98+ Ranger 4x4 build suspension

[JoshT]

Not really sure how to title this so bear with me. As mentioned a few times around the forum, I'm highly considering changing directions on the build of my 99 Ranger. No need to get into the backstory, it's all out there somewhere. Simply put it is currently V8 swapped with 4R70W and AWD transfer case, and mildly lowered. Needs change and I'm not conpletely satisfied with the AWD streeet performance (likely combination of worn trans, suspension, and gearing). Due in large part to the "needs change" portion, I'm considering going back up and reinstalling a 4x4 transfer case. If I'm going back up I don't want to stop at a simple torsion twist, I will be installing a lift kit and bigger tires.

Anyhow trying to get a feel for what I want to put into the suspension. There are a few points that it will have or that I want to do, but not sure of the details on how to get there.

1) All suspension lift, no body lift. Don't like them and should be able to run all the tire I want/need on a suspension lift.
2) Ditch torsion bars, run coil overs.
3) Ditch lift blocks in favor of springs and longer shackles if necessary.
4) 33-35" tires. Not entirely sure what lift fits with what tires. Probably just 33" that might fit with a torsion twist, but want a better ride and clearence than what I'd get from that.
5) Swaybar disconnects. Definitely keeping them, but want to easily disconnect if necessary/desired.
6) 2004+ brakes in front, Explorer disc brake axle rear, hydroboost. (not really suspension, but will probably be tied in with the lifting)
7) Driveshafts likely needed considering other modifications, but will have to get parts installed to measure for custom.

I'm seeing that Rough Country and Superlift advertise lift kits for this generation Ranger, though have been told that the latter is discontinued. Are there any other options out there? I'm looking to go taller, but not notably wider. I don't see long travel kits and flared/bulged fenders being of any need or advantage for me.

Honestly my build will probably be 80% looks good (and driven to work), and 20% offroad, but I want it to be 100% capable. For me offroading will probably be more akin to what overlanders and the vegabond group will be doing, rather than the rock crawling and high difficulty trails in OHV parks. Not saying that I'm going to equip it for overlanding, I prefer having a stationary camp and exploring from, but that's the kind of terrain that I see myself hitting offroad. Maybe an overlanding type trailer to hook on when I want to adventure? No desert or dunes to get into in this part of the country, so not much in the way of high speed offroad running, and I don't care for the breakage that goes with extreme offroading.

The build is a ways off, but trying to develop a game plan and watch for deals on parts I plan to use. Before this happens, I need to get the transmission and transfer case sorted. At least the transmission rebuilt/replaced and the reansfer case on hand since it might require custom driveshafts to install (don't want to do that twice). Will be putting the F-100 in the shop for a complete rework before this happens and that is likely to take a year or few. Also possibly a move in there which will eat into time and budget, but it gets me closer to job and shop so means more time to work on stuff.

 

[scotts90ranger]

The easiest T case to install is a 4406 from a F150 and assuming you're running a stock Explorer front driveline you want a front driveline from a F150 or Expedition with a 4.6L, you'll need to get a 13-10 to 13-30 conversion joint for the front axle end of the shaft. For the rear shaft I don't know what you'll need, on a V8 Explorer you use the 5.4L rear shaft from an Expedition and it just bolts in but the length on a Ranger will likely be different... Expeditions didn't come with manual T cases, if you have the stuff to run an electric case you can use one of those too I believe...

As for lift and tire fitment I'm not sure, you'll probably want a 4" lift if I had to guess.

 

[JoshT]

I know what I need for converting back to 4x4. Only issue there is I need to figure out how to positively ID a TOD 4406 from a part time ESOF 4406. Expeditions and maybe some F-150s had the automatic 4wd or torque on demand version of the 4406. I don't trust local yards to not try and give me a TOD case when I request the other.

The lifts already recommend a longer aftermarket front shaft with stock drivetrain. Couple the drivetrain swap with the lift, and I'm not going to count on the off the shelf parts fitting anymore. Will likely have to get a rear shaft made anyway, so getting a front too isn't that big a deal.

Not worried about the drivetrain here, just trying to figure out the suspension side. I know 32 can be installed in with a torsion bar twist, used to have that. Pretty sure a narrow 33 can be squeezed in, but I don't want to go there. It rode like crap with the bars preloaded like that, then they sagged right back down.

Will be going with the 4" super lift at a minimum. Don't know which is preferred between that and the 5" rough country, or if there is a better option out there than either of those. I kind of hate buying those whole kits when I'll only be using about half of it.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Soo… why not straight axle it if you’re looking to go that high?

 

[JoshT]

Soo… why not straight axle it if you’re looking to go that high?

I might be abandoning the lowered AWD goal, but no need to be a smart ass.

I said in the OP (or meant to) that I wanted minimal fabrication. I said that I was looking for a good ride, not the harshness of a maxed out torsion bar twist. Both of those rule out even the simple version of a SAS.

Also a SAS on a SLA frame is going to end up as a lot more than a 4" lift by the time that you factor in clearance for the differential.

Yes, I want it to be fully capable, but that's fully capable within the realm of a SLA suspension. I understand that SAS, or even TTB are (or can be) stronger than an SLA, but that is a non-issue. I'm not the sort that is going to put the truck in situations where I'm going to be breaking stuff.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I might be abandoning the lowered AWD goal, but no need to be a smart ass.

I said in the OP (or meant to) that I wanted minimal fabrication. I said that I was looking for a good ride, not the harshness of a maxed out torsion bar twist. Both of those rule out even the simple version of a SAS.

Also a SAS on a SLA frame is going to end up as a lot more than a 4" lift by the time that you factor in clearance for the differential.

Yes, I want it to be fully capable, but that's fully capable within the realm of a SLA suspension. I understand that SAS, or even TTB are (or can be) stronger than an SLA, but that is a non-issue. I'm not the sort that is going to put the truck in situations where I'm going to be breaking stuff.

Hey, I haven’t had any coffee yet today, don’t shoot!

I didn’t see you mention anything about a straight axle so I didn’t know if you considered it. Apparently you did consider it and it’s not for you and that’s fine.

 

[JoshT]

Hey, I haven’t had any coffee yet today, don’t shoot!

I didn’t see you mention anything about a straight axle so I didn’t know if you considered it. Apparently you did consider it and it’s not for you and that’s fine.

All good. No sleep last night, don't drink coffee, and not enough caffeine pills available to help. Also sarcasm doesn't carry well in written form, and there was definitely a bit of it there.

Definitely been a consideration, but never for this truck. I've got the husk of a Gen 1 RCSB 2wd sitting in the back yard. Before inheriting the F-150 I was considering a full size l SAS or TTB swap on it. That would be something to trailer to the trail head, not drive regularly even if it could be.

For now I'm wanting to consolidate some (not much) and that build doesn't have a place. Maybe someday, but not now. The F-100 is staying, the 99 is staying, and the F-150 is staying. At 200k miles, the Kia will stay until it dies, the convenience is worth more than I'd make on selling it. Pretty much everything else is going to go.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Do the coil overs...

The couple fellas here that did it speak pretty highly of the results.

Push the factory height specs a little... swallow your no body lift pride a little and do a one inch. I did... well I have all the lift pucks and pieced together hardware to do it. Honestly... just haven't felt good enough to install it.

That will give you everything you need for 33's. And the stance "looks" pretty damn good to me.

Keeping the torsion bars and up sizing to the big bars to carry the bumper... winch and the add on lbs the V8 brings would be the easy button and still be comfortable/capable enough to get yourself acceptable results... IMHO.

Which is basically my overall plan for mine... minus the V8.

 

[JoshT]

Push the factory height specs a little... swallow your no body lift pride a little and do a one inch

Not swallowing anything. There will be no body lift. I don't like them, period.

I mentioned the F-100 going under the knife first. Guess what a large portion of that will be. If you said removing the body lift, you'd be right. It has a home brew 1" suspension lift and a 2" body lift, and once upon a time had 33s. Initially it's getting the body lift removed and running 32s (has those already). Long term it's probably getting a 4-6" suspension lift and going back to 33 or 35s. Of course, on it the lift is primarily for looks. Play it by ear and see how I like the 32s with less lift and go from there, fortunately 32s and no body lift doesn't add anything to total cost. It won't be doing much work or off-roading again, so looks are kind of key.

Other than the body lift, that's pretty much what I have in mind for the Ranger. Coilovers will definitely happen, even if I have to run the T-bars while I collect parts. Ideally the T-bars would never go back in with the lift kit. Selecting rear springs is where I think will be doing the most head scratching. Probably need to use what I have on hand to figure out where I like it, then have a custom spring pack made. Maybe I can use off the shelf parts from skyjacker or other source.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Not swallowing anything. There will be no body lift. I don't like them, period.

I mentioned the F-100 going under the knife first. Guess what a large portion of that will be. If you said removing the body lift, you'd be right. It has a home brew 1" suspension lift and a 2" body lift, and once upon a time had 33s. Initially it's getting the body lift removed and running 32s (has those already). Long term it's probably getting a 4-6" suspension lift and going back to 33 or 35s. Of course, on it the lift is primarily for looks. Play it by ear and see how I like the 32s with less lift and go from there, fortunately 32s and no body lift doesn't add anything to total cost. It won't be doing much work or off-roading again, so looks are kind of key.

Other than the body lift, that's pretty much what I have in mind for the Ranger. Coilovers will definitely happen, even if I have to run the T-bars while I collect parts. Ideally the T-bars would never go back in with the lift kit. Selecting rear springs is where I think will be doing the most head scratching. Probably need to use what I have on hand to figure out where I like it, then have a custom spring pack made. Maybe I can use off the shelf parts from skyjacker or other source.

So, I’m not sure what your dislike for body lifts is exactly. Once upon a time, I didn’t like them, thought it was dumb. My Choptop got a 2” body lift because back when I needed new body mounts all over and new hardware and at the time James Duff was running a deal and the body lift came with the hardware. The access it gave me to stuff was impressive. Enough that I picked up a set of 1” pucks for my 88 and pieced together the hardware for it. Makes things easier to get at.

For the rear, a lift spring for a Ranger is a lift spring for a Ranger.

 

[bobbywalter]

impossible task is impossible.


oem sla is OEM sla. is what it is.

if you do not want to modify it for travel high or low then just live with it.

 

[JoshT]

I tried. Time to get rude.

So, I’m not sure what your dislike for body lifts is exactly. Once upon a time, I didn’t like them, thought it was dumb. My Choptop got a 2” body lift because back when I needed new body mounts all over and new hardware and at the time James Duff was running a deal and the body lift came with the hardware. The access it gave me to stuff was impressive. Enough that I picked up a set of 1” pucks for my 88 and pieced together the hardware for it. Makes things easier to get at.

For the rear, a lift spring for a Ranger is a lift spring for a Ranger.

WTF does it matter why I don't like a body lift? It doesn't. I don't. It isn't required in any to meet my goals. Period. End of body lift discussion.

impossible task is impossible.


oem sla is OEM sla. is what it is.

if you do not want to modify it for travel high or low then just live with it.

A lift kit, larger tires, and coil overs...

What about anything I said here is impossible??? None of it. It might not be the way YOU would build for what YOU do, but that doesn't make it impossible.

I know that it can be done. I'm asking to find out about better parts and alternative kits that I don't know about. Also modifications that can be done or used with the available kits to make them better.

IE: RC and SL both offer bolt in lift kits. Both kits utilize stock torsion bars. Third parties have improved on that with coilover brackets that delete the torsion bars, but you won't find that in any of the lift kit literature. I'm sure that there are other things out there like that.

I'm not seeking out long travel suspension, but I'm also not adverse to it. I don't see a need for the terrains I have and intend to drive, but if it is better product for similar cost, then it makes sense. It's hardly going to be the same price though, because long travel is going to require raised and flared fenders to cover and clear the wider track and new travel. None of this is cost driven, but since isn't much application for long travel in my area, it doesn't make much sense to spend a lot of extra to go there.

 

[bobbywalter]

I am referring to low was unacceptable performance and an impotace for change. and I have swapped 5.3s into lowered rigs and stock arms and geometry is a problem .....but low is workable with offset upper pivots ....

so in my experience high is unacceptable performance with inference of your stated ideal ... the only thing I see work well off road at speed or crawling is LONG arms. you have to change the suspension.

the early lift kits were regularly popping front cv shafts if you were actually wheeling. there were some members here in the early years I regularly wheeled with where we fought those issues. bracket geometry mods helped, and by 2005 or so it was pretty good from bolt on kits...unless you had big tires (over 35) and locked. problems you won't have.

but people were working through diy long arm or refits of bigger components and the on road handling and off road performance was radically improved... early stuff I was around 2001 or so... homemade axle shafts and all.....long before the ford raptor was around.

unlike ttb, the stock sla sux off-road....but is quite a bit better on road..the current iteration of ranger incorporated this capacity....the old stuff works ok....until you put 35s on. or bigger but never gets BETTER lifted..

so. impossible with stock stuff for intended goals ..

you sure as hell can lift it and put bigger tires on it and improve the whole system over STOCK.

stop better ....and handle better. but you have to re arm it

 

[scotts90ranger]

FWIW I had the front diff out of my 4x4 V8 Explorer today and the 4.6L front shaft is at the fully compressed position and has around 1" extension left so you would be able to use that shaft with a lift, the stock shafts need extended because they're limited by the CV end at the transfer case...

 

[JoshT]

I am referring to low was unacceptable performance and an impotace for change. and I have swapped 5.3s into lowered rigs and stock arms and geometry is a problem .....but low is workable with offset upper pivots ....

so in my experience high is unacceptable performance with inference of your stated ideal ... the only thing I see work well off road at speed or crawling is LONG arms. you have to change the suspension.

the early lift kits were regularly popping front cv shafts if you were actually wheeling. there were some members here in the early years I regularly wheeled with where we fought those issues. bracket geometry mods helped, and by 2005 or so it was pretty good from bolt on kits...unless you had big tires (over 35) and locked. problems you won't have.

but people were working through diy long arm or refits of bigger components and the on road handling and off road performance was radically improved... early stuff I was around 2001 or so... homemade axle shafts and all.....long before the ford raptor was around.

unlike ttb, the stock sla sux off-road....but is quite a bit better on road..the current iteration of ranger incorporated this capacity....the old stuff works ok....until you put 35s on. or bigger but never gets BETTER lifted..

so. impossible with stock stuff for intended goals ..

you sure as hell can lift it and put bigger tires on it and improve the whole system over STOCK.

stop better ....and handle better. but you have to re arm it

You probably aren't understanding my goals or driving factors. I probably haven't explained them well, and have no desire or intention to get into the details.

The low was unacceptable because I couldn't get low with the parts that are available for purchase, and I am not interested in building my own one off parts to get there. When I started, there were builders of those components telling me that they would be available, they were full of shit. There is still one that is working on it and will likely have product in the next year. I would have been willing to wait, but life changes.

The performance is unacceptable because of the worn transmission and additional work that is needed to go with the low. Transmission has got to happen either way. Things like a smaller and lighter weight wheels and tires, coil over conversion, regearing to match the new tires and drivetrain. Was not going to spend money on those things until I have the parts in hand to go lower, because if lowering more didn't work out they would be wasted.

I'm not really lifting for the ground clearance and don't NEED bigger tires. The F-150 has more on-road performance (at least as I'll use it) that the Ranger ever will, and I won't be using it in the woods. I'd rather restore the Ranger to hunting truck duties and where ever I intend to spend much time on dirt. The truck is going back up. I had 31s and 32s on the truck in the past. Looked too small to me, but I can partially blame the factory flares for that (they are gone now). With the engine swap I have the power to push a heavier tire like a 33"-35". I think they will look better on it. Did not like the torsion bar twist, that preload killed the ride. Coil-overs are happening regardless. The lift kit will allow me to do it without creating problems with alignment, cv angles, etc.

I do agree that long travel would work better than height for high speed offroad driving. Probably better for rock crawling type stuff too, you would know better than me. There is absolutely no place for high speed offroad driving in my area, and I'd be driving most of the day to get some place where it was much more offroading than forest service roads. I'm not going to do much crawling type stuff anyway. If I were going to build something for that type of stuff it would be dedicated to that and trailered to the location. The thought has crossed my mind to do that with a first gen. I've got a RCSB 2wd in pieces that would be a great candidate for full width axles and a short flat bed, but the need and desire has not happened.

My "100% capable" statement is probably missleading as well. I'm not meaning fully capable in any situation. I'm meaning, no SEMA quality builds. No bluetooth driveshafts. No jungle jym lifts. No components that are going to break if you sneeze on them. If certain components are known problems with available improvements/fixes, I'd prefer to incorporate the improvements/fixes into the build rather than waiting on things to break.

FWIW I had the front diff out of my 4x4 V8 Explorer today and the 4.6L front shaft is at the fully compressed position and has around 1" extension left so you would be able to use that shaft with a lift, the stock shafts need extended because they're limited by the CV end at the transfer case...

Ok, you've got me confused there. Fully compressed and has 1" extension left?

Just not seeing how it can be fully compressed and only have 1" of extension available. Did you use the correct terms there? Of course, I'm also not looking at a 4.6 driveshaft either, so maybe it would make sense then.