93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I had to take the heads off of my 5.0 because I broke bolts. Easier to move a head around to work on extracting bolts than a whole motor. I went ahead and cleaned off the carbon plus lapped the valves while it was apart but my original plan had been to leave the heads on and just do valve seals. I have a leak down tester so I can put pressure into a cylinder to hold the valves up while doing that.

 

[bobbywalter]

if i am doing seals i tend to use hose or rope method.

 

[scotts90ranger]

If you're lucky and your compression tester has the same quick connect fitting as your air compressor just take the valve core out of the end of the compression tester hose (very important step lol) and air up the cylinder (on TDC or BDC) and change the seals that way if doing it with the heads on.

 

[bobbywalter]

at least lock the engine in the piston up position when using air..i have a tool for the LS that makes that easy....pops on the starter holes and grabs the ring gear...i have made similar tools for the windsors though with a strap and a weld nut......pulling seals has dropped more than one valve wrasslin around on me..

.just doing a spring swap air is way easier....


but for seals...the blue soft fuel line tends to be my favorite go to now over rope.......it is a pia compared to air but you can get stupid on seal extraction and not worry about deep diving for valves.

if you plan on spinning the engine or a future cam/rocker ratio upgrade those springs definitely need replaced...

but for your goals she may be just fine...you will be fairly conservative with rpm i would guess.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

From what I gather even new Ford valve springs were not super great.

I used this kit on mine, seems to work well.

https://lmr.com/item/TFS-2500100/Trick-Flow-50l-302-Mustang-Valve-Springs-Upgrade-Kit

 

[Curious Hound]

A little bit of progress today.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I wonder how close the Explorer driveshaft will be to work in your truck...

Explorer driveshaft was too short for mine, with your t-case and wheelbase it may be close.

 

[scotts90ranger]

weird they had a dual cardan front shaft on the earlier ones, my '98 and '00 had/have an actual CV joint at the T case...

 

[Curious Hound]

Drive shafts will be one of the last things I figure out, once the engine, transmission and transfer case are installed. I haven't measured lengths of those components yet. The rear drive shaft will need to have the slip joint that slides into the t-case, whereas the Explorer AWD case had bolt-on flanges for both shafts. I'll likely be mixing and matching u-joints/flanges/slip joints/ double cardans and whatever else it takes.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Drive shafts will be one of the last things I figure out, once the engine, transmission and transfer case are installed. I haven't measured lengths of those components yet. The rear drive shaft will need to have the slip joint that slides into the t-case, whereas the Explorer AWD case had bolt-on flanges for both shafts. I'll likely be mixing and matching u-joints/flanges/slip joints/ double cardans and whatever else it takes.

Ah, I forgot you had a slip yoke.

It shouldn't be hard to find a 4wd F-150 shaft to shorten though.

 

[Curious Hound]

Ah, I forgot you had a slip yoke.

It shouldn't be hard to find a 4wd F-150 shaft to shorten though.

If the length works out, I'll swap the flange on the Explorer shaft with the slip yoke for the new t-case. I almost brought home the shaft from the F150 my t-case came out of. But the junkyard forklift mangled it.