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89 BII


This thread:

http://www.broncoiicorral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80249

makes it sound like it will work. You may have to use Butyl tape to seal it. DO NOT USE SILICONE! I'm not sure, but I think you'll have to use the aluminum trim from your parts truck.

You'll just have to get the old one out, look at the part that was bolted in and see if you can make it work. Good luck!
I'm not the one putting the new one in, so I'm just gonna let the glass shop worry about all that. I'll tell them what's going on though. The metal trim from the part truck looks like a curly fry lol. Thanks for the luck, I'm sure gonna need it!

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Got some good news today... Got the window fixed. Now to tell the story. I went out the other day and pulled the window off the trashed 86, hoping the window shop would be able to make it work like they said they could. Left early this morning to bring it in, but the guy said the window wouldn't work, which I thought from the beginning. So I had to go back to the house and pull a window off the 87, which is bolted in. Thankfully that one came out fine and went back in fine.

Hopefully this Thursday I can get to the compression test and tune up if the test goes well.

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Went by O'Reillys on my way home. picked up a dist cap, rotor, and new plugs (motorcraft). They didn't have motorcraft plug wires so I'll order those and install them later. The ones in it now aren't in bad condition. Also rented a compression tester. Maybe that'll fix my power and gas mileage issue. Want to get it fixed before doing the a/c, I know that the a/c robs power. Anything else y'all would recommend me check while the plugs and stuff are out? Thanks.

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Edit: not doing the plugs and stuff until tomorrow sometime.
 
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Sounds good. Remember to remove all of the plugs before testing each cylinder. That makes sure that if you have a bad head gasket or a sticking valve, compression can't bleed from one cylinder to the other.

Also, remember to inspect the plugs. They should all look similar. If any look different, it may indicate a problem. If you are unsure if they look good, post up some pics.
 
I am here to admit defeat. Man oh man, how does anyone with normal sized hands replace those plugs!?
I got the 3 driver side plugs out (I know those are #4,5,6; just the side I started on for some reason), but the #3 plug was impossible. I could just barely fit my hand down there but there was no way for a ratchet with a deep socket. I was running out of time so I put it all back together. I put new plugs in #4,5,&6 because they were already out. I got a pic of the 3 I managed to pull out. Didn't have time to even attempt the cap and rotor.
66c976823be6ea2f5d8b402059b42c41.jpg


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It's been a couple of years since I did my plugs but I don't remember them being that hard to change. My go-to setup is plug socket-swivel-short or really long extension.

Did you pull the air filter housing for more room? That might help.

I'm curious as to how your AC repair goes. I just did mine. I shotgunned the whole system and replaced the condenser, evaporator, hoses and compressor.
 
...but the #3 plug was impossible.

The #3 plug is accessible from the right-front fender (through the opening right above the shock).
 
It's been a couple of years since I did my plugs but I don't remember them being that hard to change. My go-to setup is plug socket-swivel-short or really long extension.

Did you pull the air filter housing for more room? That might help.

I'm curious as to how your AC repair goes. I just did mine. I shotgunned the whole system and replaced the condenser, evaporator, hoses and compressor.
I had 1 long and one short extension but no swivel. I also don't have a plug socket, just a 5/8 deep socket. Didn't think about pulling the airbox, I'll try that.

I have some time this morning to work a little bit, I'm not gonna try to do the compression test but at least see if I can get the other 3 new plugs in.

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Edit: Just remembered I forgot to put anti sieze on the 3 plugs I replaced, they shouldn't take that long to pull out. Maybe I'll have time for a compression test, I'll just have to see.
 
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The #3 plug is accessible from the right-front fender (through the opening right above the shock).
Thanks, hopefully that makes it easier.

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I'm here to once again confess failure. I was able to get to the #3 plug by going through my fender well. Using a 5/8" deep socket, swivel, 2 extensions, and a ratchet I was able to break the plug loose, but for some ungoldy reason I decided to do something stupid. Instead of just loosening it fully, taking it out, and putting the new one in; I decided I didn't have enough time and just tightened the old one back up. I'm not sure if I would've had time for the compression test, but I had plenty of time to replace that plug. One thing I noticed with the old plugs is that they were wet with something. I went and sniffed them but couldn't identify the fluid. When I pulled one of the new plugs back out for anti sieze, it also had the fluid on it. After taking a few whiffs I came to the conclusion it was gasoline. From what I've read, that means my engine is running rich, which would correspond with the other issues I'm having. You can see what I'm talking about if you look at the photo of the old plugs in post #185. Not sure it makes a difference, but might as well say it. Yesterday right before I started removing the plugs, I ran the engine for about 10 seconds to move my BII, same thing to move it back after I was done yesterday, I let the fuel pump run for a few seconds before starting up both times. Didn't move it today though, so any fluid on the new plugs would've been from yesterday.
Going to drive it for a little bit, I'll let y'all know how it goes.

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Just drove about 35 miles, half highway and half city. Sad to say there's no change in gas mileage or power.

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Just drove about 35 miles, half highway and half city. Sad to say there's no change in gas mileage or power.

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New plugs cap, rotor and wires?

With wet plugs it could be leaky injectors, that wouldn't be a shock. When I got mine I added fuel injector cleaner to every tankful for several tanks. I like the Startron stuff, it treats fuel and acts as a stabilizer as well.
 
New plugs cap, rotor and wires?

With wet plugs it could be leaky injectors, that wouldn't be a shock. When I got mine I added fuel injector cleaner to every tankful for several tanks. I like the Startron stuff, it treats fuel and acts as a stabilizer as well.
No, I didn't get to the cap and rotor. Still waiting for the wires to come in. I'll look for injector cleaner on my way home. Thanks.

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Well that was an interesting drive home. Something changed, but I'm not sure what and how bad it might be. Started her up to head home and she started just fine. I noticed a change in the idle though. Usually the idle is "smooth" I guess you'd say but this time it was different. I wouldn't say it was bad, but it seemed faster than normal. Not really sure how to explain.
As soon as I got to the road I noticed the decrease in power. Had the thing floored and was barely moving. Made it to the highway (20 miles city driving) and really noticed the power difference. I have no clue what could've caused such a change just from sitting for 7 hours...

Just remembered I forgot to pick up the injector cleaner.
 
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Well that was an interesting drive home. Something changed, but I'm not sure what and how bad it might be. Started her up to head home and she started just fine. I noticed a change in the idle though. Usually the idle is "smooth" I guess you'd say but this time it was different. I wouldn't say it was bad, but it seemed faster than normal. Not really sure how to explain.
As soon as I got to the road I noticed the decrease in power. Had the thing floored and was barely moving. Made it to the highway (20 miles city driving) and really noticed the power difference. I have no clue what could've caused such a change just from sitting for 7 hours...

Just remembered I forgot to pick up the injector cleaner.

My guess is you have a big vacuum leak, the good news is that it should easy to find now.
 

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