99 4x4 Ranger with front passenger wheel noise.

[rebelrider.mike]

A few months ago, I started to notice a noise coming from the front passenger area. This noise has been getting louder the longer I've ignored it, and I finally decided to take the tire off and have a look.

The first thing I noticed was that the vacuum operated hub came right off without tools. Also noticed that the vacuum hose was broken in two places. The brake assembly came off without too much trouble.

I then noticed that the wheel bearing assembly was seized to the axle. The plastic retaining ring was pretty mangled. Once I finally got the bearing assembly removed I found a needle bearing in the back that had let go if its needles.


I'm thinking that this is the source of the noise and the reason the bearing and axle were stuck together?

I decided to take the drivers side wheel apart too. The locking hub needed some help from a small screwdriver, but seemed to come off easier that it probably should have. The vacuum hose on the driver side was intact, but the fitting has rusted out. Again, the break assembly came out without much trouble. The bearing nuts though, broke 3 extensions before coming loose. Thread locker maybe.



The driver side wheel bearing assembly seems to be fine. I noticed a fair amount of black grease on this side vs. no grease at all on the passenger side. I've heard that the hubs shouldn't be greased, but maybe a bit of oil is ok. Not sure about the rest of the wheel.

I've put an order in for a set of wheel bearing assemblies, a set of manual locking hubs, and a set of plastic retaining rings. Not sure what to do about what remains of the vacuum system.

 

[franklin2]

If you feel you must lube the hubs, a little wd40 is all I would put on them. A light oil may work too. Anything thicker, you will regret it when it's10 degrees outside and you want the hubs to lock in.

 

[4x4junkie]

Should be able to just leave the vacuum system as is, as it will no longer be in use if you put manual hubs on (I s'pose you could put vacuum caps or something on the ends coming from the truck maybe).

A VERY light coat of bearing grease is fine on the parts inside manual hubs (particularly the gear the axle shaft spins on), although if you're getting new hubs, they should already be pre-lubed.

 

[SenorNoob]

I think before I swapped that style to manual hubs, I'd just go the later live axle arrangement. AFAIK all of the parts you need are wear items anyway. (Bearing hubs and cv axles)

 

[rebelrider.mike]

Thanks all. Here's what I bought:
Wheel bearing and hub assembly
Axle retainer rings
Axle locking hubs

The price difference for one vs. two wheel bearing assemblies was small enough that I decided to replace both sides. I also went with the more expensive name brand hub locks because so many reviewers said the cheep ones were a waste of money.

unfortunately, the courier that delivered the parts was not kind to the wheel bearings. The box arrived pretty smashed up and one of the plastic ends was broken. Fortunately, the plastic thing on the undamaged driver side bearing was fine, and it fit on the new wheel bearing.


Everything went together like it was made on purpose. Except the passenger side ABS connector. It looks identical to the original, but just won't fit on the truck's connector. Even with the pins removed. For now I have them tapped together, but if I can de-pin the old connector without breaking it, I should be able to swap them out.

The noise is gone and the truck drives fine. I didn't learn about live axles until I finished all this. I still don't know much about it or why it's beneficial. I only use the 4WD once every five or six years, so it probably doesn't matter. I do know that by doing both sides myself, I saved about $700. Which is a lot, considering I'm still unemployed.

I did notice that although the brake hoses and pads look good, the calipers are getting pretty crusty. Maybe I'll rebuild those while they're still working.

 

[franklin2]

Live axles are not beneficial. They create more drag going down the road when in 2wd, and all that stuff is turning needlessly, wearing itself out.

But the OEM's strike a balance between cost and complexity, versus the longevity of the vehicle. The lock-out hub assemblies with a axle disconnect of some kind is more complex, more expensive to make. And we all know the OEM's don't expect you to have a vehicle over 10 years old in the driveway.