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89 BII


To really figure out what the problem is, you're gonna have to do a few tests. It could just be a very worn out engine. So I would start by assessing the overall health of the engine.

A compression test will give you a good sense of that. Again, you can rent a compression tester from your local auto parts store. And by rent, I really mean borrow, because when you bring it back to them, they give you ALL of your money back. It's really great that they do this.

Testing compression is easy. First remove the fuse for your fuel pump and then start the truck. It will run for a second and then die. That's good. We're removing the fuel from the fuel system so the engine can't start. Leave the fuse out and remove ALL of your spark plugs. This is a good time to inspect your plugs. Plugs can tell you a lot about what's going on inside your engine. NGK has an excellent cheat sheet on their website here.

Now that the plugs are out, use the correct sized adapter for the compression tester and screw it into the first spark plug hole. Screw the compression tester into the adapter. Crank the engine for 5 seconds then view the compression tester. Write down the value and and then repeat this process for each of the remaining cylinders. Post the results here. Generally, you want to be somewhere around 120 PSI and all cylinders should be roughly the same. If you have one (or more) that are more than 10 PSI lower, then you have a hurt motor.

If you do find a cylinder (or two, or three...) that are lower, there's a couple places that compression could be going and there's more tests we can do to find out what's causing it.

I know I've thrown a lot at you today. I would do the compression test first. It's easy to do and tells us a lot about the condition of your motor and will help us determine where to go from there.
 
To really figure out what the problem is, you're gonna have to do a few tests. It could just be a very worn out engine. So I would start by assessing the overall health of the engine.

A compression test will give you a good sense of that. Again, you can rent a compression tester from your local auto parts store. And by rent, I really mean borrow, because when you bring it back to them, they give you ALL of your money back. It's really great that they do this.

Testing compression is easy. First remove the fuse for your fuel pump and then start the truck. It will run for a second and then die. That's good. We're removing the fuel from the fuel system so the engine can't start. Leave the fuse out and remove ALL of your spark plugs. This is a good time to inspect your plugs. Plugs can tell you a lot about what's going on inside your engine. NGK has an excellent cheat sheet on their website here.

Now that the plugs are out, use the correct sized adapter for the compression tester and screw it into the first spark plug hole. Screw the compression tester into the adapter. Crank the engine for 5 seconds then view the compression tester. Write down the value and and then repeat this process for each of the remaining cylinders. Post the results here. Generally, you want to be somewhere around 120 PSI and all cylinders should be roughly the same. If you have one (or more) that are more than 10 PSI lower, then you have a hurt motor.

If you do find a cylinder (or two, or three...) that are lower, there's a couple places that compression could be going and there's more tests we can do to find out what's causing it.

I know I've thrown a lot at you today. I would do the compression test first. It's easy to do and tells us a lot about the condition of your motor and will help us determine where to go from there.
Ok, I appreciate all the help on this stuff. I really wouldn't know what to do if it weren't for you and others on the forum. I'll test it tomorrow if I can and come back with the results.
I always told myself that the engine must just be worn out, but I'm not sure. Can't tell how many miles it actually has on it because it rolls over at 100k, right now it's at 24k.

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"if that gives you the willies" that made me lol. Where might I find the tfi module on my BII?
By vacuum booster do you mean brake booster? I checked that and the hose looked good, not sure about a grommet.

I thought you'd like that pun. Yes I meant the brake booster. The grommet is on the booster, the vacuum hose connects to a check valve and that plugs into a grommet.
The TFI is mounted on the distributor, it's also called an ICM. It is the piece with wiring connector.
 
I thought you'd like that pun. Yes I meant the brake booster. The grommet is on the booster, the vacuum hose connects to a check valve and that plugs into a grommet.
The TFI is mounted on the distributor, it's also called an ICM. It is the piece with wiring connector.
Does the vacuum hose go into the back of the brake booster?
I'll see if I can find the TFI.
Just woke up, it's 7am so I'll go check a little later, Thanks.

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To really figure out what the problem is, you're gonna have to do a few tests. It could just be a very worn out engine. So I would start by assessing the overall health of the engine.

A compression test will give you a good sense of that. Again, you can rent a compression tester from your local auto parts store. And by rent, I really mean borrow, because when you bring it back to them, they give you ALL of your money back. It's really great that they do this.

Testing compression is easy. First remove the fuse for your fuel pump and then start the truck. It will run for a second and then die. That's good. We're removing the fuel from the fuel system so the engine can't start. Leave the fuse out and remove ALL of your spark plugs. This is a good time to inspect your plugs. Plugs can tell you a lot about what's going on inside your engine. NGK has an excellent cheat sheet on their website here.

Now that the plugs are out, use the correct sized adapter for the compression tester and screw it into the first spark plug hole. Screw the compression tester into the adapter. Crank the engine for 5 seconds then view the compression tester. Write down the value and and then repeat this process for each of the remaining cylinders. Post the results here. Generally, you want to be somewhere around 120 PSI and all cylinders should be roughly the same. If you have one (or more) that are more than 10 PSI lower, then you have a hurt motor.

If you do find a cylinder (or two, or three...) that are lower, there's a couple places that compression could be going and there's more tests we can do to find out what's causing it.

I know I've thrown a lot at you today. I would do the compression test first. It's easy to do and tells us a lot about the condition of your motor and will help us determine where to go from there.
Would I be able to use this compression tester?
http://m.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/...ression-tester-gauge-set/424906_0_0?location=
Not sure if the little adapter fits my plug hole (lol).
Also, I was looking yesterday and some say that you need to hold the gas pedal all the way down while cranking for the compression test? Do you usually do this or should I not?

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Does the vacuum hose go into the back of the brake booster?
I'll see if I can find the TFI.
Just woke up, it's 7am so I'll go check a little later, Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
On mine, the front at the top.
 
Ran into some problems... Pawpaw decided to throw some rocks up while cutting grass lol.

Just noticed I'm in the reflection, I'm not that fat, the glass distorts it haha
3a95b9840b7745fbd04aa9690d6f6603.jpg


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Ouch, I don't know if you can still get those Windows.
 
Ouch, I don't know if you can still get those Windows.
Yeah I called the local glass repair shop and none of their suppliers had one but she said she would search around to see what she could do. I've been thinking, we have 2 BIIs in the backyard, a trashed out 86 and the 87 I've been working on. Did they use the same glass on the 86 as they did on 89? Not sure how old the glass is though, so the trick would be getting it out without shattering it.

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Would I be able to use this compression tester?
http://m.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/...ression-tester-gauge-set/424906_0_0?location=
Not sure if the little adapter fits my plug hole (lol).
Also, I was looking yesterday and some say that you need to hold the gas pedal all the way down while cranking for the compression test? Do you usually do this or should I not?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Yep that's the one I usually rent from them. It works fine. I've never heard of having to keep the gas pedal to the floor. Just make sure you pull the fuse for the fuel pump and start it till it dies (or start it and then pull the fuse) and remove ALL of the spark plugs before testing.

Sorry about your window! That sucks! I don't know what year they changed it but early B-IIs had their glass glued in. Later ones had them bolted in. I *think* the later version had rubber surrounding the window and earlier one's had metal or plastic. Don't hold me to that though. I'm working off a memory of a memory here. lol
 
Yep that's the one I usually rent from them. It works fine. I've never heard of having to keep the gas pedal to the floor. Just make sure you pull the fuse for the fuel pump and start it till it dies (or start it and then pull the fuse) and remove ALL of the spark plugs before testing.

Sorry about your window! That sucks! I don't know what year they changed it but early B-IIs had their glass glued in. Later ones had them bolted in. I *think* the later version had rubber surrounding the window and earlier one's had metal or plastic. Don't hold me to that though. I'm working off a memory of a memory here. lol
They hold the pedal to the floor to keep the throttle open and allow more airflow into the engine. Not sure if it makes a difference. Won't be able to do a compression test until the window gets fixed, I'll keep y'all updated, thanks.

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Still been fighting with the broken window. eBay ones cost upwards of $300 so I decided to take a crack at pulling one off the 86. I got it off without damaging it (hopefully).

Ray, the 86 had the metal trim around it, had little metal tabs with tiny nails all around it, had glue all around it, and then black gooey stuff (not sure what it's called.. gasket maker?) all around it. Not sure if that means it's an earlier, newer, or both window. I believe in 2 genders so can't be both lol.

Still have to knock the old shattered window outta the 89, doing that in a bit.

Does anyone know of any products to get all the black gooey stuff off of the glass? I scraped all of the thick stuff off, but there's still a thin layer that I can't get off by scraping. Thanks everyone.

7ac11908879d3ef99eb368a096b5f8c1.jpg
55cde980651da0854610264e96f12c92.jpg


Ole Betsy hanging in the background.
 
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Goo gone usually works pretty good. Acetone will do it but I don't know if it will damage (etch) the glass. If you try it, try on a spot you won't see to make sure it doesn't make the glass hazy.

Yeah, that's the "older" version of the glass. I'm afraid your 89 probably has the "newer" version that bolts in. I don't know if you can just glue the other one in or if there's some way to transfer the part that has the bolts on it over to the other glass. Guess you'll find out when you get the broken glass out!
 
Goo gone usually works pretty good. Acetone will do it but I don't know if it will damage (etch) the glass. If you try it, try on a spot you won't see to make sure it doesn't make the glass hazy.

Yeah, that's the "older" version of the glass. I'm afraid your 89 probably has the "newer" version that bolts in. I don't know if you can just glue the other one in or if there's some way to transfer the part that has the bolts on it over to the other glass. Guess you'll find out when you get the broken glass out!
Well I got all of the loose glass knocked out, it's all over the concrete and inside my vehicle lol. Its held in by bolts... Do the bolts actually go through the glass? The glass company that we're planning to use looked it up the other day and all years of the BII used the same model number glass.

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This thread:

http://www.broncoiicorral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80249

makes it sound like it will work. You may have to use Butyl tape to seal it. DO NOT USE SILICONE! I'm not sure, but I think you'll have to use the aluminum trim from your parts truck.

You'll just have to get the old one out, look at the part that was bolted in and see if you can make it work. Good luck!
 

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