- Joined
- Jun 10, 2024
- Messages
- 15
- Points
- 101
- Age
- 33
- City
- Cleveland
- Vehicle Year
- 1994
- Engine
- 2.3L
- Transmission
- Manual
1994 Ranger XL RWD 2.3L 5-speed
(sorry, did not take any photos of the job)
Driving to work Thursday morning, mower and yard tools in the back. Clocking in 8hrs at the van seat factory, then two hours mowing lawns; just your typical Thursday for me. I was 2 miles from work when the Ranger started bogging. Felt like I was running out of gas. I just put $25 in the tank that morning, has a little less than half a tank. Even if it was out of gas, I have a jerry can I can top off with.
Managed to roll the truck to the side of the road on the grass. Tried cranking it back up to no success. Truck cranks happily, but nothing more after that. Checked the fuel pump relay. Looks ok? Not any corrosion that I could see. This also was replaced when I swapped the fuel pump earlier this summer, therefore relatively new. Got the truck towed home and started firing the cannon.
Fuel pump was my immediate thought. Same symptoms as the last fuel pump failure. I knew I ordered the cheapest whatever AutoZone had, therefore a premature failure is likely. Ordered a Delphi, which apparently is the religious move to make for Ranger fuel pumps. My bad.
Fast forward to Sunday, I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter (K&N to Motorcraft), and even rewired the fuel pump connector since the clips on the current one broke. Old fuel filter has some debris dirt, but nothing to double take at. No luck. No start.
All fuses are good. Relays “look” good, but were not tested or evaluated any further. Ran to Advanced Auto to rent a fuel pressure gage. Hooked it up and have no fuel pressure on the rail. Nothing on key on, nothing when cranking. When I bleed the Schrader valve, I get a small amount of gas, but nothing under pressure. When I try cranking it again, I get the same amount out.
Power is getting to the fuel pump, verified with a multimeter. Can audibly hear the fuel pump turn on when key is on. Also disconnected the fuel line to the filter and got a decent amount of gas coming out. So I’m pretty confident the fuel pump is working, and it’s pumping fuel. I debated on cranking the engine with the fuel line off of the filter to verify pressure, but that’s asking for trouble unless I have a second set of hands.
My theory is there’s a nasty clog somewhere in the line. I’m able to disconnect the fuel lines from the rear pretty easily. But the ones that run to the fuel rail are a nightmare. They’re the old style spring loaded fasteners. 32 year old fuel connections. Spring lock coupler, to be exact.
That coupler is corroded to hell. Lots of rust and God knows what else. I hit it with some Deep Creep and attempted to remove the connection with the fuel line disconnect tool. It didn’t go well. Of course, the working area is tight. And that tool barely gets in to the groove to move that spring.
I also checked the inertia switch under the glovebox. Button was not tripped. Did not check any wiring in the inertia switch. Dumb question, but if the switch was tripped would the truck even crank? If so, I may need to go back there and double check everything.
Verified spark on cylinder 1 as well.
So you’re brought up to speed, now it’s time to figure out what to do next.
Do I leave the spring lock coupler alone, and try to clear out the blockage from the rear? I can disconnect the line from the output port of the filter, back flush the line with brake clean.
I can keep working on the spring lock coupler and pray it comes apart with no collateral damage. Do a full flush with brake clean and compressed air.
I read someone fed straight Seafoam in to the lines and essentially let that break up whatever is blocking. Not crazy about this idea.
I can see if I can cut the lines at the fittings of the spring lock coupler. Buy new coupler and reinstall. Again, tight spaces. And the nylon hoses from the rail to this connection are made of unobtanium and are very hard to find.
I may also be wrong in my theory of a blockage. And may need to do further investigation in to the electrical side of things.
SIGH
I hope that’s not the case. I should be verifying all suspect components. I should jump the pump relay and see if I can get it to kick on. I think I’ve done that once in my life. I’ve been combing through forums learning about how to use OBD-I on this truck. I can also try new relays. Some forum posts talk about issues with the ICM. Haven’t dove in to that yet. I know I need to check all grounds, but I kind of don’t understand what that means.
Electrical is my weak spot in wrenching. So any and all direction and motivation I can get from yous guys is appreciated.
(sorry, did not take any photos of the job)
Driving to work Thursday morning, mower and yard tools in the back. Clocking in 8hrs at the van seat factory, then two hours mowing lawns; just your typical Thursday for me. I was 2 miles from work when the Ranger started bogging. Felt like I was running out of gas. I just put $25 in the tank that morning, has a little less than half a tank. Even if it was out of gas, I have a jerry can I can top off with.
Managed to roll the truck to the side of the road on the grass. Tried cranking it back up to no success. Truck cranks happily, but nothing more after that. Checked the fuel pump relay. Looks ok? Not any corrosion that I could see. This also was replaced when I swapped the fuel pump earlier this summer, therefore relatively new. Got the truck towed home and started firing the cannon.
Fuel pump was my immediate thought. Same symptoms as the last fuel pump failure. I knew I ordered the cheapest whatever AutoZone had, therefore a premature failure is likely. Ordered a Delphi, which apparently is the religious move to make for Ranger fuel pumps. My bad.
Fast forward to Sunday, I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter (K&N to Motorcraft), and even rewired the fuel pump connector since the clips on the current one broke. Old fuel filter has some debris dirt, but nothing to double take at. No luck. No start.
All fuses are good. Relays “look” good, but were not tested or evaluated any further. Ran to Advanced Auto to rent a fuel pressure gage. Hooked it up and have no fuel pressure on the rail. Nothing on key on, nothing when cranking. When I bleed the Schrader valve, I get a small amount of gas, but nothing under pressure. When I try cranking it again, I get the same amount out.
Power is getting to the fuel pump, verified with a multimeter. Can audibly hear the fuel pump turn on when key is on. Also disconnected the fuel line to the filter and got a decent amount of gas coming out. So I’m pretty confident the fuel pump is working, and it’s pumping fuel. I debated on cranking the engine with the fuel line off of the filter to verify pressure, but that’s asking for trouble unless I have a second set of hands.
My theory is there’s a nasty clog somewhere in the line. I’m able to disconnect the fuel lines from the rear pretty easily. But the ones that run to the fuel rail are a nightmare. They’re the old style spring loaded fasteners. 32 year old fuel connections. Spring lock coupler, to be exact.
That coupler is corroded to hell. Lots of rust and God knows what else. I hit it with some Deep Creep and attempted to remove the connection with the fuel line disconnect tool. It didn’t go well. Of course, the working area is tight. And that tool barely gets in to the groove to move that spring.
I also checked the inertia switch under the glovebox. Button was not tripped. Did not check any wiring in the inertia switch. Dumb question, but if the switch was tripped would the truck even crank? If so, I may need to go back there and double check everything.
Verified spark on cylinder 1 as well.
So you’re brought up to speed, now it’s time to figure out what to do next.
Do I leave the spring lock coupler alone, and try to clear out the blockage from the rear? I can disconnect the line from the output port of the filter, back flush the line with brake clean.
I can keep working on the spring lock coupler and pray it comes apart with no collateral damage. Do a full flush with brake clean and compressed air.
I read someone fed straight Seafoam in to the lines and essentially let that break up whatever is blocking. Not crazy about this idea.
I can see if I can cut the lines at the fittings of the spring lock coupler. Buy new coupler and reinstall. Again, tight spaces. And the nylon hoses from the rail to this connection are made of unobtanium and are very hard to find.
I may also be wrong in my theory of a blockage. And may need to do further investigation in to the electrical side of things.
SIGH
I hope that’s not the case. I should be verifying all suspect components. I should jump the pump relay and see if I can get it to kick on. I think I’ve done that once in my life. I’ve been combing through forums learning about how to use OBD-I on this truck. I can also try new relays. Some forum posts talk about issues with the ICM. Haven’t dove in to that yet. I know I need to check all grounds, but I kind of don’t understand what that means.
Electrical is my weak spot in wrenching. So any and all direction and motivation I can get from yous guys is appreciated.
