'95 doesn't want to start immediately after shut-off

[modelageek]

red97/navets.......lets try and get this back on topic and fix the truck. After you checked all the other suggestions posted( ie. relay, listening for fuel pump to kick on, etc) if the truck still did not run this is what I would do if it was my truck. if possible i would check the fuel pressure at the shrader valve on the fuel rail. it should be about 40. I would also pull the vacuum line of the the fuel pressure regulator and see that there is no fuel in the line. Then the next time it does not start i would check to see if you have spark. if you check and you have a good spark. I would then check the fuel pressure again, you could even push the shrader valve in( be careful not to get sprayed) to see that you have pressure. I am sure someone will correct me if they think i am wrong but in theory if you have a fuel pressure bleed off that can create a vapor lock, thus not letting the system build up pressure, once the truck cools off and the vapor lock disappears the truck could then build up pressure and start........just some thoughts to think about

 

[binks0678]

sorry all i really didnt realize it was a 95 didnt read enough i guess on my 87 there is 2 pumps but i am not sure on the 95

 

[navets]

not sure why, but I haven't been receiving e-mails about these latest posts to this thread..
bummer!

today I FINALLY had/took some time to investigate a bit further into my ignition-issues.
last night I had a conversation with a guy who seemed to think it sounded like an ignition-coil issue and that maybe the coil was getting too warm and needed to cool-down again before it could properly distribute the amperage and send fire to my plugs.

i also need to be completely up front here - i am NOT a knowledgeable Mr. Fix It when it comes to vehicles. I am able to and willing to do almost anything as long as someone helps me with the details and the 'how'! To be completely honest just today I ordered the Haynes manual for my truck. How's that for complete n00b? Forgive me, please.

back to my troubleshooting.

Today I started the truck and let it run for about 5-minutes before shutting it off (it started just fine - as usual) After shutting it off and then immediately trying to restart, she did her normal hesitation and I let off of the ignition to cause my problem. Sure enough, as predicted, couldn't get it to start. I tried in vain to start again and again and when I was sure that it wouldn't happen, I pulled my wife's minivan along side the Ranger and jumped it.

Started on the first try.

There was still some hesitancy in the engine running at a clean idle, but it started, so I was off to get a new battery.

I had the guy check the battery and it reported as needing replaced. Price at Advance was $85, so I jetted down to the 'other' Auto parts store (WalMart) and got a new battery installed for $65. The 'kid' who drove my truck from the bay back to the entrance said, "hey - you need to run some gas-treatment through this thing - it had trouble starting, oh, and your battery light is still on"

I bought a quick $4 bottle of STP and was on my way - I didn't want to offend the kid for not taking his thoughtful advice.

The new battery definitely helped in getting my truck started - I can tell that there's more power, but something is definitely still not right. Currently the truck will start, but barely - if I give it a bit of gas I can get it to choke-through and start and it will idle high for a few seconds and then work through it's hiccup and then get going.

 

[modelageek]

at the top of this thread there is "thread tools" click on it and make sure you are subscribed to the thread and that you are setup for emails. injector cleaner is always a good thing to use. I forget every thing in this thread, have you done a fuel pressure test. have you changed the fuel filter, any maintenance, battery light could be alternator, belt, lose dirty connections.

 

[modelageek]

I just reread your thread and you said that when it would not start you jumped it with the minivan and it fired right up. this indicates an electrical issue, I am wondering if you have a bad alternator! lets see if anyone else jumps with some thoughts. have you by any chance cleaned for engine compartment?

 

[navets]

I am subscribed to the thread - and actually just got an e-mail notifying me of this post! Weird, huh?

Fuel pressure test - no. (could use some help knowing how to do this)
Fuel filter change - no. (can a simpleton like myself change this?)
Maintenance - new battery today.
Battery light - it's weird that it comes on and goes off occasionally - my battery gauge stays right in the center.

 

[navets]

cleaned the engine-compartment - no.

 

[modelageek]

I am subscribed to the thread - and actually just got an e-mail notifying me of this post! Weird, huh?

Fuel pressure test - no. (could use some help knowing how to do this)
Fuel filter change - no. (can a simpleton like myself change this?)
Maintenance - new battery today.
Battery light - it's weird that it comes on and goes off occasionally - my battery gauge stays right in the center.

fuel pressure test are pretty easy. you need a fuel pressure gauge about $40. the filters can be a pain to change but i am sure you can do it. does the battery light come on when it rains.

 

[Bryan22]

I bought a $10 fuel pressure guage at harbor freight, with a little bit of teflon tape and re-assembly, it works great. The manual you ordered will have all the numbers you need to know when testing.

The fuel filter is pretty simple to change, just sometimes the fitting on the outlet side can be a pain. I think on a 95 you'll need a special tool to remove the line on that side. but it's pretty cheap.

Did you clean the cables when you installed the new battery?

 

[modelageek]

on the 95 you are loking for about 40 koeo and Koer. Also pull the vacuum line off the FPR and make sure there is no gas in it

 

[warment]

My brother's MB ML320 did the same thing. His problem was caused by a bad crank position sensor. He only had problems after he drove the car, turned it off, and then tried to start back up immediately.

 

[navets]

warment - that sounds EXACTLY like the same problem I'm having.

can anyone explain why it could be the "crank position sensor" and/or where this is (or will I learn this when I start browsing through my Haynes manual?)

 

[sjr53]

The only issue that I haven't seen mentioned is if the no restart could be from flooding by fuel injectors that aren't fully turning off. When it doesn't restart, try flooring it while you try to restart it. If it reluctantly restarts after a few seconds, the problem isn't with the ignition. If that doesn't help, you need to see if you have spark. If you have spark, then check for fuel pressure at the schraeder valve on the fuel rail. It should squirt out gasoline even with the key off after just having turned on the ignition for 2 seconds. Leaking injectors will bleed off the pressure fairly quickly.

The crank position sensor is behind the crankshaft pulley. A 95 may also have a camshaft position sensor. I think I read that when trouble shooting by brother inlaws dead 91 Ranger with the 2.3L SOHC which ended up being a broken timing belt. A no spark problem is usually with one of the position sensors or the ignition module itself which might be part of the EEC (computer) on your 4 banger. My 2.9's are alot different for the ignition system.

 

[warment]

Just went back and read the thread. Did you test your alternator yet? Take a voltmeter and touch the batt terminals with the truck off. You should get over 12 volts. Then start the truck and touch the batt terminals. You should get over 14 volts. If you dont, then you have a bad alt.

 

[JC 97]

since this thread is from 2010 I don't think the OP is following it anymore.