain store alignment, but they had 30 day free rechecks. It was pretty much toe only (they tell you caster/camber is within spec...it's probably not) so I just took it in, got the print out when they were done, tweaked at home, then brought back. Only took three total trips and I had it pinged pretty good. But if I had a good alignment guy, I'd have just done that. I don't.
• I tried the bushing/ball joint only on LCA, didn't work. Couldn't get the bushings out. If you can, great. So I ended up ordering whole LCAs. The ball joint wasn't as good, but I can just replace that in a few years. Mark and note the REAR PASSENGER LCA bolt before removal!! It is a factory caster (I believe) setting. I just marked it and put it back there when finished.
• I did the springs and shock absorbers while I was there, you can check your door code to see how firm the current spring setup is and go from there (unless you're torsion).
• As far as order, I pulled the shock, sway link, then LCA/spring, install, THEN went to UCA. Sway bushing is a ten minute whenever job.
• Biggest PITA was getting the spring compress tool just so the thread would go through the top mount hole. Smarter people than me on this site could probably help you with that. Cost me about an hour or so each side. That, and the bushings on the LCAs. They just weren't coming out. I wrestling match I lost badly. I probably could have cut/air chiseled them out, but ran out of time. 20 ton press, the LCA started bending before the bushing would budge!

Have fun!